Cat Gecko in an arboreal terrarium setup

Geckos · Care guide

Cat Gecko Care Guide

Aeluroscalabotes felinus

Endemic to cool, humid montane forests in Asia — crepuscular/nocturnal geckos that curl their tails like cats. Glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and Shadedweller UV, humidity 65% day / up to 85% night, and an insect-led diet.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Cool-end probe

    75–76 °F

    24 °C · ~6″ off substrate

  • Night drop

    to 65 °F

    ~18 °C · cooler nights

  • Humidity

    65 / 85%

    Day / night · spray 2×

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Nocturnal / crepuscular UV

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Arboreal nocturnal geckos with higher humidity and relatively cool temperatures — good candidates for a glass terrarium with mesh-lid heating and Shadedweller UV, climbing space, foliage, and humidity-retentive coir with coarse orchid bark.

Adult minimum size

18″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H

Glass terrarium. High humidity and lower temperatures suit glass. Heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Stable multi-height branches — they live up in trees
  • Foliage for aesthetics and extra hiding places
  • Heat dome on the mesh lid (warm back corner) + cool-end probe ~6″ off substrate

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix — coir and coarse orchid bark
  • Bio substrates and full bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew also work well
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 18″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 18″) · mesh lid · branches · foliage · coir + orchid bark

Example Cat Gecko glass terrarium front view at 18 inches wide by 24 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Cat Gecko glass terrarium at 18 by 24 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the warm left-back corner. Shadedweller UV sits on the mesh lid. Multi-height climbing branches lean under the heat toward the cool side. Foliage provides cover. Substrate is humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. Adult minimum 18 by 18 by 24 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 3:4 18″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H MESH LID SHADEDWELLER UV 24″ tall 18″ wide · depth 18″ · height 24″ Branches Foliage Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 18″ wide × 24″ tall (3:4); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Branches — stable multi-height climbing for an arboreal lifestyle
  • Foliage — aesthetics and extra hiding places
  • Substrate — humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark (bio setups also work well)
  • Mesh lid — heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on top of the lid

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about 6″ off the substrate

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and probe six inches off substrate Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests about six inches above the substrate so cool-end temperature can be set to 76 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit by day and about 68 to 70 at night. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh ≈ 6″ Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome ≈ 6″ off substrate WARM COOL Cool-end probe target: 75–76 °F (24 °C) day · 65 °F (18 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; tip about 6″ off the substrate to monitor cool-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool-end probe control, a gentle warm-end gradient, Shadedweller UV for a nocturnal species, and humidity about 65% by day / up to 85% at night.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 75–76 °F (24 °C) cool end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side (probe) (thermostat probe target) 75–76 °F (24 °C)
Daytime gradient ~76–82 °F (~24–28 °C)
Under basking ~82 °F (~28 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by 65 °F (18 °C) at night

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: drop thermostat to 65 °F (18 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the gecko

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller UV — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms)
  • Sits on top of the mesh lid — never under the lid
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule
  • Nocturnal animals still benefit from low-level UV during the day

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — Shadedweller UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: Shadedweller UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Cat Gecko glass terrarium. A Shadedweller UV unit designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles sits on top of the mesh lid. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm end of the mesh. Heat and UV follow about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Humidity about 65% by day and up to 85% at night; the night spike is important. FLOOR MESH LID Shadedweller UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 65% day / up to 85% night; spray twice daily; night spike is important

Humidity 65% day / up to 85% night

  • Spray the whole enclosure well twice daily with a pump sprayer (fogger or rain system also fine)
  • Night spike up to 85% is important — heavier spray, fogger, or rain system
  • They do not need high humidity at all times — allow the enclosure to dry out occasionally during the day
  • Do not waterlog the substrate — fungus and mould can cause respiratory problems

Daily humidity cycle

About 65% by day and up to 85% at night — spray twice daily; night spike is important.

  1. 1 · Day sprays

    Twice daily

    Manual spray, fogger, or misting system; allow slightly drier periods by day

  2. 2 · Night peak

    Up to 85%

    Night spike is important — heavier spray, fogger, or rain system

  3. 3 · Avoid waterlogging

    Ventilate

    Constant wetness raises bacteria — drier periods are normal and safe

First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 75–76 °F (24 °C) for daytime once equipment is in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded feeders. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes while growing.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
~5 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • ~5 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, mealworms
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water for spraying

  • Treat all spray water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
  • Moisture also comes from live food and droplets after spraying

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Commercial feeder diets with good ingredients, plus fresh vegetables suitable for reptiles
  • A single piece of carrot or potato alone is not enough for balanced Ca:P
  • Dust every feed with a thorough 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Settle first, then short sessions — let regular feeding be your cue to start.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse. At least two successful feeds first.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as they become more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, humidity with safe water, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size terrarium does a Cat Gecko need?

Adult minimum glass terrarium is 18″ wide × 24″ high × 18″ deep. High humidity and lower temperatures make glass terrariums a good fit. Heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on the mesh lid. Provide stable multi-height branches, foliage for cover, and humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark (bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew also work well).

What temperatures does a Cat Gecko need?

Place the heat bulb dome on the mesh lid to one side at the back (this guide uses the left-back). Feed the dimming thermostat sensor through the opposite lid nodule so it rests about 6″ off the substrate. Set the cool side to 75–76 °F (24 °C) by day for a gradient of about 76–82 °F under the basking spot. At night drop the thermostat to 65 °F (18 °C) so metabolism can slow.

What humidity and UV do they need?

Aim for about 65% humidity by day and up to 85% at night — the night spike is important. Spray the whole enclosure well twice daily with a pump sprayer (or use a fogger / rain system), without waterlogging the substrate. Allow the enclosure to dry out occasionally during the day. Although nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms) on top of the mesh lid. Photoperiod about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer with heat.

When can I start handling my Cat Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more. Once settled, about 5 crickets daily is common. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes while they are growing.

Next steps

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