Bauer's Chameleon Gecko in an arboreal terrarium setup

Geckos · Care guide

Bauer's Chameleon Gecko Care Guide

Eurydactylodes agricolae

Small nocturnal/crepuscular arboreal geckos from Grand Terre, New Caledonia (about 2–3″). Glass tank with a heat mat on the back, T5 12% UV on the mesh lid, cork and small branches, humidity about 50–80%, and an insect-led diet.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Hot-end probe

    82–84 °F

    28–29 °C · at the heat mat

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~68–70 °F · ~20–21 °C

  • Humidity

    50–80%

    Spray 1–2× · evening priority

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    On top of mesh lid

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Small arboreal geckos from shrubs and trees — glass tanks with cork, small multi-height branches, foliage cover, humidity-retentive substrate, and a heat mat on the back glass.

Adult minimum size

12″ W × 12″ D × 18″ H

Glass tank. Adults grow to around 2–3 inches total length. Warmth from a heat mat on the back of the glass; T5 12% UV on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Cork bark and small branches at different heights for climbing
  • Foliage for cover and extra hiding places (not just aesthetics)
  • Heat mat on the back of the glass · probe at the hot end with the mat
  • Cool-side water bowl — treated water only

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix — coir and coarse orchid bark
  • Bio substrates and full bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew work extremely well
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria — limit the spread of bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and tank

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 12″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 12″) · heat mat on back glass · cork · small branches · foliage · cool water bowl · coir + orchid bark

Example Bauer's Chameleon Gecko glass tank front view at 12 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Bauer's Chameleon Gecko glass tank at 12 by 18 inch proportions with 12 inch depth. A heat mat is fixed on the back of the glass on the warm left side with the thermostat probe at the hot end. Cork bark, small multi-height branches, foliage for cover, humidity-retentive coir and orchid bark substrate, and a water bowl on the cool-end floor. A T5 12 percent UV unit sits on the mesh lid. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 12″ W × 12″ D × 18″ H T5 12% UV MESH LID 18″ tall 12″ wide · depth 12″ · height 18″ Heat mat Branches Foliage Cork Water bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 12″ wide × 18″ tall (2:3); depth 12″
  • Heat mat — on the back of the glass; Bauers do not need high temperatures
  • T5 12% UV — sits on top of the mesh lid
  • Cork & branches — small multi-height structure for shrubs and trees
  • Foliage — cover and extra hiding places
  • Water bowl — cool side of the enclosure

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat mat on the back glass · probe at the hot end with the mat

Tank top-down: heat mat on back glass and hot-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass tank from above. Heat mat is fixed on the back wall toward the left warm side. Thermostat sensor enters from the lid and rests at the back where the mat is so the hot-end temperature can be monitored at about 82 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit by day. BACK FRONT Heat mat Probe · hot end Day target 82–84 °F WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the tank · mat on the back glass · probe at the warm end

Tank front view: heat mat on back glass and hot-end probe Front elevation. Heat mat is on the back of the glass on the warm left side. Thermostat probe hangs down the back at the hot end beside the mat. Daytime probe point is about 82 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit, creating a gradient toward cooler room ambient. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE MAT Thermostat probe Hot end · with the mat Day 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) Heat mat On back of glass WARM COOL
  • Heat mat — on the back of the glass tank at the warm end (mat thermostat)
  • Probe — at the hot end with the mat; day target about 82–84 °F (28–29 °C)

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Hot-end mat control at 82–84 °F, T5 12% UV on the mesh lid, and humidity about 50–80% with an evening spray priority.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) hot end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool / ambient Room ambient (Background)
Hot end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 82–84 °F (28–29 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~68–70 °F (~20–21 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Heat winter: about 12 hours
  • Heat summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • UV tube: about 9–10 hours winter · 14–16 hours summer
  • Night: drop thermostat by ~10 °F to around 68–70 °F (20–21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the gecko

UVB lighting

  • T5 12% UV — diurnal UV is important for this species
  • Sits on top of the mesh lid — never under the lid
  • UV photoperiod about 9–10 hours in winter and 14–16 hours in summer
  • Heat mats suffice — Bauers do not need high temperatures

