Lizards · Care guide
Shinisaurus crocodilurus
A semi-aquatic lizard of cool forests in southeastern China and northeastern Vietnam. Glass terrarium or paludarium, a high basking branch to dry off, and an insect-led diet. Threatened in the wild — CITES paperwork is required to prove legal captive breeding.
At a glance
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
Daytime probe
76 °F
24 °C · halfway down the back
Night
62–64 °F
17–18 °C · ~10 °F drop
Humidity
60–80%
Night spike up to 90%
UVB
T5 12% / 6%
12% on mesh · 6% if inside
01 · Housing
Cool-forest, semi-aquatic lizards that climb and swim. A glass terrarium or paludarium with a high basking branch, plant cover, humidity-retentive substrate, and a large filtered water area.
Adult minimum size
30″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H
Minimum glass terrarium or paludarium, or similar. A 30″ × 18″ × 30″ terrarium is an excellent fit. They need height to bask and dry off on a branch above the water.
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 30″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 18″) · branches · plant cover · deep water tub · coir and orchid bark
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb one-quarter in · probe one-quarter from the opposite side · halfway front to back
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the terrarium · halogen on the mesh lid · probe about halfway down
02 · Climate
A cool background with a localised drying hotspot, T5 UV matched to the housing, and humidity of 60–80% by day with a night spike up to 90%.
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 76 °F (24 °C) halfway down creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Towards the bottom | 72–74 °F (22–23 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 76 °F (24 °C) |
| Middle | 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | ~86 °F (~30 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F drop to around 62–64 °F (17–18 °C) |
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
Glass terrarium mesh lid — T5 12% on the lid · low-wattage halogen · UV 10–12 h winter / 14–16 h summer
Target 60–80% by day, with a night spike that can reach 90%.
60–80% RH
Slightly drier spells are normal — do not chase a constant wet enclosure
Heavier mist
Focus the second spray here — night humidity can reach 90%
Not always wet
Constant wet conditions raise bacteria risk — allow drier periods and airflow
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 76 °F (24 °C) for daytime once the bulb and sensor are in place. Use a low-wattage halogen so the hotspot stays localised.
03 · Nutrition
Insect-led diet, method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded insects. Food no larger than the distance between the eyes. Adults every other day.
At a glance
Fed regularly
In moderation only
Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.
New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.
Offer 5 insects at a time
Wait until you see them consumed before adding more
Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
04 · Behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
Allow the lizard to settle and eat at least twice before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.
05 · Welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — cool background temperatures, UVB, clean water, and supplementation working together. Overheating is a leading cause of stress and death in this species.
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Pros
Cons
Questions
Minimum 30″ wide × 18″ deep × 24″ high, or similar. A 30″ wide × 18″ deep × 30″ high terrarium is an excellent fit. Glass terrarium or paludarium — they climb and swim, and need a high branch to bask and dry off. In store they are kept with a large, deep filtered water tub; a full-base water area with a separated land section also works if the base is watertight.
Set the dimming thermostat probe to 76 °F (24 °C) by day, with the sensor about halfway down the back opposite the heat bulb. That creates about 72–74 °F towards the bottom, 78–80 °F in the middle, and a localised basking spot around 86 °F under a low-wattage halogen. Night drop is about 10 °F, to around 62–64 °F. Overheating is a leading cause of stress and death — do not use a high-powered flood that warms the whole enclosure. Heat about 10 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
Daytime humidity 60–80%, with a night spike that can reach 90%. Spray twice a day and focus on the night spray. A fogger, misting machine, or rain system on a timer can help. Slightly drier periods during the day are safe. Do not keep the enclosure wet at all times — that raises bacteria and mould risk. Allow ventilation.
A D3 T5 tube matched to daylight hours: 10–12 hours in winter, increasing to 14–16 hours in summer. Use T5 6% fitted inside on the roof of a wooden vivarium, or T5 12% laid across the mesh screen of a glass terrarium.
Yes. Shinisaurus crocodilurus is threatened in the wild. Animals must be accompanied by CITES paperwork proving they are legally captive bred.
Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — wait until it has eaten at least twice. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
Offer five insects at a time and wait until they are eaten before adding more. Once settled, 5–10 crickets a day is relatively common; feed adults every other day. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food no more than the distance between the eyes. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and lobworms; waxworms and morios in moderation.
Next steps
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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