Decor
- Rocks, tunnels and climbing branches at differing levels
- Artificial foliage for a naturalistic look
- Large cool-side water bowl — preferably one they can get into
Lizards · Care guide
Tegu Care Guide
Salvator ssp.
Several Tegu subspecies are native to tropical rainforests and savannahs of South America. The two most commonly kept forms — Black and White, and Red — share very similar care: large vivariums, high humidity, T5 12% UVB, and patient handling of these intelligent lizards.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
82–84 °F
28–29 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~74 °F
~23 °C · evening thermostat set
-
Humidity
70% / 80%
Day / night · high humidity
-
UVB
T5 12%
Ceiling-mounted tube
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Large, heavy-set lizards that need a large vivarium. Provide rocks, tunnels and multi-level climbing branches, humidity-retentive substrate, artificial foliage, and a solid temperature gradient. Minimum size is for a single adult.
Adult minimum size
96″ W × 48″ H × 48″ D
For a single adult, or larger if you wish. Black and White Tegus are about 4–5 ft; Red Tegus about 3–4 ft. Start babies in something smaller so you can interact without chasing them around a huge viv.
Substrate
- Humidity-retentive mix — coir mixed with orchid bark recommended
- Bio soil type substrates mixed with coarse reptile sands also work
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 96″ wide × 48″ tall (depth 48″) · multi-level branches · rocks & tunnel · large cool-side water bowl
- Front proportions — 96″ wide × 48″ tall (2:1); depth 48″ — or larger
- Branches — multi-level climbing at differing heights
- Rocks — enrichment décor
- Tunnel — arched tunnel for enrichment
- Foliage — artificial plants for a naturalistic look
- Large water bowl — cool side; preferably large enough to get into
- Substrate — coir mixed with orchid bark (humidity-retentive); daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down
02 · Climate
Temperature, UVB & humidity
Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, UVB, and steady humidity are essential for metabolism and long-term health.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~76 °F (~24 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) |
| Middle | 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) |
| Warm side | 90–95 °F (32–35 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | ~110 °F (~43 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by to approx. 74 °F (~23 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat to about 74 °F (23 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for rest
UVB lighting
- Recommended T5 unit with 12% UV output on the ceiling
- Mount straight across or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent)
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
- UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
Humidity
Aim for 70% by day and 80% at night. Fairly high humidity is very important for Tegus, and the night-time spike matters for high-humidity species.
- Mist the whole enclosure well two or three times a day with a pump sprayer
- Fogger and/or rain systems are also excellent options (some keepers use both)
- Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water
Daily humidity cycle
Target 70% day / 80% night — the night spike is important.
-
1 · Day
70%
Maintain humidity with humidity-retentive substrate and regular misting
-
2 · Mist
2–3× daily
Pump sprayer, fogger, and/or rain system — Reptisafe or bottled water
-
3 · Night
80% spike
Raise humidity in the evening — important for high-humidity species
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 12% UVB on the ceiling (straight or diagonal) · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 12% UV unit — ceiling-mounted (straight or diagonal); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Insect-led with optional plant matter and regular meat options. Dust every feed, gut-load insects well, and use the method of 5 while settling.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Type
- Insects + meat · plant matter if accepted
- Settling
- Method of 5 — feed 5 insects at a time
- Settled
- Often 10–20+ crickets daily · adults may need 1–2 food-free days/week
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
- Water
- Large cool-side bowl · drink + humidity · Reptisafe or bottled
Staple insects
Feed regularly · dust every feed
- Crickets, locusts, Dubia roaches
- Calci worms
- Vegetables if accepted (most will not eat them)
Occasional & meat
Moderation · enrichment
- Wax worms, mealworms, Morios — in moderation
- Mice, chicks, whole fish, eggs
- Small amounts of cat food
Supplements — every feeding
Dust every feeding — live foods and salads — with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix first, then coat the food every time you feed.
Settling appetite — method of 5
New Tegus are often stressed and may not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Until you know their habits, use the method of 5: offer five insects at a time and wait until they are eaten before adding more. That reduces leftover insects that can stress or injure the animal. Once settled, 10–20+ crickets daily is relatively common; adults often need one or two food-free days each week.
Feeding style
- Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment
- Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
- Great meat eaters — mice, chicks, fish, eggs and small amounts of cat food
Water
- Large cool-side bowl — preferably large enough to get into
- Helps drinking and raises humidity levels
- Reptisafe or bottled water only — never untreated tap
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
- Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
- Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
- A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Extremely intelligent lizards that can make excellent pets — with patience and time to gain their confidence.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the Tegu to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the Tegu becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your Tegu.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, humidity, UVB, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, humidity, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Hold humidity poorly and dry out quickly
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Tegu need?
For a single adult, a minimum of 96″ wide × 48″ tall × 48″ deep, or larger. Black and White Tegus reach about 4–5 ft; Red Tegus about 3–4 ft. Provide rocks, tunnels and multi-level climbing branches, artificial foliage, humidity-retentive substrate (coir mixed with orchid bark), and a large cool-side water bowl they can get into. Babies are easier to start in something smaller.
What temperatures does a Tegu need?
Set the thermostat probe to 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down. That creates a gradient of about 76 °F on the cool side, 86–88 °F in the middle, around 90–95 °F on the warm side, and a basking spot of about 110 °F under the bulb. At night reduce the thermostat to around 74 °F (23 °C).
How often should I mist a Tegu enclosure?
Spray the whole enclosure well two or three times a day with a pump sprayer (or use a fogger and/or rain system). Aim for about 70% humidity by day and 80% at night — the night-time spike is important for high-humidity species. Do not waterlog the substrate (fungus and mould can cause respiratory problems). Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water.
When can I start handling my Tegu?
Allow the Tegu to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Tegus are extremely intelligent and can make excellent pets with patience, but early handling can increase stress. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
What UVB do Tegus need?
A T5 unit with a 12% UV tube mounted on the ceiling — straight across the top or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent). Replace the tube every 12 months because UV output degrades. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What do Tegus eat?
Insects (crickets, locusts, Dubia, calci worms as staples; wax worms, mealworms and Morios in moderation) plus plant matter where accepted — most will not eat vegetables. They are also keen meat eaters: mice, chicks, small amounts of cat food, whole fish and eggs. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Use the “method of 5” while settling; settled animals may take 10–20+ crickets daily. Adults often need one or two food-free days per week.
Next steps
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