Decor
- 1–2 hides for security
- Slate or low rocks — enjoyed for clambering; help keep claws trim
- Food bowl and a water bowl large enough to climb into
Tortoises · Care guide
Leopard Tortoise Care Guide
Stigmochelys pardalis
One of the larger tortoise species, reaching up to about 18″, from east to southern Africa. Favours thorny to grassland habitats and feeds mainly on mixed grasses, thistles and succulents.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
84 °F
≈29 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10–12 °F
~6–7 °C · about 72 °F / 22 °C
-
Diet
Vegetables & greens
Grasses · dust every feed
-
UVB
T5 12%
Ceiling-mounted tube
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
A large dry terrestrial vivarium with a clear temperature gradient, dry substrate topped with edible grass, hides, slate or low rocks, a food bowl, and a soak-size water bowl.
Adult enclosure size
72″ W × 24″ D × 30″ H
Minimum for a single adult — or larger if you wish.
Babies: we supply 36″ × 18″ × 18″, which typically lasts a few years before an upgrade.
Substrate & graze
- Dry substrate — pelleted straw bedding works well
- Layer of edible grass — botanical flowers, leaves and dried grasses for natural grazing
Water
- Bowl on the cool side — preferably large enough for the tortoise to get into
- Replace water daily · Reptisafe or bottled water only
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 72″ wide × 30″ tall (depth 24″) · hides · slate/rocks · food & water bowls · edible grass on dry straw
- Front proportions — 72″ wide × 30″ tall (12:5); depth 24″ — single adult minimum
- Hides & rocks — 1–2 hides; slate or low rocks for clambering and claw wear
- Food & water bowls — water bowl large enough for the tortoise to climb into; cool-side placement for drinking
- Substrate — dry pelleted straw with edible grass layer for natural grazing
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature & UVB
Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, and T5 12% UVB are essential for metabolism, appetite, and long-term health.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 84 °F (≈29 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~78 °F (~26 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 84 °F (≈29 °C) |
| Middle | 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) |
| Warm side | 90–95 °F (32–35 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | ~100 °F (~38 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10–12 °F (~6–7 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10–12 °F (~6–7 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the tortoise
UVB lighting
- Leopard tortoises need T5 12% on the ceiling
- Mount straight across or diagonally (power unit can sit in a back corner near an outlet)
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
- UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 synthesis
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 12% UVB on the ceiling (straight or diagonal) · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 12% UV unit — ceiling-mounted for Leopard tortoises (12% UV as stated on the care guide); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
Various Species
Species comparison
Probe night/day, humidity band, diet focus, and adult space (inches)
| Species | Probe N / D | Humidity | Diet | Space (″) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Horsfield's | 68 / 78 °F | Low | Vegetables & greens | 48×24×24 |
| Hermann's | 68 / 78 °F | Low | Vegetables & greens | 60×24×24 |
| Spur-thigh | 68 / 78 °F | Low | Vegetables & greens | 60×24×24 |
| Leopard | 74 / 84 °F | Low | Vegetables & greens | 72×24×24* |
| Red Foot | 74 / 84 °F | High | Veg, greens & meat | 72×24×24 |
Gradient figures in this guide follow the Leopard daytime probe of 84 °F (cool ~78 · mid 86–88 · warm 90–95 · bask ~100). *Housing callout above uses the Leopard adult minimum of 72″ × 24″ × 30″ high from the enclosure section; the comparison row shows the general table figure of 72×24×24 for cross-species reference.
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Vegetables and greens with dusting on every feed. In the wild they favour mixed grasses, thistles and succulents — grasses and chopped hay remain excellent in captivity.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Focus
- Vegetables and greens — grasses, thistles, succulents; weeds and herbs when safe
- Schedule
- Fresh daily — leave one day a week free to forage
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
- Water
- Cool-side bowl large enough to climb into · weekly bath ~10 min
Supplements — every feeding
Always coat food with vitamin supplements. Use a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal) and dust every feed.
Settling in — appetite
New tortoises often will not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled and happy, appetite usually increases. Trial and error will show which listed foods your tortoise accepts.
