Flying Gecko among rainforest foliage

Geckos · Care guide

Flying Gecko Care Guide

Ptychozoon kuhli

Crepuscular/nocturnal gliding geckos from South East Asian tropical forests. Tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and Shadedweller UV, humidity about 70% by day and up to 100% at night, multi-height branches, and an insect-led diet.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Cool-end probe

    76–78 °F

    24–26 °C · ~6″ off substrate

  • Night target

    ~68 °F

    ~20 °C · cool-end drop

  • Humidity

    70 / 100%

    Day 70% · night up to 100%

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    On top of mesh lid

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Arboreal gliding geckos from tropical forests. High humidity and lower temperatures suit a tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and UV, multi-height branches, and foliage for cover and drinking droplets.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H

Tall glass terrarium. For gliding room, consider 36″ W × 36″ H × 18″ D or larger. Heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Climbing branches and structure for a multi-level setup
  • Foliage for cover in a rainforest-style layout
  • Heat dome on the mesh lid (warm back corner) + cool-end probe ~6″ off substrate
  • Spray foliage so they can drink droplets (de-chlorinated water)

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix of coir and coarse orchid bark — bio substrates also work well
  • Bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew work extremely well; do not waterlog the substrate
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 18″) · glass terrarium · mesh lid · branches · foliage · coir + orchid bark · spray-droplet drinking

Example Flying Gecko glass terrarium front view at 24 inches wide by 36 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Flying Gecko glass terrarium at 24 by 36 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the warm left-back corner. A Shadedweller UV unit also sits on top of the mesh lid. Stable multi-height branches and foliage for cover and drinking droplets after spraying. Substrate is humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. Drink from water droplets on sprayed foliage. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H MESH LID 36″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 36″ Branches Foliage Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 24″ wide × 36″ tall (2:3); depth 18″ — tall glass terrarium
  • Mesh lid — heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on top of the mesh
  • Branches — stable multi-height structure for an arboreal lifestyle
  • Foliage — cover and drinking droplets after each spray
  • Drinking — spray foliage thoroughly twice daily so droplets form on leaves
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; do not waterlog when misting

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about 6″ off the substrate

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and probe six inches off substrate Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests about six inches above the substrate so cool-end temperature can be set to 76 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit by day. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh ≈ 6″ Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome ≈ 6″ off substrate WARM COOL Cool-end probe target: 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) day · ~68 °F (20 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; tip about 6″ off the substrate to monitor cool-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool-end probe control, a moderate basking gradient, Shadedweller UVB on the mesh lid, and humidity around 70% day / up to 100% night with twice-daily misting and a night spike.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) cool end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 76–78 °F (24–26 °C)
Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) ~90–95 °F (~32–35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~68 °F (~20 °C) at night

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: cool-end target about 68 °F (20 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the gecko

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller UV on the mesh lid
  • Terrestrial or arboreal form; sits on top of the mesh lid — never under
  • Designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles that still use daylight UV
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — Shadedweller UV sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: Shadedweller UV sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Flying Gecko glass terrarium with a mesh lid. A Shadedweller UV unit sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. A heat dome also sits on top of the mesh at the warm end. Photoperiod is 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. FLOOR MESH LID Shadedweller UV Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller UV — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 70% day / up to 100% night; spray twice daily with a heavier night mist

Humidity around 70% day / up to 100% night

  • Spray manually twice daily
  • Night-time spike — increase the night spray; a fogger or misting machine can help
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are perfectly safe and normal
  • Do not obsess over holding one RH figure every minute of the day

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 70% day / up to 100% night RH with twice-daily misting and a heavier night spray.

  1. 1 · Day

    ~70% RH · spray 2×

    Spray foliage thoroughly so they can drink; allow drier spells during the day

  2. 2 · Night spray

    Heavier mist

    Increase the night spray (fogger or misting machine optional) for the night-time spike

  3. 3 · Ventilate

    Not always wet

    Constant wet conditions raise bacteria risk — allow drier periods and airflow

First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) for daytime once equipment is in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet, method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded insects. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
About 5 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new geckos — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • About 5 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Insect staples plus occasional treats as listed in this guide
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from water droplets on foliage after spraying — mist leaves thoroughly twice daily
  • Moisture also comes from live foods and spray droplets
  • Treat all spray water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the gecko to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the gecko becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your gecko.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size tank does a Flying Gecko need?

Adult minimum is 24″ wide × 36″ high × 18″ deep glass terrarium. For gliding space, consider 36″ wide × 36″ tall × 18″ deep or larger. Provide stable multi-height branches and foliage for cover and drinking droplets. Use humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark (bio setups work well). Heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on the mesh lid. Cool-end probe about 6″ off the substrate.

How do I set heat and probe for a Flying Gecko?

Place the heat dome on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses left-back). Feed the dimming thermostat sensor through the opposite lid side so it rests about 6″ off the substrate on the cool end. Daytime cool-end target is 76–78 °F (24–26 °C); at night drop to about 68 °F (20 °C). That creates a gradient from about 76 °F up to roughly 90–95 °F under the basking spot. Recommended temps only apply with this placement.

What humidity and UV do Flying Geckos need?

Aim for about 70% relative humidity by day and up to 100% at night — the night spike matters for this high-humidity species. Spray the whole enclosure well twice daily, including foliage so they can drink droplets. Slightly drier periods during the day are normal; do not keep the substrate waterlogged (fungus and respiratory risk). Foggers or rain systems can help at night. Use a Shadedweller UV system for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms) on top of the mesh lid. Photoperiod about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

When can I start handling my Flying Gecko?

Allow the gecko to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What and how often do Flying Geckos eat?

Insect-led diet with the method of 5 (five insects at a time until eaten). Once settled, about 5 crickets daily is common. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

Next steps

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