Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizard among foliage

Lizards · Care guide

Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizard Care Guide

Calotes bachae

Native mainly to south Vietnam and eastern Cambodia. A small arboreal forest lizard (about 8″ total length including the tail) that needs a tall humid vivarium and an insect-led diet.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    82 °F

    28 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~6 °C · about 72 °F / 22 °C

  • Humidity

    High

    Damp day · night spike · mist 2×

  • UVB

    T5 6%

    Ceiling-mounted tube

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizards are arboreal — they spend most of their time (and sleep) in trees. Choose a vivarium that is taller rather than wider.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H

Tall vivarium for one or two animals. Prioritise height over width.

Decor

  • Sturdy branches at different levels for climbing and resting
  • Artificial plants for aesthetics
  • Good candidate for a live planted bio setup

Substrate

  • High-humidity mix — coir + orchid bark recommended
  • Many good commercial high-humidity options exist

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • Every 4–6 weeks: full clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 18″) · multi-level branches · plants · water bowl

Example Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizard vivarium front view at 24 inches wide by 36 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizard vivarium at true 24 by 36 inch proportions — taller than it is wide. Heat dome on the warm left side of the lid, T5 UV tube on the ceiling, a vertical branch under the heat leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side, multi-level horizontal branches, artificial plants for aesthetics, an adequately sized water bowl on the cool right floor for drinking and bathing, and coir and orchid bark substrate. Depth is 18 inches. Suitable for one or two animals. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H 36″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · 1–2 animals Branches Plants Water bowl Coir + bark WARM / BASK COOL
  • Front proportions — 24″ wide × 36″ tall (2:3); depth 18″
  • Branches — sturdy, at different levels for climbing, resting, and sleeping
  • Plants — artificial plants for aesthetics; good candidate for a live planted bio setup
  • Water bowl — large enough to drink and bathe; mist droplets on leaves also help
  • Substrate — high-humidity mix (coir + orchid bark recommended); daily spot clean, full clean every 4–6 weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, UVB, and high humidity are essential for metabolism and long-term health.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~80 °F (~27 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 82 °F (28 °C)
Middle 86–88 °F (30–31 °C)
Warm side 90–95 °F (32–35 °C)
Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) ~100 °F (~38 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard

UVB lighting

  • Forest species need a T5 6% UV tube
  • Mount on the ceiling of the vivarium
  • Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
  • Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
  • UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption

Humidity

These lizards need high humidity. Keep the substrate and enclosure damp, but never waterlogged. Night-time humidity should spike.

  • Mist twice daily so substrate and décor stay damp
  • Slight dry-out during the day is fine; prioritise the evening spray for the night spike
  • Fogger or spray system optional
  • Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water

Daily humidity cycle

Keep the enclosure damp (not waterlogged) · night spike matters

  1. 1 · Day

    Damp substrate

    Slight dry-out during the day is fine — do not stay sodden

  2. 2 · Mist

    Twice daily

    Pump sprayer, fogger, or spray system — Reptisafe or bottled water

  3. 3 · Night

    Humidity spike

    Evening spray is important — night is when humidity should rise

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

T5 6% UVB on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat schedule

Vivarium lighting: T5 6% UVB tube on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a vivarium. A T5 6% UV tube runs along the ceiling. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Photoperiod is 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Replace the UV tube every 12 months. CEILING FLOOR T5 6% UV tube Mount on ceiling · UVA + UVB Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • T5 6% UV tube — ceiling-mounted; UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
  • Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
  • Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Primarily insectivorous. Plant matter is optional — most individuals take little, but some will finish a salad. Dust every feed and gut-load insects.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
5–10 crickets/locusts per day once settled · leave out 1–2 days per week
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal (store airtight)
Food size
Never larger than half the size of the lizard’s head (choking risk)

Staple insects

Fed regularly · dust every feed

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Dubia roaches
  • Calci Worms

Occasional insects

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Mealworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Store the mix in an airtight container and use it to coat food every time you feed — live foods and any salads offered.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizards often sulk and may not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases. Exact intake varies — the method of 5 helps while you learn their routine.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until they are eaten before adding more

  3. Prevents dumping 15–20 insects that go uneaten — reducing stress and insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5–10 crickets/locusts per day once settled
  • Leave out feeding 1–2 days per week as appetite reduces
  • Plant matter optional — try salads; most take little

Water

  • Adequately sized water bowl for drinking and bathing
  • Droplets from misting on leaves and décor
  • Reptisafe or bottled water only — not untreated tap water

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling. They are not highly active sit-and-wait hunters, but can move quickly.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse. They are renowned for sulking when new — this is normal.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, humidity, UVB, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, humidity, supplementation, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Hold humidity poorly and dry out quickly
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed; insects may contact waste)

Questions

FAQ

How often should I mist a Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizard enclosure?

Spray twice a day so the substrate and enclosure stay damp but not waterlogged. It is fine for the setup to dry slightly during the day; the night-time spray is when humidity should spike. A fogger or spray system is optional. Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water — not untreated tap water.

When can I start handling my Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizard?

Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. They are renowned for sulking when stressed — this is normal. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What UVB do Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizards need?

As a forest species they need a T5 6% UV tube mounted on the ceiling of the vivarium. Replace it every 12 months because UV output degrades over time. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule (on in the morning, off in the evening).

What size vivarium does a Vietnamese Blue Crested Lizard need?

Adult minimum for one or two animals is 24″ wide × 18″ deep × 36″ tall — taller rather than wider because they are arboreal. Use sturdy multi-level branches, artificial plants, a high-humidity substrate such as coir and orchid bark, and an adequately sized water bowl for drinking and bathing.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until you see them eaten before adding more. This prevents dumping large numbers of uneaten insects, which can stress the animal and cause insect-related injuries. Once settled, adults commonly take 5–10 crickets per day; leave out one or two days a week as appetite reduces. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size should be no larger than half the size of the lizard’s head. They are primarily insectivorous; plant matter is optional and not usually eaten in large amounts.

Next steps

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