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass tank mesh lid — T5 12% UV sits on top of the lid · heat from mat (no basking bulb) · UV 9–10 h / 14–16 h

Glass tank: T5 12% UV sits on top of the mesh lid; heat from mat on back glass Front view of a Bauer's Chameleon Gecko glass tank with a mesh lid. A T5 12 percent UV unit sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. Warmth comes from a heat mat fixed on the back of the glass at the warm end, not a heat bulb. UV photoperiod is about 9 to 10 hours in winter and 14 to 16 hours in summer; heat about 12 hours winter and up to 16 hours summer. Humidity about 50 to 80 percent. Spray once or twice daily; allow drier periods. FLOOR MESH LID T5 12% UV Sits on top of mesh lid Heat mat Back glass · no bulb WARM COOL UV PHOTOPERIOD (T5) Winter 9–10 h Summer 14–16 h
  • T5 12% UV — sits on top of the mesh lid (never under)
  • Heat mat — warmth from the mat on the back glass; Bauers do not need high temperatures
  • UV photoperiod — about 9–10 hours in winter, 14–16 hours in summer (heat about 12 h / up to 16 h)
  • Humidity — about 50–80% RH; spray 1–2× daily with a stronger evening mist

Humidity 50–80%

  • Spray the enclosure once or twice daily — evening spray stronger for the night spike (fogger or rain system optional)
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe
  • Do not keep the enclosure wet at all times — allow ventilation and drier periods to limit bacteria
  • Treat spray water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 50–80% RH — spray 1–2× daily with a stronger evening mist.

  1. 1 · Day sprays

    1–2× daily

    Manual spray, fogger, or misting system; allow slightly drier periods

  2. 2 · Target band

    ~50–80%

    Do not obsess over a fixed reading every hour — the band is the goal

  3. 3 · Avoid waterlogging

    Ventilate

    Constant wetness raises bacteria — drier periods are normal and safe

First power-up tip

Always have the mat thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the hot-end probe to 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) for daytime once the mat and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded feeders.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
About 5–10 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new geckos — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5–10 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Moisture also from live foods and spray droplets — not seeing them drink is often fine
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Commercial feeder diets with good ingredients, plus fresh vegetables suitable for reptiles
  • A single piece of carrot or potato alone is not enough for balanced Ca:P
  • Dust every feed with a thorough 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Settle first, then short sessions — let regular feeding be your cue to start.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as they become more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, humidity with safe water, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
  • Carpet fibres can dislodge and be ingested when diving for prey

Questions

FAQ

What size tank does a Bauer's Chameleon Gecko need?

Adult minimum is 12″ wide × 18″ high × 12″ deep. They are small arboreal geckos (about 2–3″ total length) — provide cork bark, small multi-height branches, and foliage for cover. Use humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark (bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew also work well). Heat with a mat on the back of the glass; T5 12% UV sits on the mesh lid. Place a water bowl on the cool side.

How do I set heat and probe for a Bauer's Chameleon Gecko?

Place the heat mat on the back of the glass tank. Feed the mat thermostat probe through the lid nodule so it rests at the back where the mat is — that monitors the hot end. Daytime probe target is 82–84 °F (28–29 °C), creating a gradient toward cooler room ambient. At night, reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 68–70 °F (20–21 °C). Bauers do not need high temperatures, so heat mats will suffice.

What humidity and UV do they need?

About 50–80% relative humidity. Spray manually once or twice daily, with the evening spray stronger for the night-time spike; foggers or rain systems can help. Slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe — do not keep the enclosure wet at all times (bacteria risk). Use a T5 unit with 12% UV output sitting across the mesh lid. UV photoperiod about 9–10 hours in winter and 14–16 hours in summer; heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

When can I start handling my Bauer's Chameleon Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What and how often do Bauer's Chameleon Geckos eat?

Insect-led diet with the method of 5 (five insects at a time until eaten). Once settled, about 5–10 crickets daily is common. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

Next steps

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