Mediterranean Tortoise in a dry terrestrial vivarium setup

Tortoises · Care guide

Mediterranean Tortoise Care Guide

Testudo ssp.

The most popular tortoises in the UK for relatively simple care, manageable size, and a docile nature. Keep singly (or females only) — males are highly territorial loners in the wild.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    78 °F

    ≈26 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~6 °C · about 68 °F / 20 °C

  • Diet

    Vegetables & greens

    Dust every feed · 4:1 Ca

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    Drier spp. · ceiling-mounted

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Dry terrestrial vivariums with a clear temperature gradient, dry substrate topped with edible grass, hides, slate or low rocks, a food bowl, and a cool-side water bowl. Size depends on species — keep singly or females only.

Adult enclosure size

48″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H

Minimum for a single tortoise of the smaller species (e.g. Horsfield's) — or larger if you wish. Larger species up to 72″ × 24″ × 24″.

Babies: we supply 36″ × 18″ × 18″, which typically lasts a few years before an upgrade.

Decor

  • Hides for security
  • Slate or low rocks — enjoyed for clambering; help keep claws trim
  • Food bowl and a cool-side water bowl

Substrate & graze

  • Dry substrate — pelleted straw bedding works well
  • Layer of edible grass — natural botanical flowers, leaves and dried grasses for grazing and enrichment

Water

  • Bowl on the cool side for regular hydration without excess humidity
  • Replace water daily · Reptisafe or bottled water only

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 48″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 24″) · hides · slate/rocks · food & water bowls · edible grass on dry straw

Example Mediterranean Tortoise vivarium front view at 48 inches wide by 24 inches tall for smaller species Front elevation of a smaller-species adult Mediterranean Tortoise vivarium at 48 by 24 inch proportions — twice as wide as tall. Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, T5 12% UV tube on the ceiling, dry pelleted straw with an edible grass layer, hides, slate or low rocks, a food bowl, and a water bowl on the cool-end floor. Depth is 24 inches. Larger species need up to 72 by 24 by 24 inches. SMALLER SPECIES · FRONT 2:1 48″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H 24″ tall 48″ wide · depth 24″ · height 24″ Rocks Hides Food Edible grass Water bowl Pelleted straw + grass WARM / BASK COOL
  • Front proportions 48″ wide × 24″ tall (2:1); depth 24″ — smaller species (e.g. Horsfield's); larger species up to 72×24×24
  • Hides & rocks — hides for security; slate or low rocks for clambering and claw wear
  • Food & water bowls — food bowl plus cool-side water bowl; replace water daily
  • Substrate — dry pelleted straw with a layer of edible grass for natural grazing
  • Heat & UV — heat dome ~¼ warm side; T5 12% on the ceiling for drier Mediterranean species

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, and the right UV output for drier Mediterranean species are essential for metabolism and long-term health.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 78 °F (≈26 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~76 °F (~24 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 78 °F (≈26 °C)
Middle 82–84 °F (28–29 °C)
Warm side 88–90 °F (31–32 °C)
Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) ~95 °F (~35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 68 °F (~20 °C)

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 68 °F (~20 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the tortoise

UVB lighting

  • Drier Mediterranean species: T5 12% on the ceiling
  • Mount straight across or diagonally (power unit can sit in a back corner near an outlet)
  • Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
  • Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
  • UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 synthesis
  • Forest / high-humidity species (e.g. Red Foot) need 6% — see that guide

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

T5 12% UVB on the ceiling (straight or diagonal) · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: T5 12% UV tube on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Mediterranean Tortoise vivarium. A T5 unit with 12% UV output is mounted on the ceiling — 12% for drier Mediterranean species. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Photoperiod is 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Replace the UV tube every 12 months. CEILING FLOOR T5 12% UV tube Mount on ceiling · replace yearly Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • T5 12% UV unit — ceiling-mounted for drier Mediterranean species (Horsfield's, Hermann's, Spur-thigh); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
  • Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
  • Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows

Various Species

Species comparison

Probe night/day, humidity band, diet focus, and adult space (inches)

Species Probe N / D Humidity Diet Space (″)
Horsfield's 68 / 78 °F Low Vegetables & greens 48×24×24
Hermann's 68 / 78 °F Low Vegetables & greens 60×24×24
Spur-thigh 68 / 78 °F Low Vegetables & greens 60×24×24
Leopard 74 / 84 °F Low Vegetables & greens 72×24×24
Red Foot 74 / 84 °F High Veg, greens & meat 72×24×24

Gradient figures above (cool through bask) are the general daytime setup for the 78 °F probe target used for Horsfield's, Hermann's, and Spur-thigh. Leopard and Red Foot use higher probe targets on the sheet — see dedicated guides for full detail where available.

First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Vegetables and greens with dusting on every feed. Alternate items for calcium-to-phosphorus balance; natural weeds and herbs are excellent when safe.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Focus
Vegetables and greens — variety from the plant lists; weeds and herbs when safe
Schedule
Fresh daily — leave one day a week free to forage
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Water
Cool-side bowl (daily change) · weekly chest-height warm bath ~10 min

Supplements — every feeding

Always coat food with vitamin supplements. Use a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal) and dust every feed.

