Decor
- Largely terrestrial — floor space matters more than height
- Hides, tunnels, rocks and fallen branches for exploration
- Wet box so they have a humid area to retreat to if they wish
- Artificial foliage — aesthetically pleasing cover
Lizards · Care guide
Sudan Plated Lizard Care Guide
Broadleysaurus major
Native to eastern and central Africa. Usually wild caught, and even then usually even tempered and handleable — overall a lovely lizard.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
84–86 °F
29–30 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
Around 74 °F
23 °C · about 10 °F down
-
Diet
Insects first
Occasional vegetables · dust every feed
-
UVB
T5 ceiling
Straight or diagonal · replace yearly
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Active, largely terrestrial lizards from eastern and central Africa. Give floor space, hides, tunnels, rocks and fallen branches, a wet box, dry substrate, and a solid temperature gradient.
Adult enclosure size
48″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H
Minimum for a single or a pair (4′ × 2′ × 2′). They are quite active, so one of the larger vivarium sizes is more appropriate.
Substrate
- Dry substrate — pelleted straw bedding or coarser desert sand
- Avoid fine mineral sands — impaction risk
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 24″) · hides · tunnels · rocks · fallen branches · wet box · foliage · dry substrate
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 24″ tall (2:1); depth 24″ — adult minimum
- Branches & tunnel — fallen branches and an open tunnel for enrichment
- Hides, rocks & wet box — rocks, hides, and a wet box as a humid retreat
- Foliage — artificial plants for a naturalistic look
- Substrate — dry pelleted straw or coarser desert sand; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks
- Water bowl — small cool-end dish; treated or bottled water only, never straight from the tap
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature & UVB
Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, and ceiling-mounted T5 UV are essential for metabolism, appetite, and calcium use.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~82 °F (~28 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) |
| Middle | 94–96 °F (34–36 °C) |
| Warm side | 100–105 °F (38–41 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | 110–115 °F (43–46 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by About 10 °F down, to around 74 °F (23 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours
- Night: about 10 °F down, to around 74 °F (23 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard
UVB lighting
- Recommended T5 unit mounted on the ceiling
- Fit straight across or diagonally — lighting falls nicely either way
- Aim the power unit at the back corner near an outlet or vent so cables do not trail across the ceiling
- Replace every 12 months — UV output diminishes to a large extent
- Match UV on/off to heat (morning on, evening off)
- UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 UVB on the ceiling (straight or diagonal) · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 UV unit — ceiling-mounted, straight across or diagonal so the power unit sits toward the back corner; UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Insect-led, with vegetables offered regularly even though they are not great veg feeders. Dust every feed.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Method
- Method of 5 — five insects at a time, then more only once those are eaten
- Adults
- Appetite drops with size — most are happier every other day
- Staples
- Crickets, locusts, calci worms and vegetables, fed regularly
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
- Water
- Small bowl — treated or bottled water only, never straight from the tap
Staple foods
Feed regularly
- Crickets and locusts
- Calci worms
- Vegetables — they will take some, even if they are not great veg feeders
- Dust every feed
In moderation
Not everyday staples
- Waxworms
- Mealworms
- Morios
- Always gut-load live foods well
Supplements — every feeding
Before feeding live foods or salads, coat them with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (four parts calcium to one part Nutrobal). Dust every feed.
Settling in — method of 5
A new plated lizard will likely be stressed and not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases. Until you know how many insects are needed, feed five at a time and wait until you see them eaten before adding more. That keeps uneaten insects from building up and stressing the animal. Adults are usually happier fed every other day.
Water
- A small water bowl is fine for drinking
- Treated or bottled water only — never straight from the tap
- The same rule applies to water sprayed onto the moss in the wet box
Gut-load insects before offering any live food — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
- Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
- Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
- A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
Plant matter & Ca:P lists Supermarket, garden plants, and foods to avoid
They are not known as great vegetable feeders, but they will take some occasionally. Use as many listed foods as possible and alternate for calcium-to-phosphorus balance. Naturally growing weeds and herbs are excellent when safe. Always double-check any plant before offering.
