Geckos · Care guide
Paroedura pictus
Nocturnal/crepuscular geckos from Madagascar and the Comoros (Paroedura pictus) — adults about 4–6″. Cool-end probe 80 °F with a ~90 °F hotspot, humidity 60–80%, Shadedweller UV, and an insect-led diet.
At a glance
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
Daytime probe
80 °F
27 °C · cool-end sensor
Night
68–70 °F
20–21 °C · evening setback
Humidity
60–80%
Spray 1–2× · night priority
UVB
Shadedweller
Nocturnal / crepuscular UV
01 · Housing
Small ground-dwelling geckos from Madagascar and the Comoros. Fill the floor with hides and branches — they dislike big open spaces — plus artificial foliage, humid-retentive coir and orchid bark (or bio), and a clear temperature gradient. Adult minimum is 24″ × 18″ × 18″ (glass terrarium OK if your home is warm).
Adult minimum size
24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H
Wooden vivarium, or larger — glass terrarium is fine in a warm home (humidity). Heat bulb, cool-end probe, Shadedweller UV, humid substrate, cool-side water bowl.
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 24″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · hides · branches · foliage · humid coir+bark · cool water bowl
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
02 · Climate
Cool-end probe at 80 °F with a hotspot around 90 °F, Shadedweller UV, and moderate humidity (60–80%) with light spraying — not a permanently wet box.
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80 °F (27 °C) cool end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Probe point (cool end) (thermostat probe target) | 80 °F (27 °C) |
| Gradient | 80–90 °F (27–32 °C) |
| Hot spot | ~90 °F (~32 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by 68–70 °F (20–21 °C) at night |
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
Shadedweller UV on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 80 °F (27 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and cool-end sensor are in place.
03 · Nutrition
Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded insects.
At a glance
Fed regularly
In moderation only
Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Store the mix in an airtight container and use it to coat food every time you feed.
New Madagascan Ground Geckos often will not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases.
Offer 5 insects at a time
Wait until they are eaten before adding more
Prevents dumping 10–15 insects that go uneaten — reducing stress and insect-related injuries
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
04 · Behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the gecko becomes more comfortable.
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.
05 · Welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Pros
Cons
Questions
Adult minimum is a 24″ × 18″ × 18″ wooden vivarium, or larger. Because they need moderate humidity, a glass terrarium is also fine if your home is warm. Use humid-retentive substrate (coir mixed with orchid bark, or a soil-based bio mix), fill the floor with hides and branches, artificial foliage, and a cool-side water bowl. Heat bulb about one-quarter from one side, cool-end probe 2–3″ from the substrate, and Shadedweller UV.
Set the cool-end thermostat probe to 80 °F (27 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side. That creates a gradient from the cool-end probe toward a hot spot of about 90 °F under the bulb. At night turn the thermostat down to around 68–70 °F (20–21 °C). Humidity about 60–80%: light spray once or twice daily, with night the priority. Allow drier periods by day — do not keep the enclosure constantly wet.
Although nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms). Match UV on/off to heat. Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.
Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
Offer five insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more. Once settled, about 5–8 crickets daily is common. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.
Next steps
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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