Settling in — appetite

New tortoises often will not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled and happy, appetite usually increases. Trial and error will show which listed foods your tortoise accepts.

Water & hydration

  • Bowl on the cool side — hydrates without raising humidity too much for drier species
  • Replace water daily · Reptisafe or bottled water
  • Weekly bath — chest-height warm water ~10 minutes; rehydrates, encourages bowel movement, chance to clean the shell with a soft toothbrush

Best plant foods

  • Naturally growing weeds and herbs when safe
  • Grasses and chopped hay; dried grass mixes with herbs and flowers
  • Alternate supermarket items for Ca:P balance
Plant matter & Ca:P lists Supermarket, garden plants, and foods to avoid

Use as many listed foods as possible and alternate for calcium-to-phosphorus balance. Naturally growing weeds and herbs remain the best base when safe. Always dust with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.

Good calcium to low phosphorus (examples)

Apricots, basil, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli tops, cantaloupe, carrots/carrot tops*, chicory, Chinese cabbage, clover, dandelion leaves and flowers, escarole, figs and fig leaves, green onion, leeks, okra, oranges, papaya, parsley, pea pods (not peas), rosemary, sow thistle, turnip greens, watercress, petunia, viola, rose, hibiscus, campanula, evening primrose, continental lettuces (romaine, cos, frisée, endive, radicchio, lollo rosso), mulberry, grape, ficus, rose, hibiscus, and opuntia cactus leaves. *Carrots/carrot tops not in high concentration (tannins).

Marginal Ca:P

Apple (no pips), aubergine, celery leaf only, pears, radish, sweet potato.

Poor Ca:P / high phosphorus — use sparingly

Asparagus, aubergine, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, grapes, peaches, plums, squash, strawberries, tomato.

Generally exclude (oxalates / goitrogens / similar concerns)

Beans, rhubarb, spinach, beet greens, Swiss chard, cauliflower, cabbage, mustard greens, peas, collard greens, soy meal/beans, banana. Cabbage, squash and aubergine bind calcium via oxalates — only occasional use.

Garden plants often listed as safe

Carnations/dianthus, dracaena, echeveria/succulents, ficus, geranium, grape (Vitis), hibiscus, impatiens, maple leaves, nasturtiums, oregano, petunia, phlox, pinks, rose petals, soleirolia, viola/pansy/violets (not African). Always double-check any plant before offering.

Toxic / avoid

Apple bark/leaves/seeds, burdock, buttercup, cherry, clematis, crocus, daffodil, eggplant, elderberry, holly, horse chestnut, hyacinth, hydrangea, iris, lily of the valley, mistletoe, narcissus, oak, oleander, peach, peony, poinsettia, potato, primrose, privet, rhododendron, shamrock, snowdrop, sorrel, sweet pea, tomato plant, tulip, Virginia creeper — and some rosemary/sage varieties (verify before use).

Always dust plant foods with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the tortoise to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the tortoise becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your tortoise.

Worming

Tortoises — especially when introduced or kept for short periods outside — are more susceptible to worms (endoparasites in the digestive system). In small numbers they may cause little harm; if they multiply they can cause serious problems, particularly if the tortoise is already unwell.

  • Treat as a precaution regardless of whether you think worms are present
  • Verm-x powder can be added to the multivitamin/calcium mix monthly; higher doses if a problem is suspected (follow instructions)
  • Specialist reptile vets also handle worming — we can recommend contacts

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Mediterranean Tortoise need?

For a single tortoise, we recommend a minimum adult vivarium of 48″ × 24″ × 24″ for smaller species (e.g. Horsfield's), up to 72″ × 24″ × 24″ for larger species. Hermann's and Spur-thigh are listed at 60×24×24. We supply a 36″ × 18″ × 18″ to start babies, which gives a few years before upgrading. Keep singly, or females only if keeping more than one — males must be isolated as they are highly territorial.

What temperatures does a Mediterranean Tortoise need?

Set the thermostat probe to 78 °F (about 26 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side. That creates a gradient of about 76 °F on the cool side, 82–84 °F in the middle, around 88–90 °F on the warm side, and a basking spot of about 95 °F under the bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 68 °F (20 °C). Horsfield's, Hermann's, and Spur-thigh share this 68 °F night / 78 °F day probe pattern on the sheet.

What UVB do Mediterranean Tortoises need?

Drier Mediterranean species need a T5 unit with 12% UV output mounted on the ceiling (straight across or diagonally). Forest / high-humidity tortoises such as Red Foot need 6% — see that care guide. Replace every UV tube after 12 months because output diminishes. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

How often should I feed and bathe my tortoise?

Feed fresh daily, leaving one day a week free so the tortoise can forage and show natural behaviour. Dust every feed with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal. Offer a cool-side water bowl with daily changes (Reptisafe or bottled water). Give a weekly bath in chest-height warm water for about 10 minutes to rehydrate, encourage bowel movement, and allow shell cleaning with a soft toothbrush.

When can I start handling my Mediterranean Tortoise?

Allow the tortoise to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

Next steps

Ready to set up your Mediterranean Tortoise?

Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.

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