Leachianus Giant Gecko in an arboreal terrarium setup

Geckos · Care guide

Leachianus Giant Gecko Care Guide

Rhacodactylus leachianus

The largest gecko species — nocturnal/crepuscular arboreal lizards from New Caledonia (about 14–17″ depending on locale). Tall glass tank with a heat mat on the back, Shadedweller UV, cork and multi-height branches, humidity about 60–80%, and an insect-led diet with method of 5.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Hot-end probe

    78–80 °F

    26–27 °C · at the heat mat

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    to ~68–70 °F · ~20–21 °C

  • Humidity

    60–80%

    Spray 1–2× · night priority

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Nocturnal / crepuscular UV

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Arboreal geckos that live up in trees — tall glass tanks with cork, multi-height branches, foliage cover, humidity-retentive substrate, and a heat mat on the back glass.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H

Tall glass tank (taller rather than wider). Adults grow to around 14–17 inches total length depending on locale. Warmth from a heat mat on the back of the glass; Shadedweller UV on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Cork bark and stable branches at different heights for climbing
  • Foliage for cover and extra hiding places (not just aesthetics)
  • Heat mat on the back of the glass · probe at the hot end with the mat
  • Cool-side water bowl — treated water only

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix — coir and coarse orchid bark
  • Bio substrates and full bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew work extremely well
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • Every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and tank

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 18″) · heat mat on back glass · cork · branches · foliage · cool water bowl · coir + orchid bark

Example Leachianus Giant Gecko glass tank front view at 24 inches wide by 36 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Leachianus Giant Gecko glass tank at 24 by 36 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. A heat mat is fixed on the back of the glass on the warm left side with the thermostat probe at the hot end. Cork bark, multi-height branches, foliage for cover, humidity-retentive coir and orchid bark substrate, and a water bowl on the cool-end floor. A Shadedweller UV unit sits on the mesh lid. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H SHADEDWELLER UV MESH LID HEAT MAT 36″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 36″ Heat mat Branches Cork bark Foliage Water bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM / MAT COOL
  • Front proportions — 24″ wide × 36″ tall (2:3); depth 18″ — tall tank for arboreal lifestyle
  • Heat mat — on the back of the glass at the warm end (low temps; mat is enough)
  • Cork & branches — multi-height for an arboreal lifestyle
  • Foliage — cover and extra hiding places
  • Water bowl — cool end; also moisture from spray and jelly pots
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; bio setups also work well

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat mat on the back glass · probe at the hot end with the mat

Tank top-down: heat mat on back glass and hot-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass tank from above. Heat mat is fixed on the back wall toward the left warm side. Thermostat sensor enters from the lid and rests at the back where the mat is so the hot-end temperature can be monitored at about 78 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit by day. BACK FRONT Heat mat Probe · hot end Day target 78–80 °F WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the tank · mat on the back glass · probe at the warm end

Tank front view: heat mat on back glass and hot-end probe Front elevation. Heat mat is on the back of the glass on the warm left side. Thermostat probe hangs down the back at the hot end beside the mat. Daytime probe point is about 78 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, creating a gradient toward cooler room ambient. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE MAT Thermostat probe Hot end · with the mat Day 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) Heat mat On back of glass WARM COOL
  • Heat mat — on the back of the glass tank at the warm end (mat thermostat)
  • Probe — at the hot end with the mat; day target about 78–80 °F (26–27 °C)

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Hot-end mat control at 78–80 °F, Shadedweller UV for a nocturnal species, and humidity about 60–80% without constant wetness.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) hot end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool / ambient Room ambient (Background)
Hot end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 78–80 °F (26–27 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F drop to ~68–70 °F (~20–21 °C)

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: drop the mat thermostat about 10 °F to around 68–70 °F (20–21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the gecko

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller UV — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms)
  • Sits on top of the mesh lid — never under the lid
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule
  • Nocturnal animals still benefit from low-level UV during the day