Good calcium to low phosphorus
Apricots, basil, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli tops, cantaloupe, carrots/carrot tops*, chicory, Chinese cabbage, clover, dandelion leaves and flowers, escarole, figs and fig leaves, green onion, leeks, okra, oranges, papaya, parsley, pea pods (not peas), rosemary, sow thistle, turnip greens, watercress, continental lettuces (romaine, cos, frisée, endive, radicchio, lollo rosso), and suitable leaves: mulberry, grape, ficus, rose, hibiscus and Opuntia cactus. *Carrots and carrot tops not in high concentration (tannins).
Marginal Ca:P
Apple (no pips), aubergine, celery leaf only, pears, radish, sweet potato.
Poor Ca:P / high phosphorus — use sparingly
Asparagus, aubergine, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, grapes, peaches, plums, squash, strawberries, tomato. Cabbage, squash and aubergine bind calcium with oxalic acid — only occasionally.
Generally exclude
Beans, rhubarb, spinach, beet greens, Swiss chard, cauliflower, cabbage, mustard greens, peas, collard greens, soy meal/beans, banana.
Garden plants often listed as safe
Carnations/Dianthus, Dracaena, Echeveria/succulents, ficus leaves and flowers, geranium leaves and flowers, grape berries and leaves (Vitis), hibiscus, impatiens, maple leaves, nasturtiums, oregano, petunia, phlox, pinks, rose petals, Soleirolia, viola/pansy/violets (not African). Always double-check any plant before offering.
Toxic / avoid
Apple bark, leaves and seeds, burdock, buttercup, cherry, clematis, crocus, daffodil, eggplant, elderberry, holly, horse chestnut, hyacinth, hydrangea, iris, lily of the valley, mistletoe, narcissus, oak, oleander, peach, peony, poinsettia, potato, primrose, privet, rhododendron, shamrock, snowdrop, sorrel, sweet pea, tomato plant, tulip, Virginia creeper, and some varieties of rosemary and sage — verify before use.
Always dust plant and insect foods with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Usually even tempered and handleable. Still let a new animal settle and eat before you start.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UV keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
If you have questions about setup or husbandry, contact the team before changing methods. Our advice comes from over 20 years of in-store experience.
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Sudan Plated Lizard need?
For a single or pair, the minimum vivarium is 4′ × 2′ × 2′ (48″ wide × 24″ deep × 24″ tall). They are quite active and largely terrestrial, so the larger floor space matters. Provide hides, tunnels, rocks and fallen branches, artificial foliage, a wet box, and dry substrate (pelleted straw or coarser desert sand).
What temperatures does a Sudan Plated Lizard need?
Set the thermostat probe to 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 82 °F on the cool side, 94–96 °F in the middle, around 100–105 °F on the warm side, and a basking spot of about 110–115 °F under the bulb. Turn the thermostat down about 10 °F at night, to around 74 °F (23 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What UV do Sudan Plated Lizards need?
A T5 unit mounted on the ceiling, fitted straight across or diagonally so the power unit can sit in the back corner near an outlet or vent. UV is essential: UVA supports appetite and activity, and UVB lets the body make vitamin D3 so calcium can be absorbed. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule, and replace the tube every 12 months.
How often should I feed a Sudan Plated Lizard?
Until you know the animal’s appetite, use the method of 5: offer five insects, wait until they are eaten, then offer more. Crickets, locusts, calci worms and vegetables are staples; waxworms, mealworms and morios are for moderation. Adults usually do better fed every other day. Dust every feed with a 4:1 mix of calcium to Nutrobal. They are not great vegetable feeders, but they will take some occasionally.
When can I start handling my Sudan Plated Lizard?
They are usually even tempered and handleable, but still let a new animal settle and start eating regularly before handling. Early sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Sudan Plated Lizard?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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