Tricolour Hognose Snake (Xenodon pulcher) in a dry vivarium setup

Snakes · Care guide

Tricolour Hognose Snake Care Guide

Xenodon pulcher

The Tricolour Hognose (Xenodon pulcher) is found in humid regions of South America — a small species averaging about 2 ft. Dry heat with a probe target of 82 °F, a wet box for humidity choice, Shadedweller UV, and a rodent diet sized to girth. Rear-fanged (bee-sting allergy caution).

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    82 °F

    28 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~72 °F · ~22 °C

  • Diet

    Rodents

    By girth · size stages

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Nocturnal / crepuscular UV

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Small dry-setup hognoses (~2 ft). Fill the floor with hides, branches and enrichment, add a wet box, artificial foliage, and a clear temperature gradient. Adult minimum wooden vivarium 24″ × 18″ × 18″, or larger as desired.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Wooden vivarium minimum, or larger as desired. Dry setup with heat bulb, Shadedweller UV, wet box, and cool-side water bowl.

Decor

  • Fill the ground with hides, branches and enrichment — snakes dislike big open spaces
  • Wet box with damp moss — even drier species retreat to damp areas, especially when shedding
  • Artificial foliage for aesthetics and extra cover
  • Water bowl on the cool side — replace daily

Substrate

  • Dry species — pelleted straw is a good choice
  • Sand-style option: choose a coarser type — not very fine sand (impaction risk)

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · hides · branches · wet box · foliage · cool water bowl

Example Tricolour Hognose vivarium front view at 24 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Tricolour Hognose vivarium at 24 by 18 inch proportions (4:3 front). Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, Shadedweller UV on the ceiling, branches and enrichment hides, a wet box with damp moss, artificial foliage, a cool-end water bowl, and dry pelleted straw substrate. Depth is 18 inches. Adult minimum wooden vivarium 24 by 18 by 18 inches, or larger as desired. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 4:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H 18″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 18″ Branches Foliage Hides Tunnel Wet box Water bowl Dry substrate WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 24″ wide × 18″ tall (4:3); depth 18″ — adult minimum, or larger as desired
  • Hides & branches — fill the ground area; snakes dislike big open spaces
  • Wet box — damp moss so the snake can retreat to humidity, especially when shedding
  • Water bowl — cool side; replace daily with de-chlorinated water
  • Substrate — dry pelleted straw or coarser sand (not very fine sand); daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks
  • UV — Shadedweller for nocturnal / crepuscular reptiles on the ceiling

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Dry heat with a clear cool-to-warm gradient (probe 82 °F · cool ~78 · mid 84–86 · warm 90–95 · bask ~100 °F), Shadedweller UV for nocturnal species, and a wet box so the snake can choose humidity rather than high ambient moisture.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~78 °F (~26 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 82 °F (28 °C)
Middle 84–86 °F (29–30 °C)
Warm side 90–95 °F (32–35 °C)
Basking spot ~100 °F (~38 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~72 °F (~22 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms)
  • Although nocturnal, they use daylight UV at some point during the day
  • Mount on the ceiling of the vivarium
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Shadedweller on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: Shadedweller on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Tricolour Hognose Snake vivarium. A Shadedweller UV unit sits on the ceiling. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. CEILING FLOOR Shadedweller Ceiling mount Nocturnal / crepuscular Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (UV HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller — ceiling-mounted; snakes may access UV during daylight even when largely nocturnal
  • Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
  • Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
  • Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F in the evening so metabolism can slow

Dry species · humid choice

  • A dry species — pelleted straw or coarser sand-style bedding
  • Add a wet box with damp moss so they can retreat to a damp area, especially when shedding
  • Even drier species benefit from occasional humid choice without raising whole-viv moisture
  • Cool-side water bowl; replace daily with de-chlorinated water
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 82 °F (28 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most individuals.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
Food size
Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Prey size stages

Guide as the snake grows — size relative to girth

Prey Frequency
1 pinkie 2× per week
2 pinkies 2× per week
1 fluff 2× per week
2 fluffs Every 5 days
1 hop Every 5 days
1 small mouse Every 7 days
1 medium mouse Every 7–10 days
1 large mouse Every 10–12 days
1 extra-large mouse Every 14 days

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Replace water daily
  • Treat with a de-chlorinator
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling. Note the rear-fang / allergy caution before you commit to this species.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Tricolour Hognose need?

They average about 2 ft. Adult minimum is a wooden vivarium 24″ × 18″ × 18″, or larger as desired. Dry pelleted straw (or a coarser sand-style substrate — not very fine sand), fill the floor with hides, branches and enrichment, artificial foliage, a wet box with damp moss, and a cool-side water bowl. Heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method and Shadedweller UV.

What temperatures does a Tricolour Hognose need?

Set the thermostat probe to 82 °F (28 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 78 °F cool, 84–86 °F middle, 90–95 °F warm, and around 100 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 72 °F (22 °C).

What UV and photoperiod do they need?

Although nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms). Research supports that they use daylight UV at some point. Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.

Are Tricolour Hognose Snakes venomous?

They are rear-fanged venomous. Venom is not significant enough to harm most humans, but if you are hypoallergenic or allergic to bee stings we strongly advise against keeping one.

When can I start handling my Tricolour Hognose?

Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling so digestion is not interrupted. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Tricolour Hognose?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about every five days; adults about once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size). Move up a size if a meal leaves no noticeable bulge a few hours after eating. Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.

Next steps

Ready to set up your Tricolour Hognose?

Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.

More in Snakes