Cave Gecko (Goniurosaurus) in a humid glass tank setup

Geckos · Care guide

Cave Gecko Care Guide

Goniurosaurus ssp.

Nocturnal/crepuscular geckos from Japan and China, growing to about 6–8 inches. Cooler glass-tank setup with a heat mat (probe 74 °F), terrestrial Shadedweller UV, humidity 60–70%, cork hides, and an insect-led diet.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Hot-end probe

    74 °F

    23 °C · at the heat mat

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~64 °F · ~18 °C

  • Humidity

    60–70%

    Spray 1–2× · night spike

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Terrestrial form

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Mainly terrestrial geckos that need cooler temperatures — glass tanks suit them better than wooden vivariums. Cork hides, some fallen branches, foliage, humid substrate, heat mat on the back glass, and terrestrial Shadedweller UV on the mesh lid. Adult minimum is 18″ × 18″ × 18″.

Adult minimum size

18″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Glass tank. Adults grow to around 6–8 inches total length. Warmth from a heat mat on the back of the glass; Shadedweller UV on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Cork bark hides — mainly ground-dwelling (they climb only a little)
  • Some fallen branches for enrichment and limited climbing
  • Foliage for aesthetics and extra hiding places
  • Cool-side water bowl — Reptisafe or bottled water
  • Heat mat on the back of the glass + hot-end probe with the mat

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix — coir and coarse orchid bark
  • Bio substrates and full bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew also work well

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and tank

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 18″ × 18″ (depth 18″) · heat mat on back glass · cork hides · fallen branches · foliage · cool water bowl

Example Cave Gecko glass tank front view at 18 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Cave Gecko glass tank at 18 by 18 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. A heat mat is fixed on the back of the glass on the warm left side with the thermostat probe at the hot end. Cork bark hides, some fallen branches, foliage for cover, humidity-retentive coir and orchid bark substrate, and a water bowl on the cool-end floor. A terrestrial Shadedweller UV unit sits on the mesh lid. Adult minimum 18 by 18 by 18 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · SINGLE · FRONT 1:1 18″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H SHADEDWELLER UV MESH LID HEAT MAT 18″ tall 18″ cube Heat mat Branches Cork hides Foliage Water bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM / MAT COOL
  • Adult minimum 18″ wide × 18″ tall × 18″ deep (1:1 front)
  • Heat mat — on the back of the glass at the warm end (no heat bulb needed)
  • Probe — hot end with the mat; daytime target 74 °F
  • Cork & branches — hides plus enrichment to climb over
  • Water bowl — cool side; also moisture from live food and spray
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat mat on the back glass · probe at the hot end with the mat

Tank top-down: heat mat on back glass and hot-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass tank from above. Heat mat is fixed on the back wall toward the left warm side. Thermostat sensor enters from the lid and rests at the back where the mat is so the hot-end temperature can be monitored at about 74 degrees Fahrenheit by day. BACK FRONT Heat mat Probe · hot end Day target 74 °F WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the tank · mat on the back glass · probe at the warm end

Tank front view: heat mat on back glass and hot-end probe Front elevation. Heat mat is on the back of the glass on the warm left side. Thermostat probe hangs down the back at the hot end beside the mat. Daytime probe point is about 74 degrees Fahrenheit, creating a gradient toward cooler room ambient. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE MAT Thermostat probe Hot end · with the mat Day 74 °F (23 °C) Heat mat On back of glass WARM COOL
  • Heat mat — on the back of the glass tank at the warm end (mat thermostat)
  • Probe — at the hot end with the mat; day target about 74 °F (23 °C)

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool heat-mat setup with a hot-end probe of 74 °F, terrestrial Shadedweller UV, and humidity about 60–70% with a night spike.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 74 °F (23 °C) hot end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool / ambient Room ambient (Background)
Hot end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 74 °F (23 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~64 °F (~18 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: drop thermostat by ~10 °F to around 64 °F (18 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the gecko

UVB lighting

  • Terrestrial Shadedweller UV — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles
  • Sits on top of the mesh lid — never under the lid
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule
  • Nocturnal animals still benefit from low-level UV during the day

