Neon Day Gecko among rainforest foliage

Geckos · Care guide

Neon Day Gecko Care Guide

Phelsuma klemmeri

Small arboreal day geckos from coastal northwest Madagascar — about 3–4″ total length, prized for vivid colour. Glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and T5 12% UV, humidity 60–80%, cork and small branches, and a diet of insects plus jelly pots, fruit purees, and dried formulas.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Probe target

    80 °F

    27 °C · cool end · halfway down

  • Night target

    ~70 °F

    ~21 °C · ~10 °F drop

  • Humidity

    60–80%

    Spray 2×/day · evening priority

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    On top of mesh lid

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Small arboreal diurnal day geckos from Madagascar (~3–4″). Humidity 60–80% suits a glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and T5 12% UV, cork bark, small multi-height branches, foliage for cover, and a cool-end water bowl.

Adult minimum size

12″ W × 12″ D × 18″ H

Compact glass terrarium for a small arboreal day gecko. Heat dome and T5 12% UV sit on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Cork bark and small climbing branches at different heights (shrubs and trees)
  • Foliage for cover and additional hiding places
  • Heat dome on the mesh lid (warm back corner) + cool-end probe halfway down
  • Cool-end water bowl (de-chlorinated water); moisture also from live foods

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix of coir and coarse orchid bark — bio substrates work well
  • Complete bio setups with live planting and cleanup crew work extremely well; do not waterlog the substrate
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 18″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · mesh lid · branches · foliage · cool water bowl · coir + orchid bark

Example Neon Day Gecko glass terrarium front view at 12 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Neon Day Gecko glass terrarium at 12 by 18 inch proportions with 12 inch depth. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the warm left-back corner. A T5 12% UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid. Climbing branches fill multiple heights, with a vertical branch under the heat leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side. Foliage provides cover. A water bowl sits on the cool-end floor. Substrate is humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 12″ W × 12″ D × 18″ H MESH LID 18″ tall 12″ wide · depth 12″ · height 18″ Branches Foliage Water bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 18″ wide × 18″ tall (3:4); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Mesh lid — heat dome and T5 12% UV tube sit on top of the mesh
  • Branches — cork bark and small multi-height branches (shrubs and trees)
  • Foliage — cover and naturalistic décor
  • Water bowl — cool end for drinking (treated water)
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; mist without waterlogging

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about halfway down

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and probe halfway off substrate Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests about halfway down so cool-end temperature can be set to the ideal daytime probe of 80 degrees Fahrenheit. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh ≈ ½ way Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome ≈ halfway down WARM COOL Cool-end probe ideal: 80 °F (27 °C) day · ~70 °F (21 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; tip about halfway down the cool-end back corner to monitor cool-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool-end probe 80 °F halfway down, T5 12% UVB on the mesh lid, and humidity around 60–80% with twice-daily misting and evening priority.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80 °F (27 °C) cool end · halfway down creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 80 °F (27 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~70 °F (~21 °C) · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Heat winter: about 12 hours
  • Heat summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • UV: about 9–10 h winter · 14–16 h summer (daylight hours)
  • Night: about 10 °F drop to ~70 °F (21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the gecko

UVB lighting

  • T5 12% UV tube on the mesh lid
  • Sits across the top of the mesh lid — never under
  • UV about 9–10 h winter · 14–16 h summer
  • Arboreal — they spend most of their time in the top half of the terrarium

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — T5 12% UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: T5 12% UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Neon Day Gecko glass terrarium with a mesh lid. The T5 tube with 12 percent UV output sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. A heat dome also sits on top of the mesh at the warm end. Photoperiod is 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. FLOOR MESH LID T5 12% UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD · HEAT (UV 9–10 h / 14–16 h) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • T5 12% UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Heat photoperiod — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer · UV about 9–10 h winter / 14–16 h summer
  • Humidity — about 60–80% RH; spray twice daily with evening priority (fogger or rain system OK)

Humidity around 60–80%

  • Spray manually twice daily
  • Evening spray is most important — night humidity spike in the wild; fogger or rain system can help
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are perfectly safe and normal
  • Do not keep the enclosure constantly wet — bacteria risk

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 60–80% RH with twice-daily misting and a heavier evening spray.

  1. 1 · Day

    60–80% RH · spray 2×

    Morning mist plus room to dry a little during the day

  2. 2 · Evening

    Heavier mist

    Main spray of the day (fogger or rain system optional) for the night spike

  3. 3 · Ventilate

    Not always wet

    Constant wet conditions raise bacteria risk — allow drier periods and airflow

First power-up tip

Always have the dimming thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 80 °F (27 °C) for daytime once dome and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insects plus jelly pots, fruit purees, and dried formulas — method of 5, dust every feed, gut-load insects. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more · also jelly pots, fruit purees, dried formulas
Adults
About 5–10 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Jelly pots, fruit purees & dried formulas

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new geckos — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • About 5–10 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Insect staples plus jelly pots, fruit purees, dried formulas, and occasional treats
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from a cool-side water bowl
  • Moisture also comes from live foods — do not worry if you rarely see them drinking
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the gecko to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the gecko becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size tank does a Neon Day Gecko need?

Adult minimum is 12″ wide × 18″ high × 12″ deep glass terrarium. They are small arboreal day geckos (about 3–4″ total length). Provide cork bark, small multi-height branches, and foliage for cover. Use humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark (bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew work extremely well). Heat dome and T5 12% UV sit on top of the mesh lid. Cool-end probe about halfway down opposite the heat. Place a water bowl on the cool side.

How do I set heat and probe for a Neon Day Gecko?

Place the heat dome on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses left-back). Feed the dimming thermostat sensor through the opposite lid nodule so it rests about halfway down at the cool-end back corner. Ideal daytime temperature at the probe point is 80 °F (27 °C), creating a gradient from the cool end to the basking spot under the dome. At night, reduce about 10 °F to around 70 °F (21 °C). Recommended temps only apply with this placement.

What humidity and UV do Neon Day Geckos need?

Aim for about 60–80% relative humidity. Spray the enclosure manually twice daily — the evening spray is most important because night humidity spikes in the wild; a fogger or rain system can help. Slightly drier periods during the day are safe and normal — do not keep the enclosure constantly wet (bacteria risk). Use a T5 12% UV tube sitting on top of the mesh lid. UV photoperiod about 9–10 hours in winter and 14–16 hours in summer; heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

When can I start handling my Neon Day Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What and how often do Neon Day Geckos eat?

Live insects, jelly pots, fruit purees, and dried formulas. Use the method of 5 (five insects at a time until eaten). Once settled, 5–10 crickets daily is common. Staples: crickets, locusts, and calci worms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

Next steps

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