Decor
- 2 hides — one warm side, one cool side
- Low slate / slabs to climb over — extra exercise and enrichment
- Artificial foliage for aesthetics
- Food bowl and a water bowl large enough to enter
Tortoises · Care guide
Red Foot Tortoise Care Guide
Chelonoidis carbonarius
One of the most popular tortoises in the UK — relatively simple care, docile, and communal (even multiple males). Average about 15″, very occasionally 18″.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
80 °F
≈27 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~6 °C · about 70 °F / 21 °C
-
Humidity
60–80%
Spray 2×/day · night spike
-
UVB
T5 6%
Forest species · ceiling
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
A large humid forest vivarium with a clear temperature gradient, humid-retentive coir and orchid bark, warm and cool hides, low slate, foliage, a food bowl, and a soak-size water bowl.
Adult enclosure size
72″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H
Minimum for a single adult Red Foot — 6 ft wide × 24″ tall × 18″ deep, or larger.
Cherry head (smaller form, max ~10″): minimum 60″ × 24″ × 24″.
Babies: we supply 36″ × 18″ × 18″ as a starter pack. Adults average about 15″, very occasionally 18″.
Substrate
- Humid-retentive mix — we use coir and orchid bark
- Bio substrates that hold humidity also work well
- Supports the high-humidity forest setup
Water
- Bowl on the cool side — large enough for the tortoise to enter
- Replace water daily · Reptisafe or bottled water only
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 72″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 18″) · warm & cool hides · slate · food & soak water bowls · foliage · coir + orchid bark
- Front proportions — 72″ wide × 24″ tall (3:1); depth 18″ — single adult minimum
- Hides & slate — one hide warm, one cool; low slate or slabs for climbing enrichment
- Food & water bowls — water bowl large enough for the tortoise to enter; cool-side placement
- Substrate & UV — humid coir and orchid bark; T5 6% for forest species
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature, UVB & humidity
Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, T5 6% UVB (forest species), and high humidity support metabolism, appetite, and long-term health.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80 °F (≈27 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~76 °F (~24 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 80 °F (≈27 °C) |
| Middle | 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) |
| Warm side | 86–90 °F (30–32 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | ~95 °F (~35 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 70 °F (~21 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 70 °F (~21 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the tortoise
UVB lighting
- Red Foot Tortoises need T5 6% on the ceiling
- Mount straight across or diagonally (power unit can sit in a back corner near an outlet)
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
- UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 synthesis
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 6% UVB on the ceiling (straight or diagonal) · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 6% UV unit — ceiling-mounted for Red Foots and forest species; UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
Humidity — forest & high-humidity tortoises
Red Foots and other high-humidity tortoises (box tortoise, Cherry Head, and young Indian Star) need regular spraying to maintain levels and replenish substrate moisture.
- Target about 60–80% — rain systems or foggers can help
- Spray twice daily, with extra attention to the evening spray for the night-time spike
- Let it dry out during the day between sprays — constant wet environments can lead to problems
Humidity cycle
Day
dry between sprays
AM spray
~60–80%
Evening
night spike
At a glance
Red Foot vs other tortoises
Probe night/day, humidity notes, diet focus, and adult space (inches)
| Species | Probe N / D | Humidity | Diet | Space (″) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Red Foot | 70 / 80 °F | High 60–80% | Veg, greens & meat | 72×18×24 |
| Cherry head | 70 / 80 °F | High | Veg, greens & meat | 60×24×24 |
| Indian Star | 70 / 80 °F | High (young) | Vegetables & greens | 48×24×24 |
| Hermann's | 68 / 78 °F | Low | Vegetables & greens | 60×24×24 |
| Leopard | 72 / 84 °F | Low | Vegetables & greens | 72×24×30 |
Gradient figures in this guide follow the Red Foot daytime probe of 80 °F (cool ~76 · mid 82–84 · warm 86–90 · bask ~95). Adult housing callout is 72″ × 18″ × 24″ for a single Red Foot; Cherry head minimum 60″ × 24″ × 24″. Humidity target 60–80% with twice-daily spray and evening spike.
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Vegetables and greens with dusting on every feed, plus occasional carrion for forest species. Grasses, chopped hay, weeds and herbs remain excellent when safe.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Focus
- Vegetables & greens + occasional meat / carrion
- Schedule
- Fresh daily — leave one day a week free to forage
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
- Water
- Cool-side bowl large enough to enter · weekly bath ~10 min
Supplements — every feeding
Always coat food with vitamin supplements. Use a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal) and dust every feed.
Settling in — appetite
New tortoises often will not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled and happy, appetite usually increases. Trial and error will show which listed foods your tortoise accepts.