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass tank mesh lid — Shadedweller UV sits on top of the lid · heat from mat (no basking bulb) · ~12 h winter / up to 16 h summer

Glass tank: Shadedweller UV sits on top of the mesh lid; heat from mat on back glass Front view of a Cave Gecko glass tank with a mesh lid. A terrestrial Shadedweller UV unit sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. Warmth comes from a heat mat fixed on the back of the glass at the warm end, not a heat bulb. Photoperiod is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Humidity about 60 to 70 percent. Spray once or twice daily; allow drier periods. FLOOR MESH LID Shadedweller UV On mesh lid · terrestrial form Heat mat Back glass · no bulb WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller UV — terrestrial form; sits on top of the mesh lid (never under)
  • Heat mat — warmth from the mat on the back glass; a heat bulb is not required
  • Photoperiod — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 60–70% RH; spray 1–2× daily; night spike is most important

Humidity 60–70%

  • Spray the enclosure once or twice daily (manual, fogger, or misting system)
  • Night-time humidity is most important; slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe
  • Do not keep the enclosure wet at all times — allow ventilation and drier periods to limit bacteria
  • Treat spray water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 60–70% RH — spray 1–2× daily without constant wetness.

  1. 1 · Day sprays

    1–2× daily

    Manual spray, fogger, or misting system; allow slightly drier periods

  2. 2 · Target band

    ~60–70%

    Do not obsess over a fixed reading every hour — the band is the goal

  3. 3 · Avoid waterlogging

    Ventilate

    Constant wetness raises bacteria — drier periods are normal and safe

First power-up tip

Always have the mat thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the hot-end probe to 74 °F (23 °C) for daytime once the mat and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded feeders. Growing animals often take about 5 insects daily; adults often slow to once or twice a week.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
Growing: about 5 crickets daily once settled; adults often once or twice a week
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Dubia roaches

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Mealworms

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new geckos — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • While growing: about 5 crickets daily once settled is usual
  • As adults, appetite often drops — many only eat once or twice a week
  • Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, Dubia; waxworms and mealworms in moderation
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Moisture also from live foods and water droplets after spraying — not seeing them drink is often fine
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Commercial feeder diets with good ingredients, plus fresh vegetables suitable for reptiles
  • A single piece of carrot or potato alone is not enough for balanced Ca:P
  • Dust every feed with a thorough 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Settle first, then short sessions — let regular feeding be your cue to start.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as they become more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, humidity with safe water, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
  • Carpet fibres can dislodge and be ingested when diving for prey

Questions

FAQ

What size tank does a Cave Gecko need?

Adult minimum is 18″ wide × 18″ high × 18″ deep. They are mainly terrestrial (they climb a little) — provide cork bark hides, some fallen branches, foliage for cover, and a cool-side water bowl. Use humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark (bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew also work well). Heat with a mat on the back of the glass; terrestrial Shadedweller UV sits on the mesh lid. Glass suits their cooler temperatures better than wooden vivariums.

How do I set heat and probe for a Cave Gecko?

Place the heat mat on the back of the glass tank. Feed the mat thermostat probe through the lid nodule so it rests at the back where the mat is — that monitors the hot end. Daytime probe target is 74 °F (23 °C), creating a gradient toward cooler room ambient. At night, reduce the mat stat by about 10 °F to around 64 °F (18 °C). Recommended temperatures only apply with this mat and probe placement.

What humidity and UV do they need?

About 60–70% relative humidity. Spray manually once or twice daily; foggers or misting systems can help. Night-time humidity is the most important (wild night spike). Slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe — do not keep the enclosure wet at all times (bacteria risk). Use a terrestrial Shadedweller UV system on top of the mesh lid. Photoperiod about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

When can I start handling my Cave Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What and how often do Cave Geckos eat?

Use the method of 5 (five insects at a time until eaten). Growing animals often take about 5 crickets daily once settled; adults often reduce to once or twice a week. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and Dubia roaches; waxworms and mealworms in moderation. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

Next steps

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