Decor
- Sturdy multi-level branches for climbing and resting
- Artificial plants for aesthetics
- Large cool-side water bowl — preferably large enough to fit into; good swimmers
Lizards · Care guide
Sailfin Dragon Care Guide
Hydrosaurus ssp.
Mangrove-swamp lizards from the Philippines, New Guinea and Indonesia. Five main species range about 2–4 ft overall; with regular interaction they often become very tame. They need a tall humid vivarium and a large water bowl for swimming.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
80–82 °F
27–28 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~6 °C · about 70 °F / 21 °C
-
Humidity
70% / 80%
Day / night · mangrove humidity
-
UVB
T5 6%
Ceiling-mounted tube
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Sailfin Dragons are arboreal mangrove lizards — they spend most of their time (and sleep) in trees. Prioritise height as well as floor space, and plan for a large cool-side water bowl.
Adult minimum size
48″ W × 24″ D × 36″ H
Smaller species · start smaller for babies and juveniles
8 ft L × 6 ft H × 3 ft D
Larger species minimum · tall as well as wide for all Sailfins
Substrate
- High-humidity mix — coir + orchid bark recommended
- Many good commercial high-humidity options exist
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- Every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 24″) · smaller-species adult minimum · large water bowl
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 36″ tall (4:3); depth 24″
- Branches — sturdy, at different levels for climbing, resting, and sleeping
- Plants — artificial plants for aesthetics and cover
- Water bowl — large cool-side dish for drinking and swimming (preferably large enough to fit into)
- Substrate — high-humidity mix (coir + orchid bark recommended); daily spot clean, full clean every six weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature, UVB & humidity
Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, UVB, and steady humidity are essential for metabolism and long-term health.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80–82 °F (27–28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~78 °F (~26 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 80–82 °F (27–28 °C) |
| Middle | 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) |
| Warm side | 90–95 °F (32–35 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | ~100 °F (~38 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 70 °F (~21 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to about 70 °F (21 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for rest
UVB lighting
- Recommended T5 6% UV tube for Sailfins
- Mount on the ceiling — straight across or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent)
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
- UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
Humidity
Aim for 70% by day and 80% at night. High humidity is very important for mangrove Sailfins, and the night-time spike matters for high-humidity species.
- Mist the whole enclosure well twice daily with a pump sprayer
- Fogger and/or rain systems are also excellent options (some keepers use both)
- They do not need high humidity all the time — allow occasional dry-out during the day
- Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water
Daily humidity cycle
Target 70% day / 80% night — the night spike is important.
-
1 · Day
70%
Allow occasional dry-out — not high humidity every hour of the day
-
2 · Mist
Twice daily
Pump sprayer, fogger, and/or rain system — Reptisafe or bottled water
-
3 · Night
80% spike
Raise humidity in the evening — important for high-humidity species
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 6% UVB on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat schedule
- T5 6% UV tube — ceiling-mounted; UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Omnivorous — live food and vegetation. Dust every feed, gut-load insects well, and vary plant matter using the Ca:P lists below.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Type
- Omnivore — live food and plant matter
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
- Plants
- Vary items from the Ca:P lists · weeds and herbs excellent when safe
- Water
- Large cool-side bowl — drink and swim · Reptisafe or bottled
Supplements — every feeding
Dust every feeding — live foods and salads — with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix first, then coat the food every time you feed.
Settling appetite
New Sailfin Dragons often will not eat well for the first day or so. This is perfectly normal. Once settled and happy, appetite usually increases. Offer both live food and vegetation as they settle.
Live food
- Part of an omnivorous diet alongside vegetation
- Always dust and gut-load before offering
Water
- Large cool-side bowl — preferably large enough to fit into
- Good swimmers in the wild — occasional baths are also relished
- Reptisafe or bottled water only — not untreated tap water
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
- Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
- Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
- A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals
Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
Plant matter & Ca:P lists Supermarket, garden plants, and foods to avoid
Sailfin Dragons are omnivorous — live food and vegetation. Use as many listed plant items as possible and alternate often for calcium-to-phosphorus balance. Naturally growing weeds and herbs are excellent when safe. Always dust plant and insect foods with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
Good calcium to low phosphorus (examples)
Apricots, basil, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli tops, cantaloupe, carrots/carrot tops*, chicory, Chinese cabbage, clover, dandelion leaves and flowers, escarole, figs and fig leaves, green onion, leeks, okra, oranges, papaya, parsley, pea pods (not peas), rosemary, sow thistle, turnip greens, watercress, continental lettuces (romaine, cos, frisée, endive, radicchio, lollo rosso), mulberry, grape, ficus, rose, hibiscus, and opuntia cactus leaves. *Carrots/carrot tops not in high concentration (tannins).
Marginal Ca:P
Apple (no pips), aubergine, celery leaf only, pears, radish, sweet potato.
Poor Ca:P / high phosphorus — use sparingly
Asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, grapes, peaches, plums, squash, strawberries, tomato.
Generally exclude (oxalates / goitrogens / similar concerns)
Beans, rhubarb, spinach, beet greens, Swiss chard, cauliflower, cabbage, mustard greens, peas, collard greens, soy meal/beans, banana.
Garden plants often listed as safe
Carnations/dianthus, dracaena, echeveria/succulents, ficus, geranium, grape (Vitis), hibiscus, impatiens, maple leaves, nasturtiums, oregano, petunia, phlox, pinks, rose petals, soleirolia, viola/pansy/violets (not African). Always double-check any plant before offering.
Toxic / avoid
Apple bark/leaves/seeds, burdock, buttercup, cherry, clematis, crocus, daffodil, eggplant, elderberry, holly, horse chestnut, hyacinth, hydrangea, iris, lily of the valley, mistletoe, narcissus, oak, oleander, peach, peony, poinsettia, potato, primrose, privet, rhododendron, shamrock, snowdrop, sorrel, sweet pea, tomato plant, tulip, Virginia creeper — and some rosemary/sage varieties (verify before use).
Always dust plant and insect foods with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse. They are renowned for sulking when new — this is normal.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, humidity, UVB, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, humidity, supplementation, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Hold humidity poorly and dry out quickly
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed; insects may contact waste)
Questions
FAQ
How often should I mist a Sailfin Dragon enclosure?
Spray the whole enclosure well twice daily with a pump sprayer (or use a fogger and/or rain system). Aim for about 70% humidity by day and 80% at night — the night-time spike is important for high-humidity mangrove species. Allow occasional dry-out during the day. Do not waterlog the substrate (fungus and mould can cause respiratory problems). Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water.
When can I start handling my Sailfin Dragon?
Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. With regular interaction they often become very tame. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
What UVB do Sailfin Dragons need?
A T5 unit with a 6% UV tube mounted on the ceiling of the vivarium — straight across or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent). Replace the tube every 12 months because UV output degrades. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What size vivarium does a Sailfin Dragon need?
For smaller species, adult minimum is 48″ wide × 24″ deep × 36″ tall (tall as well as wide — they are arboreal). Start smaller for babies and juveniles. For larger species, recommend a minimum adult enclosure of 8 ft long × 6 ft high × 3 ft deep. Use sturdy multi-level branches, artificial plants, high-humidity substrate (coir and orchid bark), and a large cool-side water bowl they can fit into.
What do Sailfin Dragons eat?
They are omnivorous — live food and vegetation. Dust every feed (insects and salads) with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Gut-load insects well. Use a wide variety of plant foods from the calcium-to-phosphorus lists in this guide, alternating often; naturally growing weeds and herbs are excellent when safe. Provide a large cool-side water bowl for drinking and swimming; occasional baths are also relished.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Sailfin Dragon?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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