Decor
- Minimum two hides — one cold side, one hot side
- Fill the floor with hides, branches and tunnels so they feel secure
- Sturdy climbing branches for exploration
- Artificial plants for a natural look
Snakes · Care guide
Russian Black Rat Snake Care Guide
Elaphe schrenkii
Endemic to Russia, China, Korea and Mongolia. A medium to large diurnal snake, averaging 4–5 ft, curious and always exploring.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
76–78 °F
24–26 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
Around 66 °F
19 °C · about 10 °F down
-
Diet
Rodent feeders
Thawed prey · sized to girth
-
UVB
T5 6%
Diurnal · ceiling-mounted
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Active diurnal climbers from mountains, forests, swamps and cool forested regions. Give floor space, sturdy branches, hides and a humidity-retentive substrate that can dry out by day.
Adult enclosure size
48″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H
Minimum (4′ × 2′ × 2′), or larger as you desire. They are not huge snakes, but they are very active and love to climb.
Substrate & humidity
- Humidity-retentive mix — coir with orchid bark works very well
- Spray once a day — the night spray is the most important
- Daytime can be as low as 60% and should dry out at times
- Night spike over 75%
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 24″) · hides · branches · tunnels · foliage · cool water bowl · humid coir and bark
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 24″ tall (2:1) adult minimum or more; depth 24″
- Hides, branches & tunnels — fill the floor, then add sturdy climbing branches
- Hides — minimum two: one cool side, one hot side
- Water bowl — large cool-end pool for a soak or swim; replace daily
- Humidity — daytime can be as low as 60% and must dry out at times; night spike over 75%; spray once a day, night spray most important
- Substrate — coir mixed with orchid bark; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — cold end (opposite heat), hanging from the top ventilation cover about 2–3″ from the substrate
02 · Climate
Temperature, UV & humidity
A cooler gradient than most pet snakes, a clear night drop, and T5 6% because they are out by day.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool end | 72–74 °F (22–23 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) |
| Basking area (hottest point under bulb) | 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by About 10 °F down, to around 66 °F (19 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours
- Night: about 10 °F down, to around 66 °F (19 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow so the body can rest
UV lighting
- Diurnal — they benefit greatly from UV
- Recommended T5 kit at 6% output on the ceiling
- Match UV on/off to the heat schedule
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 6% on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 6% UV — ceiling-mounted; diurnal snakes benefit greatly from UV
- Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); cool-end probe opposite
- Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Night drop — reduce thermostat about 10 °F to around 66 °F
Humidity cycle
- Day: can be as low as 60% — it needs to dry out at times
- Night: rise to over 75%
- Spray once a day. The night spray is the most important — that spike is what happens in the wild
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Rodent feeders. Size prey to girth, feed in the evening, and do not panic if a meal is missed.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Prey
- Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
- Young
- Twice a week while there is a lot of growing to do
- Sub-adults
- Every five days
- Adults
- Once a week
- Size
- About as thick as the snake’s girth — not the head
Settling in
A new snake will likely be stressed and not eat well for the first week. Allow it to settle before offering food. If a meal is not eaten by morning, throw it away and try again on the next feed day.
How to offer food
- Plan defrosting so you can feed in the evening or overnight
- Pinkies thaw quickly at room temperature; large or jumbo mice take much longer
- Some take food from tweezers; some prefer it left on the floor overnight
- Move up a size if a meal leaves no noticeable bulge a few hours later — ask staff if unsure
Water
- Cool-side bowl, big enough for a soak or swim
- Usually found around lake areas — a decent pool is a benefit
- Replace daily
- De-chlorinator, bottled, or water stood for 24 hours — never straight from the tap
When they stop eating
Snakes naturally go off food at times. Breeding season is one — males especially can refuse for many months. The most usual period is shedding (slough), which can take 1–2 weeks.
- Skin looks dull, the belly looks creamy, then the eyes go blue — the height of the shed, when they usually will not feed
- Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer, then about 2–3 days until the shed. That clearer spell is the old skin lifting
- Do not offer food during the shed. Wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due day
- Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a timetable in the wild
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Curious and active by day. Still wait for regular feeding before you start handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Wait until the snake is eating regularly — at least two successful feeds — before handling. Early handling adds stress.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after a meal.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your snake.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
The two risks this setup is built to avoid: constant damp, and fine mineral sand.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
If you have questions about setup or husbandry, contact the team before changing methods. Our advice comes from over 20 years of in-store experience.
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Russian Black Rat Snake need?
Minimum 4′ × 2′ × 2′ (48″ wide × 24″ deep × 24″ tall), or larger. They are not huge snakes, but they are very active and love to climb. Provide at least two hides (one cool, one hot), and fill the floor with hides, branches and tunnels, plus sturdy climbing branches and artificial plants.
What temperatures does a Russian Black Rat Snake need?
Set the thermostat probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, a few inches from the floor. That gives a cool end of 72–74 °F and a basking area of 84–86 °F. Turn the thermostat down about 10 °F at night, to around 66 °F (19 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
Do Russian Black Rat Snakes need UV?
Yes. They are diurnal, unlike most snakes, and benefit greatly from UV. A T5 kit at 6% output, mounted on the ceiling, is recommended. Match the UV on/off to the heat schedule.
How humid should the enclosure be?
They like it fairly humid, but it must dry out at times. Daytime humidity can be as low as 60%. Constant damp can cause respiratory problems and increase bacteria. Spray once a day — the night spray is the most important — so humidity rises to over 75% at night. Use a humidity-retentive substrate such as coir mixed with orchid bark.
How often should I feed a Russian Black Rat Snake?
Allow a new snake to settle for about a week before the first feed. Young snakes twice a week, sub-adults every five days, adults once a week. Size prey to the snake’s girth, not the head. Always feed thawed frozen prey. If it is not eaten by morning, throw it away and try on the next feed day. Wait about 24 hours after a meal before handling.
Next steps
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