Water & hydration
- Bowl on the cool side — preferably large enough for the tortoise to get into
- Replace water daily · Reptisafe or bottled water
- Weekly bath — chest-height warm water ~10 minutes; rehydrates, encourages bowel movement, chance to clean the shell with a soft toothbrush
Best plant foods
- Wild focus: mixed grasses, thistles and succulents
- Grasses and chopped hay; dried grass mixes with herbs and flowers
- Naturally growing weeds and herbs when safe; alternate supermarket items for Ca:P balance
Plant matter & Ca:P lists Supermarket, garden plants, and foods to avoid
Use as many listed foods as possible and alternate for calcium-to-phosphorus balance. Naturally growing weeds and herbs remain the best base when safe. Always dust with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
Good calcium to low phosphorus (examples)
Apricots, basil, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli tops, cantaloupe, carrots/carrot tops*, chicory, Chinese cabbage, clover, dandelion leaves and flowers, escarole, figs and fig leaves, green onion, leeks, okra, oranges, papaya, parsley, pea pods (not peas), rosemary, sow thistle, turnip greens, watercress, petunia, viola, rose, hibiscus, campanula, evening primrose, continental lettuces (romaine, cos, frisée, endive, radicchio, lollo rosso), mulberry, grape, ficus, rose, hibiscus, and opuntia cactus leaves. *Carrots/carrot tops not in high concentration (tannins).
Marginal Ca:P
Apple (no pips), aubergine, celery leaf only, pears, radish, sweet potato.
Poor Ca:P / high phosphorus — use sparingly
Asparagus, aubergine, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, grapes, peaches, plums, squash, strawberries, tomato.
Generally exclude (oxalates / goitrogens / similar concerns)
Beans, rhubarb, spinach, beet greens, Swiss chard, cauliflower, cabbage, mustard greens, peas, collard greens, soy meal/beans, banana. Cabbage, squash and aubergine bind calcium via oxalates — only occasional use.
Garden plants often listed as safe
Carnations/dianthus, dracaena, echeveria/succulents, ficus, geranium, grape (Vitis), hibiscus, impatiens, maple leaves, nasturtiums, oregano, petunia, phlox, pinks, rose petals, soleirolia, viola/pansy/violets (not African). Always double-check any plant before offering.
Toxic / avoid
Apple bark/leaves/seeds, burdock, buttercup, cherry, clematis, crocus, daffodil, eggplant, elderberry, holly, horse chestnut, hyacinth, hydrangea, iris, lily of the valley, mistletoe, narcissus, oak, oleander, peach, peony, poinsettia, potato, primrose, privet, rhododendron, shamrock, snowdrop, sorrel, sweet pea, tomato plant, tulip, Virginia creeper — and some rosemary/sage varieties (verify before use).
Always dust plant foods with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the tortoise to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the tortoise becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your tortoise.
Worming
Tortoises — especially when introduced or kept for short periods outside — are more susceptible to worms (endoparasites in the digestive system). In small numbers they may cause little harm; if they multiply they can cause serious problems, particularly if the tortoise is already unwell.
- Treat as a precaution regardless of whether you think worms are present
- Verm-x powder can be added to the multivitamin/calcium mix monthly; higher doses if a problem is suspected (follow instructions)
- Specialist reptile vets also handle worming — we can recommend contacts
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Leopard Tortoise need?
For a single adult we recommend a minimum vivarium of 72″ wide × 24″ deep × 30″ high. Babies can start in a 36″ × 18″ × 18″, which typically lasts a few years before upgrading. Provide 1–2 hides, a food bowl, a water bowl large enough for the tortoise to climb into, slate or low rocks for clambering, and dry pelleted straw with an edible grass layer.
What temperatures does a Leopard Tortoise need?
Set the thermostat probe to 84 °F (about 29 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side. That creates a gradient of about 78 °F on the cool side, 86–88 °F in the middle, around 90–95 °F on the warm side, and a basking spot of about 100 °F under the bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10–12 °F to around 72 °F (22 °C).
What UVB do Leopard Tortoises need?
Leopard tortoises need a T5 unit with 12% UV output mounted on the ceiling (straight across or diagonally). Replace every UV tube after 12 months because output diminishes. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. UVA supports appetite and activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 synthesis.
How often should I feed and bathe my tortoise?
Feed fresh daily, leaving one day a week free so the tortoise can forage and show natural behaviour. Dust every feed with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal. Offer a cool-side water bowl large enough to climb into, with daily changes (Reptisafe or bottled water). Give a weekly bath in chest-height warm water for about 10 minutes to rehydrate, encourage bowel movement, and allow shell cleaning with a soft toothbrush. In the wild they favour mixed grasses, thistles and succulents — grasses and chopped hay remain excellent in captivity.
When can I start handling my Leopard Tortoise?
Allow the tortoise to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
Next steps
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