Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius) in a dry vivarium setup

Geckos · Care guide

Leopard Gecko Care Guide

Eublepharis macularius

A terrestrial, crepuscular/nocturnal gecko from arid and semi-arid Pakistan, India and Iran — one of the most popular pet lizards. Dry heat with a probe target of 84 °F, Shadedweller UV, a wet box for shedding, and an insect-led diet.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    84 °F

    29 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~74 °F · ~23 °C

  • Diet

    Insects

    Method of 5 · 4:1 dust

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Nocturnal / crepuscular UV

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Terrestrial geckos from arid and semi-arid Asia. Give plenty of floor cover — hides, branches, a wet box with damp moss for shedding, artificial foliage, dry substrate, and a clear temperature gradient. Adult minimum is 24″ × 18″ × 18″.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Wooden vivarium, or larger as desired. Dry terrestrial setup with heat bulb, Shadedweller UV, wet box, and cool-side water bowl.

Decor

  • Fill the ground area with hides — they dislike big open spaces
  • Branches and enrichment across the floor area
  • Wet box with damp moss — even dry species retreat here, especially when shedding
  • Artificial foliage for aesthetics and extra hiding places
  • Small water bowl on the cool side

Substrate

  • Dry substrate — pelleted straw bedding or coarser desert sand
  • Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · hides · branches · wet box · foliage · cool water bowl

Example Leopard Gecko vivarium front view at 24 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Leopard Gecko vivarium at 24 by 18 inch proportions (4:3 front). Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, Shadedweller UV on the ceiling for nocturnal/crepuscular use, climbing branches under the heat with a vertical branch leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side, hides, branches, and a wet box with damp moss for shedding, artificial foliage, a small water bowl on the cool-end floor, and dry pelleted straw or coarser desert sand substrate. Depth is 18 inches. Adult minimum wooden vivarium 24 by 18 by 18 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 4:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H 18″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 18″ Branches Foliage Hides Wet box Water bowl Dry substrate WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 24″ wide × 18″ tall (4:3); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Branches — climbing wood they appreciate for enrichment
  • Hides — a variety of dry hides for seclusion (they dig in the wild)
  • Wet box — damp moss for occasional retreat and shedding
  • Water bowl — small dish on the cool end (de-chlorinated water)
  • Substrate — dry pelleted straw or coarser desert sand; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Dry heat with a clear cool-to-warm gradient, Shadedweller UV for a nocturnal species, and a wet box for shedding rather than high ambient humidity.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 84 °F (29 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~80 °F (~27 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 84 °F (29 °C)
Middle 86–88 °F (30–31 °C)
Warm side ~95 °F (~35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~74 °F (~23 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 74 °F (~23 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller UV — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms)
  • Mount on the ceiling of the vivarium
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Shadedweller UV on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: Shadedweller UV on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Leopard Gecko vivarium. A Shadedweller UV unit designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles sits on the ceiling. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Heat day length is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. CEILING FLOOR Shadedweller UV Mount on ceiling · replace yearly Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (UV HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer 14–16 h
  • Shadedweller UV — ceiling-mounted · nocturnal/crepuscular form; UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
  • Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
  • UV photoperiod — match heat (~12 hours winter, up to 16 hours in summer (heat ~12 h winter / up to 16 h summer)
  • Match UV to heat — same on/off as heat schedule degrades even if the tube still glows

Dry species · wet box

  • Main enclosure is dry — pelleted straw or coarser desert sand
  • Add a wet box with damp moss for occasional retreat, especially when shedding
  • Cool-side water bowl for drinking; moisture also comes from live food
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 84 °F (29 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded insects.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
5–10 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal (store airtight)
Food size
Appropriately sized for the animal (choking risk if too large)

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios
  • Occasional treat in moderation only if advised by staff

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Store the mix in an airtight container and use it to coat food every time you feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New Leopard Geckos often will not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until they are eaten before adding more

  3. Prevents dumping 10–15 insects that go uneaten — reducing stress and insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5–10 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, mealworms
  • Waxworms and morios in moderation only
  • Hunting live food provides exercise — avoid excessive hand feeding (obesity risk)

Water

  • They drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Moisture is also gained from live foods — not seeing them drink is often fine
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed; insects may contact waste)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Leopard Gecko need?

Adult minimum is a 24″ × 18″ × 18″ wooden vivarium, or larger. They are a dry terrestrial species — use pelleted straw or coarser desert sand (not fine sand), fill the floor with hides and branches, add a wet box with damp moss for shedding, artificial foliage for cover, and a cool-side water bowl. Use a heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method and Shadedweller UV for nocturnal/crepuscular reptiles.

What temperatures does a Leopard Gecko need?

Set the thermostat probe to 84 °F (29 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 80 °F cool, 86–88 °F middle, and around 95 °F warm. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 74 °F (23 °C).

What UV and photoperiod do they need?

Although nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms). Match UV on/off to heat. Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.

When can I start handling my Leopard Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more. Once settled, about 5–10 crickets daily is common. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

Next steps

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Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.

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