Kenyan Zebra Skink in a dry vivarium setup

Skinks · Care guide

Kenyan Zebra Skink Care Guide

Trachylepis dichroma

A terrestrial, diurnal skink native to East Africa. Docile and communal (often happy in groups), about 10–12″ long, thriving with dry heat, T5 12% UVB, light daily misting plus a humid hide for about 40–60% humidity, and an insect-led diet.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    82 °F

    28 °C · thermostat sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~6 °C · about 72 °F / 22 °C

  • Humidity

    40–60%

    Light daily mist · humid hide

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    Ceiling-mounted tube

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Terrestrial skinks from East Africa (about 10–12″). Give climbing branches, rocks and tunnels around the hotspot, artificial foliage, a moss humid hide, light daily misting for about 40–60% humidity, dry substrate, and a solid temperature gradient. Minimum size is for a single skink.

Adult minimum size

36″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

For a single skink, or larger if you wish. Adults reach about 10–12″. Communal species — groups need more space.

Decor

  • Climbing branches around the hotspot — different levels to choose from
  • Rocks and tunnels for enrichment (position near the hotspot)
  • Moss humid hide plus light daily mist for about 40–60% humidity
  • Artificial foliage for a naturalistic look
  • Water bowl on the cool side

Substrate

  • Dry substrate — pelleted straw bedding or coarser desert sand
  • Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • Every four to six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 36″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · hotspot branches · rocks & tunnels · humid hide · foliage · small water bowl

Example Kenyan Zebra Skink vivarium front view at 36 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Kenyan Zebra Skink vivarium at 36 by 18 inch proportions — twice as wide as tall. Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, T5 12% UV tube on the ceiling, climbing branches under the heat with a vertical branch leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side, a variety of hides plus a moss humid hide for humidity and shedding, artificial foliage, a small water bowl on the cool-end floor, and dry pelleted straw or coarser desert sand substrate. Depth is 18 inches. Minimum size for a single skink. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:1 36″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H 18″ tall 36″ wide · depth 18″ · height 18″ Branches Foliage Rocks Tunnel Humid hide Water bowl Dry substrate WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 36″ wide × 18″ tall (2:1); depth 18″ — single skink minimum
  • Branches — around the hotspot for different climbing levels
  • Rocks & tunnels — enrichment near the hotspot (open arched tunnel)
  • Humid hide — moss hide plus light daily mist for ~40–60% humidity
  • Water bowl — small dish on the cool end (de-chlorinated water)
  • Substrate — dry pelleted straw or coarser desert sand; daily spot clean, full clean every four to six weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall hangs to near floor WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a few inches above the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side few inches Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, and UVB are essential for metabolism, appetite, and long-term health.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~80 °F (~27 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 82 °F (28 °C)
Middle 84–88 °F (29–31 °C)
Warm side 90–95 °F (32–35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard

UVB lighting

  • Recommended T5 unit, 12% UV, mounted on the ceiling
  • Mount straight across or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent)
  • UV hours: about 9–10 h winter · 14–16 h summer
  • Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
  • Match UV on/off to daylight / heat schedule (morning on, evening off)

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

T5 12% UVB on the ceiling - heat dome on the warm side - match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: T5 12% UV tube on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Kenyan Zebra Skink vivarium. A T5 unit with 12% UV output is mounted on the ceiling — straight across or diagonally so the power unit can sit toward a rear vent. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Photoperiod is 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Replace the UV tube every 12 months. CEILING FLOOR T5 12% UV tube Mount on ceiling · replace yearly Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (UV HOURS) Winter 9-10 h Summer 14-16 h
  • T5 12% UV unit — ceiling-mounted (straight or diagonal); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
  • Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
  • UV photoperiod — about 9-10 hours in winter, 14-16 hours in summer (heat ~12 h winter / up to 16 h summer)
  • Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip

Always have the dimming thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded insects.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
10–15 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal (store airtight)
Food size
Appropriately sized for the animal (choking risk if too large)

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios
  • Other soft treats in moderation

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Store the mix in an airtight container and use it to coat food every time you feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New Kenyan Zebra Skinks often will not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until they are eaten before adding more

  3. Prevents dumping 10–15 insects that go uneaten — reducing stress and insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 10–15 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Hunting live food provides exercise and enrichment — avoid excessive hand feeding (obesity risk)

Water & humidity

  • Water bowl on the cool side — they will drink from bowls
  • 40–60% humidity — light daily mist plus moss humid hide
  • Allow drier periods during the day — do not keep the viv permanently wet
  • De-chlorinated water only — moisture also comes from live foods

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed; insects may contact waste)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Kenyan Zebra Skink need?

For a single skink, a minimum of 36″ wide × 18″ tall × 18″ deep, or larger. Provide climbing branches, rocks and tunnels around the hotspot, artificial foliage, a moss humid hide, dry substrate, and a cool-side water bowl. Adults reach about 10–12″. They are communal and often do well in groups with appropriately larger housing.

What temperatures does a Kenyan Zebra Skink need?

Set the dimming thermostat probe to 82 °F (28 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 80 °F on the cool side, 84–88 °F in the middle, and around 90–95 °F on the warm side. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 72 °F (22 °C).

How do I keep humidity right for a Kenyan Zebra Skink?

Aim for about 40–60% environmental humidity (species-dependent). Give a light mist daily and provide a moss humid hide. Slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe — do not keep the enclosure permanently wet, which raises bacteria risk. Allow good ventilation and drier spells.

When can I start handling my Kenyan Zebra Skink?

Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What UVB do Kenyan Zebra Skinks need?

A T5 unit with a 12% UV tube mounted on the ceiling — straight across or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent). Run UV about 9–10 hours in winter and 14–16 hours in summer. Heat day length is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Replace the tube every 12 months because UV output degrades.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until you see them eaten before adding more. This reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries. Once settled, it is relatively common for 10–15 crickets to be consumed daily. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Keep food appropriately sized.

Next steps

Ready to set up your Kenyan Zebra Skink?

Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.

Shop products Browse livestock Contact the team

More in Skinks

Related guides

Back to Animal Care Guides