Solomon Island Ground Boa (Candoia paulsoni) in a humid vivarium setup

Snakes · Care guide

Solomon Island Ground Boa Care Guide

Candoia paulsoni

Pacific Island Candoia about 4 ft (females larger) that climb nearly as much as tree boas. Adult vivarium 36″ × 24″ × 24″ (3×2×2 ft · height preferred), cool-end probe 78–80 °F, Shadedweller Max UV, coir and orchid bark, humidity about 60–70% day / over 90% night with night spray priority, a large soak bowl, and a rodent diet sized to girth.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    78–80 °F

    26–27 °C · cool-end sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~70 °F · ~21 °C

  • Humidity

    60–70 / 90%+

    Day / night · spray 1–2×

  • Adult vivarium

    36×24×24

    W×D×H inches · (3×2×2 ft · height preferred)

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

High-humidity Pacific Island boas that like to hide by day and climb nearly as much as tree boas. Give generous floor cover — hides on both ends, branches and tunnels, artificial plants, humid coir and orchid bark, and a large cool-side soak bowl. Adult minimum 36″ × 24″ × 24″ (3×2×2 ft) with height preferred.

Adult minimum size

36″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H

3×2×2 ft minimum with height preferred for climbing. Heat bulb with cool-end probe method, Shadedweller Max UV, humid coir and orchid bark, and a large cool-side soak bowl (Candoia like to submerge).

Decor

  • Minimum 2 hides — one cool side, one hot side
  • Fill the ground with hides, branches and tunnels — the more cover, the more secure they feel
  • Artificial plants for natural aesthetic appeal
  • Climbing branches — ground boas that climb nearly as much as tree boas
  • Large water bowl — cool side; big enough to submerge

Substrate

  • Humid retentive mix — coir mixed with orchid bark works well
  • High-humidity snake — substrate should hold moisture between sprays

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every 4–6 weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 36″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 24″) · hides · branches · tunnels · foliage · cool water bowl · humid coir and bark

Example Solomon Island Ground Boa vivarium front view at 36 inches wide by 24 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Solomon Island Ground Boa vivarium at 36 by 24 inch proportions (3:2 front). Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, Shadedweller Max UV on the ceiling, climbing branches (ground boa that climbs nearly as much as a tree boa), hides on warm and cool ends, an open arched tunnel, artificial plants, a large cool-end soak bowl (Candoia like to submerge), and humid coir mixed with orchid bark substrate. Depth is 24 inches. Adult minimum 36 by 24 by 24 inches (3×2×2 ft) minimum with height preferred for climbing. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 3:2 36″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H 24″ tall 36″ wide · depth 24″ · height 24″ Branches Foliage Hides Tunnel Large bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 36″ wide × 24″ tall (3:2) adult minimum 3×2×2 ft; depth 24″
  • Hides, branches & tunnels — fill the floor so this high-humidity boa feels secure
  • Hides — minimum two: one cool side, one hot side
  • Water bowl — cool side; replace daily with de-chlorinated water
  • Humidity — ~60–70% day / over 90% night; spray 1–2× daily with night priority; fogger or spray system optional
  • Substrate — coir mixed with orchid bark; daily spot clean, full clean about every 4–6 weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe cool end · back wall 2–3″ from substrate WARM COOL ≈ ¼ cool end

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall on the cool end opposite the heat, with the sensor tip about two to three inches above the substrate. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side 2–3″ Thermostat probe cool end · from vent cover 2–3″ above substrate WARM COOL ≈ ¼ cool end
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — cold end (opposite heat), hanging from the top ventilation cover about 2–3″ from the substrate

02 · Climate

Temperature, humidity & UVB

Cool-end probe 78–80 °F with a clear cool-to-warm gradient, Shadedweller Max UV, and high humidity (~60–70% day / over 90% night) with a night spray priority.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~76 °F (~24 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 78–80 °F (26–27 °C)
Middle 84–86 °F (29–30 °C)
Warm side 90–92 °F (32–33 °C)
Basking spot ~95 °F (~35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~70 °F (~21 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to about 70 °F (~21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller Max — recommended even though snakes are generally nocturnal
  • They may access UV in daylight (even while resting with part of the body exposed)
  • Mount on the ceiling of the vivarium
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Shadedweller Max on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: Shadedweller Max on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Solomon Island Ground Boa vivarium. A Shadedweller Max UV unit sits on the ceiling. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. CEILING FLOOR Shadedweller Max Ceiling mount · for snakes Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (UV HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller Max — ceiling-mounted; snakes may access UV during daylight even when largely nocturnal
  • Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
  • Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
  • Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F in the evening so metabolism can slow

Humidity & water

  • Daytime as low as 60–70%; rise to over 90% at night as much as possible
  • Spray 1–2× daily with night spray most important; spray systems and foggers can help
  • Cool-side water bowl for drinking; replace daily with de-chlorinated water (e.g. Reptisafe)
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and cool-end sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults 1×/week · adults every 2–3 weeks
Food size
Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Prey size & schedule

Relative to girth · ask staff if sizing is unclear

  • Young growing snakes — twice a week
  • Sub-adults — about once a week
  • Adults — every 2–3 weeks (slow metabolism)
  • Aim for a mouse or rat roughly as thick as the snake’s body (not head size)
  • Move up a size if a meal leaves no noticeable bulge a few hours after eating
  • Defrost pinkies at room temperature; large or jumbo rats take longer

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse or rat away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • Drink from a water bowl — place on the cool side
  • Replace water daily
  • Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first — they can be a little feisty initially. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Solomon Island Ground Boa need?

Adult minimum is a vivarium 36″ wide × 24″ deep × 24″ tall with height preferred for climbing. Solomon Island Ground Boas are a Candoia family from Pacific islands off New Guinea and Indonesia — about 4 ft (females larger); five other subspecies share this husbandry. Use humid coir mixed with orchid bark, at least two hides (cool and hot), branches and tunnels, artificial plants, and a large cool-side soak bowl (Candoia like to submerge). Heat bulb with cool-end probe method (sensor opposite heat, 2–3″ from substrate) and Shadedweller Max UV.

What temperatures does a Solomon Island Ground Boa need?

Set the cool-end thermostat probe to 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side, halfway front–back, and the probe on the opposite cold end hanging from the top ventilation cover about two to three inches from the substrate. That creates a gradient of about 76 °F cool, 84–86 °F middle, 90–92 °F warm, and around 95 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 70 °F (21 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

What humidity do they need?

They need high humidity. Daytime can be as low as 60–70%, rising to over 90% at night as much as possible. Spray 1–2 times a day with the night spray most important — that night spike matches wild conditions and supports the respiratory system. Spray systems and foggers can help. Use humid coir mixed with orchid bark.

What UV and photoperiod do they need?

Although boas are nocturnal, we recommend UV systems — research has found they access UV rays at some point during daylight hours, even while resting with part of the body exposed. Use a Shadedweller Max. Mount on the ceiling. Daytime heat 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

When can I start handling my Solomon Island Ground Boa?

Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24–48 hours after feeding before handling so digestion is not interrupted. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Solomon Island Ground Boa?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about once a week; adults every 2–3 weeks (slow metabolism). Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.

Next steps

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