Western Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus) in a dry vivarium setup

Snakes · Care guide

Western Hognose Snake Care Guide

Heterodon nasicus

Found across the eastern United States into the Great Lakes and parts of Canada — a small favourite colubrid. Probe target 80 °F, humidity 50–60% with an evening spike, coir and orchid bark, a wet box, Shadedweller UV, and a rodent diet sized to girth. Rear-fanged (see health note).

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    80 °F

    27 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~70 °F · ~21 °C

  • Humidity

    50–60%

    Evening spike ~70%

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Terrestrial / arboreal forms

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Small snakes that dislike big open spaces — fill the floor with hides, branches and enrichment. Coir and orchid bark (or bio), a wet box, moderate humidity with an evening spike, and a clear temperature gradient. Adult minimum is 24″ × 18″ × 18″.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Wooden vivarium minimum (or larger as desired). Heat bulb, Shadedweller UV, coir and orchid bark, wet box, and cool-side water bowl.

Decor

  • Fill the ground with hides, branches and places of enrichment — they dislike big open spaces
  • Wet box with damp moss — they use this a great deal
  • Artificial foliage for aesthetics and extra hiding places
  • Water bowl on the cool side

Substrate

  • Mix of coir and orchid bark — or a suitable bio substrate
  • Humid species that only needs low humidity — substrate should reflect this
  • Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · hides · branches · wet box · coir & bark · cool water bowl

Example Western Hognose Snake vivarium front view at 24 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Western Hognose Snake vivarium at 24 by 18 inch proportions (4:3 front). Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, Shadedweller UV on the ceiling, climbing branches under the heat, hides, a wet box with damp moss, artificial foliage, a water bowl on the cool-end floor, and coir with orchid bark substrate. Depth is 18 inches. Adult minimum wooden vivarium 24 by 18 by 18 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 4:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H 18″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 18″ Branches Foliage Hides Wet box Water bowl Coir & bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 24″ wide × 18″ tall (4:3); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Branches — climbing wood they appreciate for enrichment
  • Hides — a variety of dry hides for seclusion (they dig in the wild)
  • Wet box — damp moss for occasional retreat and shedding
  • Water bowl — small dish on the cool end (de-chlorinated water)
  • Substrate — coir and orchid bark (or suitable bio mix); daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Probe 80 °F with a clear cool-to-warm gradient, Shadedweller UV for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles, and moderate humidity with an evening spike.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80 °F (27 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~78 °F (~26 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 80 °F (27 °C)
Middle 82–84 °F (28–29 °C)
Warm side 86–88 °F (30–31 °C)
Basking spot ~90 °F (~32 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~70 °F (~21 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 70 °F (~21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms)
  • Although nocturnal, they make use of daylight rays at some point
  • Mount on the ceiling of the vivarium
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Shadedweller on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: Shadedweller on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Western Hognose Snake vivarium. A Shadedweller UV unit sits on the ceiling. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. CEILING FLOOR Shadedweller Ceiling mount · for snakes Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (UV HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller — ceiling-mounted; snakes may access UV during daylight even when largely nocturnal
  • Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
  • Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
  • Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F in the evening so metabolism can slow

Humidity cycle

  • Daytime average 50–60%
  • Evening spike to about 70% — spray in the evening, or use a fogger / rain system
  • Wet box with damp moss — they use this a great deal
  • Cool-side water bowl; replace daily with de-chlorinated water
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 80 °F (27 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most hognoses.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
Food size
Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Prey size stages

Guide as the snake grows — size relative to girth

Prey Frequency
1 pinkie 2× per week
2 pinkies 2× per week
1 fluff 2× per week
2 fluffs Every 5 days
1 hop Every 5 days
1 small mouse Every 7 days
1 medium mouse Every 7–10 days
1 large mouse Every 10–12 days
1 extra-large mouse Every 14 days

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Replace water daily
  • Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Western Hognose need?

Hognoses are a small species — adult minimum is a wooden vivarium 24″ × 18″ × 18″, or larger as desired. Use coir and orchid bark (or a suitable bio mix), fill the floor with hides, branches and enrichment, artificial foliage, a wet box with damp moss, and a cool-side water bowl. Heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method and Shadedweller UV.

What temperatures does a Western Hognose need?

Set the thermostat probe to 80 °F (27 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 78 °F cool, 82–84 °F middle, 86–88 °F warm, and around 90 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 70 °F (21 °C).

What humidity do they need?

Daytime average about 50–60%, with a slight evening spike to about 70%. Spray in the evening to raise humidity, or use a fogger or rain system. A wet box with damp moss helps — they use it a great deal.

What UV do they need?

Although nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.

Are Western Hognoses venomous?

They are rear-fanged venomous. Their venom is not significant enough to harm humans unless you are hypoallergenic and allergic to bee stings — in that case the sheet strongly advises against keeping one.

When can I start handling my Western Hognose?

Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Western Hognose?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about once every five days; adults about once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.

Next steps

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