Ocellated Velvet Gecko in an arboreal terrarium setup

Geckos · Care guide

Ocellated Velvet Gecko Care Guide

Oedura monilis

Arboreal, nocturnal lizards from Queensland and New South Wales, growing to about 6–8 inches. Glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and Shadedweller UV, humidity 50–80%, and an insect-led diet with plant matter.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Cool-end probe

    76–78 °F

    24–26 °C · ~6″ off substrate

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~68–70 °F · ~20–21 °C

  • Humidity

    50–80%

    Spray 2× · night peak

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Nocturnal / crepuscular UV

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Arboreal nocturnal geckos with higher humidity and relatively cool temperatures — good candidates for a glass terrarium with mesh-lid heating and Shadedweller UV, climbing space, foliage, humidity-retentive substrate, and a cool-side water bowl.

Adult minimum size

18″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H

Glass terrarium. Adults grow to around 6–8 inches. Heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Climbing branches and vertical structure for an arboreal lifestyle
  • Foliage for cover and a naturalistic setup
  • Heat dome on the mesh lid (warm back corner) + cool-end probe ~6″ off substrate
  • Cool-side water bowl — treated water only

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix suited to 50–80% RH glass setups
  • Coir and coarse orchid bark work well for high-humidity glass terrariums
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 18″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 18″) · mesh lid · branches · foliage · cool water bowl · coir + orchid bark

Example Ocellated Velvet Gecko glass terrarium front view at 18 inches wide by 24 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Ocellated Velvet Gecko glass terrarium at 18 by 24 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the warm left-back corner. A Shadedweller UV unit sits on the mesh lid. Climbing branches fill multiple heights, with a vertical branch under the heat leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side. Foliage provides cover. A water bowl sits on the cool-end floor. Substrate is humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 3:4 18″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H MESH LID 24″ tall 18″ wide · depth 18″ · height 24″ Branches Foliage Water bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 18″ wide × 24″ tall (3:4); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Mesh lid — heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on top
  • Branches — multi-height for an arboreal lifestyle
  • Foliage — cover and naturalistic décor
  • Water bowl — cool end for drinking (treated water)
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; mist without waterlogging

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about 6″ off the substrate

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and probe six inches off substrate Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests about six inches above the substrate so cool-end temperature can be set to 76 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit by day and about 68 to 70 at night. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh ≈ 6″ Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome ≈ 6″ off substrate WARM COOL Cool-end probe target: 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) day · ~68–70 °F (20–21 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; tip about 6″ off the substrate to monitor cool-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool-end probe control, a gentle warm-end gradient, Shadedweller UV for a nocturnal species, and humidity about 50–80% with a night peak.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) cool end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~75 °F (~24 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 76–78 °F (24–26 °C)
Middle 78–80 °F (26–27 °C)
Warm side ~85–90 °F (~29–32 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~68–70 °F (~20–21 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: drop thermostat by ~10 °F to around 68–70 °F (20–21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the gecko

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller UV — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms)
  • Sits on top of the mesh lid — never under the lid
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule
  • Nocturnal animals still benefit from low-level UV during the day

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — Shadedweller UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: Shadedweller UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Ocellated Velvet Gecko glass terrarium. A Shadedweller UV unit designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles sits on top of the mesh lid. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm end of the mesh. Heat and UV follow about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Humidity about 50-80%; night peak toward 80% is important. FLOOR MESH LID Shadedweller UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 50–80% RH; spray twice daily with a heavier night mist or fogger

Humidity 50–80%

  • Spray the enclosure twice daily (manual, fogger, or misting system)
  • Night peak toward 80% is important — heavier spray, fogger, or rain system
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe
  • Do not keep the enclosure wet at all times — allow ventilation and drier periods to limit bacteria

Daily humidity cycle

About 50–80% RH — spray twice daily with a night peak toward 80%.

  1. 1 · Day sprays

    Twice daily

    Manual spray, fogger, or misting system; allow slightly drier periods by day

  2. 2 · Night peak

    Toward 80%

    Heavier spray, fogger, or rain system when night humidity peaks

  3. 3 · Avoid waterlogging

    Ventilate

    Constant wetness raises bacteria — drier periods are normal and safe

First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) for daytime once equipment is in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insects and plant matter with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded feeders. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
5–8 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5–8 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Insects and plant matter as described in this guide
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Moisture is also gained from live foods — not seeing them drink is often fine
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Commercial feeder diets with good ingredients, plus fresh vegetables suitable for reptiles
  • A single piece of carrot or potato alone is not enough for balanced Ca:P
  • Dust every feed with a thorough 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Settle first, then short sessions — let regular feeding be your cue to start.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse. At least two successful feeds first.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as they become more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, humidity with safe water, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size terrarium does an Ocellated Velvet Gecko need?

Adult minimum glass terrarium 18″ wide × 18″ deep × 24″ tall. Higher humidity (50–80%) and lower temperatures make glass terrariums a good fit. Heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on the mesh lid. Provide climbing branches, foliage, humidity-retentive substrate, and a cool-side water bowl.

What temperatures does an Ocellated Velvet Gecko need?

Set the cool-end dimming thermostat probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) by day. Place the heat dome on the mesh lid about one-quarter of the way from one side (this guide uses left-back) and feed the sensor through the opposite lid side so it rests about 6″ off the substrate. That creates a gradient of about 75 °F cool, 78–80 °F middle, and around 85–90 °F warm. Night: reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 68–70 °F (20–21 °C).

What humidity and UV do they need?

Aim for about 50–80% humidity. Spray the enclosure twice daily (manual, fogger, or misting system). The night-time peak toward 80% matters — use a heavier spray, fogger, or rain system. Slightly drier periods by day are normal and safer than keeping the enclosure wet at all times. Although nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms) on top of the mesh lid. Photoperiod about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer with heat.

When can I start handling my Ocellated Velvet Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more. Once settled, about 5–8 crickets daily is common. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Insects and plant matter as described in this guide.

Next steps

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