Decor
- Terrestrial: floor space over height; room to retreat into substrate
- Arboreal: vertical bark · planting toward the top
- Heat mat on the outside (back or side) on a mat-stat
- Space to complete a full moult without obstruction
Arachnids · Care guide
Theraphosidae
Over 800 species cover a wide range of environments worldwide. Temperaments run from very docile (Brazilian Black, Chile Rose) to very defensive (OBT, Cobalt Blue) — choosing the right first species is essential. This guide outlines basic husbandry for the group.
At a glance
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
Day target
78–82 °F
26–28 °C · mat-stat
Night drop
68–70 °F
20–21 °C · mat-stat
Housing
Terr. / Arb.
16×10×10 · 8×8×14
Diet
Live insects
Spiderlings 2× · adults 1× / week
01 · Housing
Match the enclosure style to your species: terrestrial (floor over height) or arboreal (height over floor). Most beginner terrestrial forms are not deep burrowers.
Terrestrial adult
16″ W × 10″ D × 10″ H
Typical beginner terrestrial tank with about 3″ of substrate so the spider can dig if it needs to escape heat or prepare to moult.
Arboreal adult
8″ W × 8″ D × 14″ H
Pink Toe-type beginners: more height than ground space. Vertical bark and planting toward the top; substrate depth is less important.
Housing diagram
Enclosure examples
Terrestrial adult ~16″ × 10″ × 10″ · arboreal ~8″ × 8″ × 14″ · match style to species
Setup diagram
Heat mat & thermostat
Outside back or side · never underneath · 78–82 °F day · 68–70 °F night
02 · Climate
Mild heat-mat control, careful humidity (humid but not wet), and treated water — heat mat only (no UV on this guide).
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 78–82 °F (26–28 °C) warm side creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cooler side | Away from mat (Gradient) |
| Warm side (mat) (thermostat probe target) | 78–82 °F (26–28 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by 68–70 °F (20–21 °C) at night · mat-stat drop |
Climate diagram
Humidity, water & moult safety
Humid · not waterlogged · dry between sprays · treated water only
03 · Nutrition
Right-sized live prey, sensible frequency, and strict moult rules — do not overfeed.
At a glance
Day-to-day
Critical timing
04 · Behaviour
We generally do not advocate handling — risk to both keeper and spider.
Docile options include Brazilian Black and Chile Rose; very defensive forms include OBT and Cobalt Blue. Pick a first species carefully.
Tarantulas do not enjoy being held. Spiderlings are less fragile from short falls; heavier adults can be killed by even a short drop if startled.
Bites can be very painful. Venom reactions vary; some long-term effects have been recorded in old-world species. No deaths have been recorded from a tarantula bite.
Wash or disinfect hands before and after any contact. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — those chemicals can be harmful.
05 · Welfare
Correct mild heat, careful humidity, safe water, moult protocol, and carcass removal keep tarantulas thriving with very low upkeep.
Heat-mat control on a mat-stat (never under the tank), humid-but-not-wet spraying, treated water, right-sized live prey, and prompt carcass removal cover almost all day-to-day welfare needs.
Questions
It depends on the species. Terrestrial beginners (most non-burrowers) suit an adult tank around 16″ wide × 10″ deep × 10″ tall with about 3″ of substrate. Arboreal beginners such as Pink Toes need more height than floor space — about 8″ × 8″ × 14″ tall with vertical bark and planting toward the top. Match terrestrial vs arboreal style to the spider you keep.
Most species need a heat mat unless the room is already consistently warm. Always put the mat on the outside of the tank, at the back or side — never underneath. Use a mat-stat with the probe/sensor taped by the heat mat. Aim for 78–82 °F (26–28 °C) by day and drop to 68–70 °F (20–21 °C) at night.
Most spiders need a humid environment, not a waterlogged tank. Spray carefully so the habitat can dry between sprays — constant wetness risks mould, fungus, bacterial infection and respiratory problems. A hygrometer helps. Use treated water only (Reptisafe or bottled water), never untreated tap water.
Live prey about one-third to half the size of the spider’s abdomen. Spiderlings twice per week and adults once per week is ideal; do not overfeed or they will hide more. Remove uneaten food carcasses promptly. After a moult, wait about a week before feeding so the new exoskeleton can harden. A shallow water bowl can go in immediately after a moult.
Tarantulas rarely die on their backs. If you see one on its back it is almost certainly moulting. The process can take from a few hours up to about 24 hours. Do not touch the spider. Remove any live food first — a moulting spider cannot defend itself. Wait about a week after the moult before offering food again.
As a general rule we do not advocate handling. Tarantulas do not enjoy being held; some tolerate it better than others, but there is still risk to you and the spider. Heavier adults can be killed by even a short fall if startled. Bites can be very painful; reactions to venom vary, and some long-term effects have been recorded in old-world species (no deaths recorded). Wash or disinfect hands before and after any contact. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
Next steps
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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