Decor
- Cork / tree-bark cover for cave and bark lifestyle
- Small shallow water bowl
- Heat mat along the back or side on a mat-stat
- Nocturnal — active at night inspecting and hunting
Arachnids · Care guide
Tailless Whip Scorpion Care Guide
Amblypygi
Looks prehistoric and intimidating, but completely harmless to humans. Not a true scorpion (Amblypygi) — an underrated, easy-care arboreal invertebrate for beginners and experienced keepers alike.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Warm end
74–76 °F
23–24 °C · mat-stat
-
Night drop
~65 °F
18 °C · mat-stat
-
Humidity
70–75%
Coir · moss · humid
-
Diet
Live insects
Crickets · locust · Dubia
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Arboreal humid setup: more height than ground area, cork and tree-bark cover, coir with moss for humidity, a small shallow water bowl, and a heat mat on the back or side.
Adult minimum size
8″ W × 8″ D × 12″ H
Arboreal — need more height than ground area. Recommended size or larger.
Substrate
- Humidity-retentive coir or coir + orchid bark
- Add moss to help hold humidity
- Target about 70–75% humidity
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
- Every 4–6 weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and enclosure
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 8″ × 12″ (depth 8″) · arboreal tall · heat mat on back/side · humid coir dig · small shallow water bowl
- Adult recommended — 8″ × 8″ × 12″ or larger (height over ground)
- Heat mat — along the back or side on a mat-stat
- Cover — cork / tree bark for arboreal cave lifestyle
- Substrate — coir or coir + orchid bark · moss for humidity
- Small shallow bowl — treated water only
- Humidity — about 70–75%
Setup diagram
Heat mat & thermostat
Mat on back or side · mat-stat · ~74–76 °F day · drop to ~65 °F night
- Mat — along the back or side of the enclosure
- Control — mat-stat thermostat required
- Day — about 74–76 °F (23–24 °C)
- Night — drop to about 65 °F (18 °C)
02 · Climate
Temperature, humidity & water
Mild heat-mat control, humid coir with moss at about 70–75%, and a small shallow bowl of treated water — heat mat only (no UV required).
Daytime warm end & night drop
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 74–76 °F (23–24 °C) warm end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cooler side | Away from mat (Gradient) |
| Warm end (mat) (thermostat probe target) | 74–76 °F (23–24 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~65 °F (18 °C) at night · mat-stat drop |
Heat
- Supplementary heat unless home is very warm
- Heat mat on back or side + mat-stat
- Day ~74–76 °F · night ~65 °F
Humidity
- Target about 70–75%
- Coir or coir + orchid bark with moss
- Warm humid caves, tree bark and leaf litter worldwide
- No UV required — heat mat only
Climate diagram
Humidity & water
Target ~70–75% · moss + coir · small shallow bowl · treated water only
- Humidity — about 70–75%
- Small shallow bowl — always present
- Substrate — coir or coir + orchid bark with moss
- No UV — heat mat only
Water safety
- Small shallow water bowl always available
- All water (spray and bowl) treated with a reptile-friendly dechlorinator
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Live insects sized to the animal — feed less often as they mature, watch the abdomen, and respect pre- and post-moult fasts.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Prey
- Live insects — crickets → locust, Dubia · occasional wax worm as adults
- Frequency
- Young 2–3× / week · juveniles 1× / week · adults every other week
- Size
- Prey appropriate to the whip scorpion’s size
- Rule of thumb
- Thin abdomen → feed more · round abdomen → feed less
Livefood progression
Livefood progression
- Younger animals — smaller crickets
- Adults — locust, Dubia
- Occasional wax worm as adults
After a feed or moult
Welfare checks
- Remove uneaten food after 24 hours
- After moult — wait 1–2 weeks before feeding
- May refuse food a few weeks before shed (normal)
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Completely harmless to people, but fragile — handle with great care if at all.
- Identity
Not a true scorpion
Amblypygi — completely harmless to humans. Prehistoric looks, underrated as an easy-care invertebrate for beginners or experienced keepers.
- Care
Fragile legs
They can be handled, but are quite fragile — legs damage easily. Handle only with great care.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling.
- Warning
No aerosols
No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can be harmful.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Correct mild heat, humid coir with moss, safe water, sensible feeding, and regular cleaning keep whip scorpions thriving.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Heat-mat control on a mat-stat, humidity about 70–75% with coir, orchid bark and moss, cork or tree-bark cover, treated water in a small shallow bowl, and daily spot cleaning keep tailless whip scorpions healthy.
Questions
FAQ
What size enclosure does a tailless whip scorpion need?
A recommended adult size is 8″ wide × 8″ deep × 12″ tall or larger. They are arboreal and need more height than ground area. Use humid-retentive coir or coir mixed with orchid bark, add moss to help hold humidity around 70–75%, provide cork or tree-bark cover for their cave lifestyle, a small shallow water bowl, and a heat mat on the back or side on a mat-stat.
How do I heat a tailless whip scorpion setup?
They need supplementary heating unless your home is already very warm. Place a heat mat along the back or side of the enclosure on a mat-stat. Set about 74–76 °F (23–24 °C) by day and drop to about 65 °F (18 °C) at night.
What humidity do tailless whip scorpions need?
They live in warm humid caves, tree bark and leaf litter across Asia, Africa and the Americas. Use coir or coir + orchid bark with moss and aim for about 70–75% humidity. All spray and bowl water should be treated with a reptile-safe dechlorinator.
What do tailless whip scorpions eat?
A variety of livefood sized to the animal: smaller crickets when young, progressing to locusts, Dubia, and the occasional wax worm as adults. Youngsters 2–3 times a week, juveniles once a week, full adults every other week. If the abdomen looks thin, feed more; if round, feed less. Remove uneaten food after 24 hours. After a moult, wait one to two weeks before feeding so the exoskeleton can harden. They may also refuse food for a few weeks before shedding — that is normal.
Can I handle a tailless whip scorpion?
They can be handled carefully, but they are fragile — their legs damage easily. They are completely harmless to humans. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
Are tailless whip scorpions real scorpions?
No. They are not true scorpions (Amblypygi). They look prehistoric and intimidating but are completely harmless to people, and make an underrated, easy-care invertebrate for beginners or experienced keepers.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Tailless Whip Scorpion?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
More in Arachnids