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass tank mesh lid — Shadedweller UV sits on top of the lid · heat from mat (no basking bulb) · ~12 h winter / up to 16 h summer

Glass tank: Shadedweller UV sits on top of the mesh lid; heat from mat on back glass Front view of a Leachianus Giant Gecko glass tank with a mesh lid. A Shadedweller UV unit (terrestrial or arboreal forms) sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. Warmth comes from a heat mat fixed on the back of the glass at the warm end, not a heat bulb. Photoperiod is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Humidity about 60 to 80 percent. Spray once or twice daily; allow drier periods. FLOOR MESH LID Shadedweller UV On mesh lid · arboreal form Heat mat Back glass · no bulb WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller UV — terrestrial or arboreal form; sits on top of the mesh lid (never under)
  • Heat mat — warmth from the mat on the back glass; a heat bulb is not required
  • Photoperiod — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 60–80% RH; spray 1–2× daily, allow drier periods

Humidity 60–80%

  • Spray the enclosure once or twice daily (manual, fogger, or misting system)
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe
  • Do not keep the enclosure wet at all times — allow ventilation and drier periods to limit bacteria
  • Treat spray water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 60–80% RH — spray 1–2× daily without constant wetness.

  1. 1 · Day sprays

    1–2× daily

    Manual spray, fogger, or misting system; allow slightly drier periods

  2. 2 · Target band

    ~60–80%

    Do not obsess over a fixed reading every hour — the band is the goal

  3. 3 · Avoid waterlogging

    Ventilate

    Constant wetness raises bacteria — drier periods are normal and safe

First power-up tip

Always have the mat thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the hot-end probe to 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) for daytime once the mat and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded feeders. In the wild they also eat various fruits.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
5–10 crickets often daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every insect feed with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new geckos — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5–10 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • In the wild they feed on various insects and fruits — keep insects well gut-loaded
  • Youngsters especially need live insects for protein and strong growth
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Moisture is also gained from live foods — not seeing them drink is often fine
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Commercial feeder diets with good ingredients, plus fresh vegetables suitable for reptiles
  • A single piece of carrot or potato alone is not enough for balanced Ca:P
  • Dust every feed with a thorough 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Settle first, then short sessions — let regular feeding be your cue to start.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as they become more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, humidity with safe water, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
  • Carpet fibres can dislodge and be ingested when diving for prey

Questions

FAQ

What size tank does a Leachianus Giant Gecko need?

Adult minimum is 24″ wide × 36″ high × 18″ deep — a taller tank rather than a wide one for this arboreal species. They are the largest geckos (about 14–17″ depending on locale). Provide cork bark, stable multi-height branches, and foliage for cover. Use humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark (bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew work extremely well). Heat with a mat on the back of the glass; Shadedweller UV sits on the mesh lid. Place a water bowl on the cool side.

How do I set heat and probe for a Leachianus Giant Gecko?

Place the heat mat on the back of the glass tank. Feed the mat thermostat probe through the lid nodule so it rests at the back where the mat is — that monitors the hot end. Daytime probe target is 78–80 °F (26–27 °C), creating a gradient toward cooler room ambient. At night, reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 68–70 °F (20–21 °C). They need relatively low temperatures, so heat mats usually work adequately. Recommended temps only apply with this heat-mat and probe placement.

What humidity and UV do they need?

About 60–80% relative humidity. Spray manually once or twice daily — the night spray is most important because humidity spikes at night in the wild; a fogger or misting machine can help. Slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe — do not keep the enclosure wet at all times (bacteria risk). Use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms) on top of the mesh lid. Photoperiod about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

When can I start handling my Leachianus Giant Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What and how often do Leachianus Giant Geckos eat?

In the wild they eat various insects and fruits. In captivity use the method of 5 for insects (five at a time until eaten). Once settled, about 5–10 crickets daily is common. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Dust every insect feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes. Place a cool-side water bowl with de-chlorinated water.

Next steps

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