Water & hydration
- Bowl on the cool side — large enough for the tortoise to enter
- Replace water daily · Reptisafe or bottled water
- Weekly bath — chest-height warm water ~10 minutes; rehydrates, encourages bowel movement, chance to clean the shell with a soft toothbrush
Carrion & meat
- Forest species also take carrion
- Occasional cat food is fine
- Pinky / fluff mice (or larger whole prey for bigger animals) — bones and all
Best plant foods
- Weeds and herbs when safe remain the best base
- Grasses and chopped hay; dried grass mixes with herbs and flowers
- Alternate supermarket items for Ca:P balance
Plant matter & Ca:P lists Supermarket, garden plants, and foods to avoid
Use as many listed foods as possible and alternate for calcium-to-phosphorus balance. Naturally growing weeds and herbs remain the best base when safe. Always dust with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
Good calcium to low phosphorus (examples)
Apricots, basil, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli tops, cantaloupe, carrots/carrot tops*, chicory, Chinese cabbage, clover, dandelion leaves and flowers, escarole, figs and fig leaves, green onion, leeks, okra, oranges, papaya, parsley, pea pods (not peas), rosemary, sow thistle, turnip greens, watercress, petunia, viola, rose, hibiscus, campanula, evening primrose, continental lettuces (romaine, cos, frisée, endive, radicchio, lollo rosso), mulberry, grape, ficus, rose, hibiscus, and opuntia cactus leaves. *Carrots/carrot tops not in high concentration (tannins).
Marginal Ca:P
Apple (no pips), aubergine, celery leaf only, pears, radish, sweet potato.
Poor Ca:P / high phosphorus — use sparingly
Asparagus, aubergine, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, grapes, peaches, plums, squash, strawberries, tomato.
Generally exclude (oxalates / goitrogens / similar concerns)
Beans, rhubarb, spinach, beet greens, Swiss chard, cauliflower, cabbage, mustard greens, peas, collard greens, soy meal/beans, banana. Cabbage, squash and aubergine bind calcium via oxalates — only occasional use.
Garden plants often listed as safe
Carnations/dianthus, dracaena, echeveria/succulents, ficus, geranium, grape (Vitis), hibiscus, impatiens, maple leaves, nasturtiums, oregano, petunia, phlox, pinks, rose petals, soleirolia, campanula, chicory, evening primrose, clover, viola/pansy/violets (not African). Always double-check any plant before offering.
Toxic / avoid
Apple bark/leaves/seeds, burdock, buttercup, cherry, clematis, crocus, daffodil, eggplant, elderberry, holly, horse chestnut, hyacinth, hydrangea, iris, lily of the valley, mistletoe, narcissus, oak, oleander, peach, peony, poinsettia, potato, primrose, privet, rhododendron, shamrock, snowdrop, sorrel, sweet pea, tomato plant, tulip, Virginia creeper — and some rosemary/sage varieties (verify before use).
Always dust plant foods with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the tortoise to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the tortoise becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your tortoise.
Worming
Tortoises — especially when introduced or kept for short periods outside — are more susceptible to worms (endoparasites in the digestive system). In small numbers they may cause little harm; if they multiply they can cause serious problems, particularly if the tortoise is already unwell.
- Treat as a precaution regardless of whether you think worms are present
- Verm-x powder can be added to the multivitamin/calcium mix monthly; higher doses if a problem is suspected (follow instructions)
- Specialist reptile vets also handle worming — we can recommend contacts
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Red Foot Tortoise need?
For a single adult Red Foot we recommend a minimum vivarium of 6 ft wide × 24″ tall × 18″ deep (72″ × 18″ × 24″), or larger. Cherry head (a smaller form, max about 10″) can use 60″ × 24″ × 24″. Babies start in a 36″ × 18″ × 18″. Provide two hides (warm and cool), a food bowl, a water bowl large enough to enter, low slate or slabs, artificial foliage, and humid-retentive coir with orchid bark.
What temperatures does a Red Foot Tortoise need?
Set the thermostat probe to 80 °F (about 27 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side. That creates a gradient of about 76 °F on the cool side, 82–84 °F in the middle, around 86–90 °F on the warm side, and a basking spot of about 95 °F under the bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 70 °F (21 °C).
What UVB do Red Foot tortoises need?
Red Foots and other forest species need a T5 unit with 6% UV output mounted on the ceiling (straight across or diagonally). Replace every UV tube after 12 months because output diminishes. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. UVA supports appetite and activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 synthesis.
How much humidity do Red Foots need?
Red Foots and other high-humidity forest tortoises (including Cherry Head and young Indian Star) need about 60–80% humidity. Spray twice daily, with extra attention to an evening spray for the night-time spike. Let the enclosure dry between sprays — constant wetness can cause problems. Rain systems or foggers can help maintain levels and replenish substrate moisture.
What do Red Foot tortoises eat?
Feed fresh vegetables and greens daily, leaving one day a week free to forage. Dust every feed with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal. Forest species also take carrion: occasional cat food or pinky/fluff mice (or larger whole prey for bigger animals) are eagerly taken and beneficial. Grasses, chopped hay, weeds and herbs remain excellent when safe. Offer a cool-side soak-size water bowl and a weekly chest-height bath for about 10 minutes.
When can I start handling my Red Foot Tortoise?
Allow the tortoise to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure. Red Foots are docile and can be kept communally, including multiple males.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Red Foot Tortoise?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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