Spiny Tailed Gecko on cork bark in a dry terrarium

Geckos · Care guide

Spiny Tailed Gecko Care Guide

Strophurus ssp.

Arboreal Australian geckos (Strophurus ssp., about 5″) that live in dry, semi-desert shrubs and trees. Glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and T5 12% UV, cork bark and small multi-height branches, dry substrate, and an insect-led diet with 4:1 dust.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Probe target

    78 °F

    26 °C · cool end · opposite heat

  • Night target

    ~68 °F

    ~20 °C · ~10 °F drop

  • Adult size

    12×12×18″

    Glass tank · ~5″ animal

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    On top of mesh lid

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Arboreal Australian geckos (~5″) from dry, semi-desert habitats. Glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and T5 12% UV, cork bark, small multi-height branches, foliage for cover, dry substrate, and a cool-end water bowl.

Adult minimum size

12″ W × 12″ D × 18″ H

Compact glass terrarium for a small arboreal gecko (~5″). Heat dome and T5 12% UV sit on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Cork bark and small climbing branches at different heights (shrubs and trees)
  • Foliage for cover and additional hiding places
  • Heat dome on the mesh lid (warm back corner) + cool-end probe opposite heat
  • Cool-end water bowl (de-chlorinated water); moisture also from live foods

Substrate

  • Dry substrate: pelleted straw, coarse sand (not fine), or dry bio soil
  • They live in dry, semi-desert areas — avoid fine mineral sands that raise impaction risk
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 12″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 12″) · mesh lid · cork & branches · foliage · cool water bowl · dry substrate

Example Spiny Tailed Gecko glass terrarium front view at 12 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Spiny Tailed Gecko glass terrarium at 12 by 18 inch proportions with 12 inch depth. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the warm left-back corner. A T5 12% UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid. Cork bark and small climbing branches fill multiple heights, with a vertical branch under the heat leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side. Foliage provides cover. A water bowl sits on the cool-end floor. Substrate is dry pelleted straw, coarse sand, or dry bio soil. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 12″ W × 12″ D × 18″ H MESH LID 18″ tall 12″ wide · depth 12″ · height 18″ Cork & branches Foliage Water bowl Dry straw / coarse sand WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 12″ wide × 18″ tall (2:3); depth 12″ — adult minimum
  • Mesh lid — heat dome and T5 12% UV tube sit on top of the mesh
  • Cork & branches — cork bark and small multi-height branches (shrubs and trees)
  • Foliage — cover and additional hiding places
  • Water bowl — cool end for drinking (treated water)
  • Substrate — dry pelleted straw, coarse sand, or dry bio soil

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe at cool-end back corner

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and cool-end thermostat probe Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests at the cool-end back corner so cool-end temperature can be set to the ideal daytime probe of 78 degrees Fahrenheit. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome Back corner · cold end WARM COOL Cool-end probe ideal: 78 °F (26 °C) day · ~68 °F (20 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; rests at the cool-end back corner to monitor cold-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Cool-end probe 78 °F opposite the heat, T5 12% UVB on the mesh lid, heat about 12 h winter / up to 16 h summer, and a ~10 °F night drop to ~68 °F.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 78 °F (26 °C) cool end · opposite heat creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 78 °F (26 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~68 °F (~20 °C) · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Heat winter: about 12 hours
  • Heat summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • UV: about 9–10 h winter · 14–16 h summer (daylight hours)
  • Night: about 10 °F drop to ~68 °F (20 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the gecko

UVB lighting

  • T5 12% UV tube on the mesh lid
  • Sits across the top of the mesh lid — never under
  • UV about 9–10 h winter · 14–16 h summer
  • Nocturnal but sleep in sunlight — UV remains important

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — T5 12% UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: T5 12% UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Spiny Tailed Gecko glass terrarium with a mesh lid. The T5 tube with 12 percent UV output sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. A heat dome also sits on top of the mesh at the warm end. Heat photoperiod is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. UV runs about 9 to 10 hours in winter and 14 to 16 hours in summer. FLOOR MESH LID T5 12% UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD · HEAT (UV 9–10 h / 14–16 h) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • T5 12% UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Heat photoperiod — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer · UV about 9–10 h winter / 14–16 h summer
  • Nocturnal but UV still needed — they sleep in sunlight; T5 12% sits on the mesh lid

Dry / semi-desert habitat

  • Native to dry, semi-desert areas of Australia
  • Use dry substrate — pelleted straw, coarse sand, or dry bio soil
  • Cool-end water bowl for drinking; moisture also comes from live foods
  • No target RH % on the care sheet — do not run a high-humidity rainforest setup
First power-up tip

Always have the dimming thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 78 °F (26 °C) for daytime once dome and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dust every feed, and gut-loaded insects. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
About 5–10 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new geckos — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • About 5–10 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Insect staples and occasional treats (waxworms, morios in moderation)
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from a cool-side water bowl
  • Moisture also comes from live foods — do not worry if you rarely see them drinking
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling. They may display (tail squirt, mouth gape) when stressed — stay calm.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the gecko to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the gecko becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size tank does a Spiny Tailed Gecko need?

Adult minimum is 12″ wide × 18″ high × 12″ deep glass terrarium. Spiny-tailed geckos (Strophurus ssp.) average about 5″ full length. Provide cork bark and small multi-height branches, plus foliage for cover. Use a dry substrate such as pelleted straw, coarse sand, or dry bio soil — not fine mineral sand. Heat dome and T5 12% UV sit on top of the mesh lid. Cool-end probe rests at the back corner opposite the heat. Place a water bowl on the cool side.

How do I set heat and probe for a Spiny Tailed Gecko?

Place the heat dome on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses left-back). Feed the dimming thermostat sensor through the opposite lid nodule so it rests at the cool-end back corner to monitor cold-end temperature. Ideal daytime temperature at the probe point is 78 °F (26 °C), creating a gradient from the cool end to the basking spot under the dome. At night, reduce about 10 °F to around 68 °F (20 °C). Recommended temps only apply with this placement.

What UV and photoperiod do Spiny Tailed Geckos need?

They are nocturnal but sleep in sunlight, so UV is important. Use a T5 unit with 12% UV output sitting across the mesh lid of the tank. UV should match daylight hours — about 9–10 hours in winter, increasing to 14–16 hours in summer. Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.

When can I start handling my Spiny Tailed Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. They can squirt a harmless but smelly fluid from tail glands and gape with a brightly coloured mouth when defensive — handle calmly and give space if they display. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What and how often do Spiny Tailed Geckos eat?

Insect-led diet. Use the method of 5 (five insects at a time until eaten). Once settled, 5–10 crickets daily is common. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

Next steps

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