Baron's Green Racer (Philodryas baroni) in a dry vivarium setup

Snakes · Care guide

Baron's Green Racer Care Guide

Philodryas baroni

South American green racers — rapid but rather timid, about 4–6 ft and slender. Semi-arid arboreal setup: probe 80 °F, T5 6% UV, day humidity under 50% with a night spike to about 70%, wet box, climbing branches, and a rodent diet sized to girth. Rear-fanged (see health note).

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    80 °F

    27 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~70 °F · ~21 °C

  • Humidity

    Under 50→70%

    Day dry · night spike

  • UVB

    T5 6%

    Ceiling · tree-dwelling

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Semi-arid arboreal racer setup. Adult minimum is 36″ wide × 36″ high × 18″ deep (or larger). Orchid bark with coir, hides and climbing branches, wet box, artificial foliage, T5 6% UV, and a cool-side water bowl.

Adult minimum size

36″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H

Wooden vivarium minimum (or larger as desired). Heat bulb with ¼/¼ probe method, T5 6% ceiling UV, climbing branches, wet box, and cool-side water bowl.

Decor

  • Fill the ground with hides, branches and enrichment — snakes dislike big open spaces
  • Climbing branches — arboreal species
  • Wet box with damp moss for night humidity and shedding
  • Artificial foliage for aesthetics and extra cover · cool-side water bowl

Substrate

  • Semi-arid with night humidity — orchid bark mixed with coir (or bio)
  • Holds a little overnight humidity for the night spike without staying constantly wet
  • Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 36″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 18″) · T5 6% · climbing branches · hides · wet box · coir & bark · cool water bowl

Example Baron's Green Racer vivarium front view at 36 inches wide by 36 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Baron's Green Racer wooden vivarium at 36 by 36 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. Heat dome on the ceiling about one-quarter from the warm left, T5 6% UV tube on the ceiling, multi-level climbing branches, hides, a wet box with damp moss, artificial foliage, a cool-end water bowl, and orchid bark mixed with coir substrate. Adult minimum 36 by 36 by 18 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 1:1 36″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H CEILING 36″ tall 36″ wide · depth 18″ · height 36″ Branches Foliage Hides Wet box Water bowl Coir & bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 36″ wide × 36″ tall (1:1); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • T5 6% — ceiling UV for tree-dwelling racers (not a Shadedweller)
  • Branches — ground enrichment plus climbing wood (arboreal)
  • Hides — fill open floor space so the snake feels secure
  • Wet box — damp moss for night humidity and shedding
  • Substrate — orchid bark mixed with coir (or bio); cool-side water bowl

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Probe 80 °F with a clear cool-to-warm gradient, T5 6% for tree-dwelling racers, and a night humidity spike — light evening spray to about 70%.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80 °F (27 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~75 °F (~24 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 80 °F (27 °C)
Middle 82–84 °F (28–29 °C)
Warm side ~88 °F (~31 °C)
Basking spot ~90 °F (~32 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~70 °F (~21 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 70 °F (~21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

UVB lighting

  • T5 6% — ceiling UV; preferred over Shadedweller for tree-dwelling racers
  • Although nocturnal, they use daylight rays — especially when resting in branches
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer
  • Match UV on/off to the heat photoperiod

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

T5 6% on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: T5 6% on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Baron's Green Racer vivarium. A T5 6% UV tube sits on the ceiling. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. CEILING FLOOR T5 6% UV Ceiling · tree-dwelling Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (UV HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • T5 6% — ceiling-mounted for tree-dwelling racers; preferred over Shadedweller for this species
  • Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
  • Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F to about 70 °F

Humidity & water

  • Daytime less than about 50%
  • Night spike to about 70% — light evening spray, fogger, or rain system
  • Wet box with damp moss — helps with humidity and shedding
  • Cool-side water bowl; replace daily with de-chlorinated water
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 80 °F (27 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most of these racers.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
Food size
Match girth — mouse roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Prey size stages

Guide as the snake grows — size relative to girth

Prey Frequency
1 pinkie 2× per week
2 pinkies 2× per week
1 fluff 2× per week
2 fluffs Every 5 days
1 hop Every 5 days
1 small mouse Every 7 days
1 medium mouse Every 7–10 days
1 large mouse Every 10–12 days
1 extra-large mouse Every 14 days

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Replace water daily
  • Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Rapid but rather timid. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Baron's Green Racer need?

Adult minimum is a wooden vivarium 36″ wide × 36″ high × 18″ deep, or larger as desired. They average 4–6 ft and are arboreal — fill the ground with hides, branches and enrichment, add climbing branches, artificial foliage, a wet box with damp moss, orchid bark mixed with coir (or bio), and a cool-side water bowl. Heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method and T5 6% UV on the ceiling.

What temperatures does a Baron's Green Racer need?

Set the thermostat probe to 80 °F (27 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 75 °F cool, 82–84 °F middle, around 88 °F warm, and around 90 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 70 °F (21 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

What humidity do they need?

Semi-arid: less than 50% during the day, rising to about 70% at night. Light evening spray, or a fogger / rain system. A wet box with damp moss helps. Substrate of orchid bark mixed with coir (or bio) holds a little overnight humidity.

What UV do they need?

Although nocturnal, use a T5 6% UV system on the vivarium ceiling. Tree-dwelling racers are more exposed when resting in branches — the sheet recommends 6% T5 rather than a Shadedweller (which is suggested for burrowers).

Are Baron's Green Racers venomous?

They are rear-fanged. This is not dangerous to humans in the way a serious venom is — more like a bee sting — but if you are hypoallergenic, the sheet suggests choosing a different snake.

Can I keep more than one together?

No. Cannibalism has been reported — never co-habit. Only place them together for breeding.

When can I start handling my Baron's Green Racer?

Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Baron's Green Racer?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults every five days; adults once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (mouse). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed.

Next steps

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