Red Eyed Crocodile Skink in a rainforest-style tank

Skinks · Care guide

Red Eyed Crocodile Skink Care Guide

Tribolonotus gracilis

Nocturnal/crepuscular rainforest skinks from New Guinea (about 6–8″). Glass tank with a heat mat on the back, terrestrial Shadedweller UV, cork hides, and humidity about 60–70% with a night spray spike.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Hot-end probe

    82 °F

    28 °C · at the heat mat

  • Night drop

    ~64 °F

    ~18 °C · ~10 °F ambient

  • Humidity

    60–70%

    Spray 1–2× · night spike

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Terrestrial form

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Small rainforest skinks (about 6–8″). Single adult minimum is an 18″ cube; pairs need at least 24″ width. Heat with a mat on the back of the glass, cork hides, fallen branches, foliage, and coir mixed with orchid bark.

Adult minimum size

18″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Single adult minimum (or larger). For a pair use at least 24″ × 18″ × 18″. Adults about 6–8″. Warmth from a heat mat, not a basking bulb.

Decor

  • Cork bark and hides — natural cover they use heavily
  • Fallen branches for hiding and light climbing enrichment
  • Foliage for aesthetics and extra seclusion
  • Heat mat on the back of the glass · probe at the hot end with the mat
  • Cool-side water bowl (de-chlorinated water only)

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix — coir and coarse orchid bark (bio substrates also work)
  • Mist thoroughly but do not waterlog — fungus and mould risk respiratory issues
  • Full bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew can work very well

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 18″ × 18″ (depth 18″) · heat mat on back glass · cork hides · branches · foliage · cool-side water bowl · pair min 24″ wide

Example Red Eyed Crocodile Skink glass tank front view at 18 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult single Red Eyed Crocodile Skink glass tank at 18 by 18 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. A heat mat is fixed on the back of the glass on the warm left side with the thermostat probe at the hot end. Cork bark hides, fallen branches, foliage, humidity-retentive coir and orchid bark substrate, and a small water bowl on the cool-end floor. Pair minimum width is 24 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · SINGLE · FRONT 1:1 18″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H SHADEDWELLER UV MESH LID HEAT MAT 18″ tall 18″ cube · pair min 24″ wide Heat mat Branches Cork hides Foliage Water bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM / MAT COOL
  • Single adult — 18″ × 18″ × 18″; pair minimum 24″ wide × 18″ × 18″
  • Heat mat — on the back of the glass at the warm end (no heat bulb needed)
  • Probe — hot end with the mat; daytime target about 82 °F
  • Cork & branches — hides plus enrichment to climb over
  • Water bowl — cool side; also moisture from live food and spray
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat mat on the back glass · probe at the hot end with the mat

Tank top-down: heat mat on back glass and hot-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass tank from above. Heat mat is fixed on the back wall toward the left warm side. Thermostat sensor enters from the lid and rests at the back where the mat is so the hot-end temperature can be monitored at about 82 degrees Fahrenheit by day. BACK FRONT Heat mat Probe · hot end Day target 82 °F WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the tank · mat on the back glass · probe at the warm end

Tank front view: heat mat on back glass and hot-end probe Front elevation. Heat mat is on the back of the glass on the warm left side. Thermostat probe hangs down the back at the hot end beside the mat. Daytime probe point is about 82 degrees Fahrenheit, creating a gradient to cooler room ambient. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE MAT Thermostat probe Hot end · with the mat Day 82 °F (28 °C) Heat mat On back of glass WARM COOL
  • Heat mat — on the back of the glass tank at the warm end (mat thermostat)
  • Probe — at the hot end with the mat; day target about 82 °F (28 °C)

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Hot-end mat control at about 82 °F, terrestrial Shadedweller UV, and humidity about 60–70% with a stronger night spray.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) hot end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool / ambient Room ambient (Background)
Hot end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 82 °F (28 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F ambient to about 64 °F (~18 °C); summer often no night heat

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: ambient drop ~10 °F to about 64 °F (18 °C); summer often no night heat
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller UV — terrestrial form — for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles
  • Terrestrial Shadedweller — on the mesh lid / tank top
  • They use daylight occasionally even though they are mainly crepuscular/nocturnal
  • Match UV and heat to daylight hours (~12 h winter / up to 16 h summer)

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass tank mesh lid — terrestrial Shadedweller UV sits on top of the lid · heat from mat (no basking bulb) · ~12 h winter / up to 16 h summer

Glass tank: terrestrial Shadedweller UV sits on top of the mesh lid; heat from mat on back glass Front view of a Red Eyed Crocodile Skink glass tank with a mesh lid. A terrestrial Shadedweller UV unit sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. Warmth comes from a heat mat fixed on the back of the glass at the warm end, not a heat bulb. Photoperiod is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Humidity about 60 to 70 percent with a stronger night spray. FLOOR MESH LID Shadedweller UV Terrestrial · on mesh lid Heat mat Back glass · no bulb WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Terrestrial Shadedweller — sits on top of the mesh lid (never under)
  • Heat mat — warmth from the mat on the back glass; a heat bulb is not required
  • Photoperiod — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 60–70% RH; strongest spray at night

Humidity 60–70%

  • Spray manually once or twice daily
  • Night-time spike — spray more heavily in the evening
  • Foggers or misting devices can help maintain levels
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are perfectly safe and normal

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 60–70% RH — heavier evening mist for the night spike.

  1. 1 · Day

    ~60–70%

    Slightly drier spells are normal — do not chase a constant wet enclosure

  2. 2 · Night spray

    Heavier mist

    Spray more heavily to create the night-time humidity spike

  3. 3 · Ventilate

    Not always wet

    Constant wet conditions raise bacteria risk — allow drier periods and airflow

First power-up tip

Always have the mat thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 82 °F (28 °C) at the hot-end probe once the mat is in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded insects. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes while growing. and gut-load insects well.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
5–8 crickets often daily once settled; adults often every other day
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Dubia roaches

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Mealworms

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5–8 crickets daily once settled; adults often every other day
  • Plant matter as part of the overall diet described in this guide
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • Water bowl on the cool side — they will drink from bowls
  • Also take moisture from live food and spray droplets
  • 60–70% humidity — night spray is the highest
  • De-chlorinator only — never untreated tap water

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size tank does a Red Eyed Crocodile Skink need?

Single adult minimum is 18″ wide × 18″ high × 18″ deep. For a pair, use at least 24″ × 18″ × 18″. Provide cork bark and hides, fallen branches for cover and light climbing, foliage, humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark, and a cool-side water bowl. Heat with a mat on the back of the glass, not a heat bulb.

How do I set heat and probe for a Red Eyed Crocodile Skink?

Place the heat mat on the back of the glass tank at the warm end. Feed the mat thermostat probe through the lid nodule so it rests at the back where the mat is — that monitors the hot end. Daytime probe target is about 82 °F (28 °C), creating a gradient toward cooler room ambient. Night ambient drop about 10 °F to around 64 °F (18 °C); in summer you may not need night heat.

What humidity and UV do they need?

About 60–70% relative humidity. Spray once or twice daily, with the strongest spray or fogger use at night for the natural spike. Slightly drier periods during the day are fine — do not keep the enclosure permanently wet. Use a terrestrial Shadedweller UV system for nocturnal/crepuscular species. Photoperiod about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

When can I start handling my Red Eyed Crocodile Skink?

Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What and how often do they eat?

Use the method of 5 (five insects at a time until eaten). Once settled, about 5–8 crickets daily is common; adults often only need feeding every other day. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, and Dubia roaches; waxworms and mealworms in moderation. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes — choking risk if larger.

Next steps

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