Trans Pecos Rat Snake (Bogertophis subocularis) in a dry desert vivarium setup

Snakes · Care guide

Trans Pecos Rat Snake Care Guide

Bogertophis subocularis

A gentle, docile snake found from Mexico through Texas in rocky outcrops and desert flats. Medium species averaging 3.5–5.5 feet. Dry desert heat with a probe target of 82 °F, Shadedweller UV, a wet box for shedding, and a rodent diet sized to girth.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    82 °F

    28 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~72 °F · ~22 °C

  • Diet

    Rodents

    By girth · size stages

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Terrestrial / arboreal forms

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Desert snakes that dislike big open spaces — fill the ground with hides and branches. Dry substrate, a wet box with damp moss for shedding, artificial foliage, and a clear temperature gradient. Adult minimum is 48″ × 18″ × 18″ or larger.

Adult minimum size

48″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Wooden vivarium of 48″ × 18″ × 18″ or larger as desired. Dry desert setup with heat bulb, Shadedweller UV, wet box, and cool-side water bowl.

Decor

  • Fill the ground with hides, branches and enrichment — snakes dislike big open spaces
  • Wet box with damp moss — even dry species retreat to damp areas, especially when shedding
  • Artificial foliage for aesthetics and extra hiding places
  • Water bowl on the cool side

Substrate

  • Desert / low humidity — pelleted straw, or coarser sand-style substrate
  • Not fine sand — fine mineral sands can cause impaction

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 48″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · hides · branches · wet box · foliage · cool water bowl

Example Trans Pecos Rat Snake vivarium front view at 48 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Trans Pecos Rat Snake vivarium at 48 by 18 inch proportions (8:3 front). Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, Shadedweller UV on the ceiling, climbing branches under the heat, hides on warm and cool ends, an open arched tunnel, a wet box with damp moss for shedding, artificial foliage, a water bowl on the cool-end floor, and dry pelleted straw or coarser sand substrate. Depth is 18 inches. Adult minimum wooden vivarium 48 by 18 by 18 inches or larger. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 8:3 48″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H 18″ tall 48″ wide · depth 18″ · height 18″ Branches Foliage Hides Tunnel Wet box Water bowl Dry substrate WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 48″ wide × 18″ tall (8:3); depth 18″ — adult minimum (or larger)
  • Hides & branches — fill the ground area; snakes dislike big open spaces
  • Wet box — damp moss hide for shedding / occasional moisture retreat
  • Water bowl — cool side; replace daily with de-chlorinated water
  • Artificial foliage — aesthetics and extra hiding places
  • Substrate — pelleted straw or coarser sand (not fine sand); daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Dry desert heat with a clear cool-to-warm gradient, Shadedweller UV for nocturnal/crepuscular forms, and a wet box for humidity choice rather than high ambient humidity.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~78 °F (~26 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 82 °F (28 °C)
Middle 84–86 °F (29–30 °C)
Warm side ~88 °F (~31 °C)
Basking spot ~100 °F (~38 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~72 °F (~22 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial and arboreal forms)
  • Research supports they use the sun’s rays at some point during daylight
  • Choose terrestrial or arboreal Shadedweller to suit the setup
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Shadedweller on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: Shadedweller on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Trans Pecos Rat Snake vivarium. A Shadedweller UV unit sits on the ceiling. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. CEILING FLOOR Shadedweller Ceiling mount · for snakes Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (UV HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller — ceiling-mounted; snakes may access UV during daylight even when largely nocturnal
  • Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
  • Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
  • Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F in the evening so metabolism can slow

Dry desert · wet box

  • Main enclosure is dry / low humidity — pelleted straw or coarser sand-style substrate
  • Add a wet box with damp moss so they can retreat to moisture — especially useful when shedding
  • Cool-side water bowl for drinking; replace daily with de-chlorinated water
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 82 °F (28 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Rodent feeders sized to girth, with a clear size ladder as they grow. Settle first — new arrivals often will not eat well for the first week — then build a steady schedule.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
Food size
Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Prey size stages

Guide as the snake grows — size relative to girth

Prey Frequency
1 pinkie 2× per week
2 pinkies 2× per week
1 fluff 2× per week
2 fluffs Every 5 days
1 hop Every 5 days
1 small mouse Every 7 days
1 medium mouse Every 7–10 days
1 large mouse Every 10–12 days
1 extra-large mouse Every 14 days

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Replace water daily
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Trans Pecos Rat Snake need?

Adult minimum is a wooden vivarium of 48″ × 18″ × 18″, or larger as desired. They are a dry desert species — use pelleted straw or a coarser sand-style substrate (not fine sand), fill the ground with hides and branches, add a wet box with damp moss for shedding, artificial foliage, and a cool-side water bowl. Use a heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method and Shadedweller UV (terrestrial or arboreal form).

What temperatures does a Trans Pecos Rat Snake need?

Set the thermostat probe to 82 °F (28 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 78 °F cool, 84–86 °F middle, around 88 °F warm, and around 100 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 72 °F (22 °C).

What UV and photoperiod do they need?

Although they are nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial and arboreal forms). Research supports that they use the sun’s rays at some point during daylight. Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.

How large do Trans Pecos Rat Snakes get?

They are a medium species, averaging 3.5–5.5 feet. Bogertophis subocularis is a gentle, docile snake found from Mexico through Texas in rocky outcrops and desert flats.

When can I start handling my Trans Pecos Rat Snake?

Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling so digestion is not interrupted. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Trans Pecos Rat Snake?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about once every five days; adults about once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size) — aim for a mouse roughly as thick as the snake. Follow the pinkie-to-extra-large ladder as they grow. Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.

Next steps

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