Sand Boa (Eryx / Gongylophis ssp.) in a dry vivarium setup

Snakes · Care guide

Sand Boa Care Guide

Eryx / Gongylophis ssp.

Many species of sand boa (Eryx / Gongylophis) from dry sandy habitats worldwide share the same husbandry. Most reach about 2 ft (Indian sand boa up to ~4 ft). Dry heat with a probe target of 80 °F, a humid hide for burrow-style humidity, and a rodent diet sized to girth — docile and straightforward when kept correctly.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    80 °F

    27 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~70 °F · ~21 °C

  • Diet

    Rodents

    By girth · size stages

  • Adult size

    ~2 ft

    Indian spp. up to ~4 ft

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Fossorial dry-habitat boas that burrow for humidity as well as security. Dry desert-style substrate, a humid hide, cool-side water bowl, and a clear temperature gradient. Smaller species from 36″ × 18″ × 18″; larger forms progressively larger.

Adult minimum size

36″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Smaller species minimum; larger forms progressively larger (Indian sand boa can reach ~4 ft). Dry setup with heat bulb, humid hide, and cool-side water bowl.

Decor

  • Humid hide — for shed and everyday humidity choice
  • In the wild they dig burrows to depths where humidity is higher — the hide replaces that option
  • Staff can advise on suitable decor and placements for your setup
  • Water bowl on the cool side — replace daily

Substrate

  • Dry substrates — desert sand is a favourite among keepers
  • Deep enough to allow natural burrowing behaviour
  • Balance diggability with impaction risk — see Health

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 36″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · dry substrate · humid hide · cool water bowl

Example Sand Boa vivarium front view at 36 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of a smaller-species adult Sand Boa vivarium at 36 by 18 inch proportions (2:1 front). Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, deep dry desert-style substrate for burrowing, a humid hide with damp moss for humidity choice, and a water bowl on the cool-end floor. Depth is 18 inches. Smaller species adult minimum 36 by 18 by 18 inches; larger forms progressively larger. SMALLER SPP. MINIMUM · FRONT 2:1 36″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H 18″ tall 36″ wide · depth 18″ · height 18″ Humid hide Water bowl Dry / desert sand WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 36″ wide × 18″ tall (2:1); depth 18″ — smaller species minimum; larger forms progressively larger
  • Substrate — dry desert-style bedding; desert sand is a favourite among keepers for burrowing
  • Humid hide — for shed and everyday humidity choice (wild burrows reach damp layers)
  • Water bowl — cool side; replace daily with de-chlorinated or bottled water

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature & photoperiod

Dry heat with a clear cool-to-warm gradient (probe 80 °F · cool ~78 · mid 86–88 · warm 90–92 · bask ~95 °F) and a humid hide so the snake can choose humidity rather than high ambient moisture.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80 °F (27 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~78 °F (~26 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 80 °F (27 °C)
Middle 86–88 °F (30–31 °C)
Warm side 90–92 °F (32–33 °C)
Basking spot ~95 °F (~35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~70 °F (~21 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 70 °F (~21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

Heat setup

  • Heat bulb about one-quarter from one side, halfway front–back
  • Probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor
  • Recommended temps only apply with this placement
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer

Climate diagram

Heat & photoperiod

Heat dome on the warm side · day length 12 h winter / up to 16 h summer

Vivarium heat setup: heat dome on warm side and day-length bars Front view of a Sand Boa vivarium. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side of the ceiling, about one-quarter from the left. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. Night reduction is about 10 degrees Fahrenheit to around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. CEILING FLOOR Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); probe on the opposite side a few inches from the floor
  • Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
  • Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F to about 70 °F (~21 °C) so metabolism can slow
  • Probe target — 80 °F (27 °C) by day with the ¼/¼ placement method

Dry habitat · humid hide

  • Dry sandy habitats worldwide — use a dry desert-style substrate
  • Provide a humid hide to retreat to — not only in shed, but at other times too
  • In the wild they dig burrows to depths where humidity is higher; the hide gives that choice in captivity
  • Cool-side water bowl; replace daily with de-chlorinated or bottled water
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 80 °F (27 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Straightforward feeders that almost invariably feed well when kept correctly. Rodent feeders sized to girth — settle first, then build a steady schedule.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
Food size
Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Prey size stages

Guide as the snake grows — size relative to girth

Prey Frequency
1 pinkie 2× per week
2 pinkies 2× per week
1 fluff 2× per week
2 fluffs Every 5 days
1 hop Every 5 days
1 small mouse Every 7 days
1 medium mouse Every 7–10 days
1 large mouse Every 10–12 days
1 extra-large mouse Every 14 days

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Replace water daily
  • Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Very tolerant of handling and extremely docile when settled. Patience first — regular feeding comes before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures and hydration keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Sand Boa need?

Minimum recommended is 36″ × 18″ × 18″ for smaller species, then progressively larger for bigger forms (Indian sand boas can reach about 4 ft). Use a dry desert-style substrate with a humid hide so they can retreat for humidity when shedding and at other times. Cool-side water bowl, heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method, and daily spot cleaning.

What temperatures does a Sand Boa need?

Set the thermostat probe to 80 °F (27 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 78 °F cool, 86–88 °F middle, 90–92 °F warm, and around 95 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 70 °F (21 °C).

What photoperiod do they need?

Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are naturally longer. A clear day/night temperature difference lets metabolism slow at night so the body can rest.

How big do Sand Boas get?

Most species only grow to around 2 ft, though the Indian sand boa can reach about 4 ft. They are relatively small to medium snakes, straightforward to keep, very tolerant of handling, and extremely docile when kept correctly.

When can I start handling my Sand Boa?

Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling so digestion is not interrupted. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Sand Boa?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about once every five days; adults about once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size). Move up a size if a meal leaves no noticeable bulge a few hours after eating. Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning.

Next steps

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