Decor
- Climbing branches — they spend most of the day perched high
- Rocks for enrichment; hide for occasional retreat
- Artificial foliage for aesthetics and extra cover
Lizards · Care guide
Rankin's Dragon Care Guide
Pogona henrylawsoni
Native to rocky regions of Australia — smaller and very docile, making them easy to handle and interact with, even for children. Adults only reach about 10–12″ (vs ~24″ for bearded dragons).
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
84–86 °F
29–30 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~6 °C · about 74 °F / 23 °C
-
Diet
Insects + plants
More salad as adults
-
UVB
T5 tube
Ceiling-mounted · replace yearly
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Smaller Australian rock-dwellers (about 10–12″ vs ~24″ for bearded dragons). Give climbing branches, rocks, a hide, dry substrate, and a solid temperature gradient. Suitable for a single or a pair.
Adult minimum size
36″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H
For a single Rankin's or a pair — or larger. They will make good use of height in a 24″ tall vivarium.
Substrate
- Dry substrate — pelleted straw bedding or coarser desert sand
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- Every 4–6 weeks: full clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 36″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · climbing branches · hide · rocks · dry substrate
- Front proportions — 36″ wide × 18″ tall (2:1); depth 18″ — or larger; they use 24″ height well
- Branches — climbing wood; they spend most of the day perched high
- Rocks & hide — rocks for enrichment; hide for occasional retreat
- Foliage — artificial plants for aesthetics and extra cover
- Substrate — dry pelleted straw or coarser desert sand; daily spot clean, full clean every 4–6 weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature & UVB
Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, and UVB are essential for metabolism, appetite, and long-term health.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~84 °F (~29 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) |
| Middle | 94–96 °F (34–36 °C) |
| Warm side | 105–110 °F (41–43 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | 110–120 °F+ (43–49 °C+) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 74 °F (~23 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 74 °F (~23 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the dragon
UVB lighting
- Recommended T5 UV unit on the ceiling
- Mount straight across or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent)
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
- UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 UVB on the ceiling (straight or diagonal) · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 UV unit — ceiling-mounted (straight or diagonal); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Insects and plant matter (more salad as adults). Dust every feed and gut-load insects well.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Method
- Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
- Adults
- 10–15 crickets often consumed daily once settled · skip feeding 1–2 days per week as adults
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal (store airtight)
- Food size
- Never larger than half the size of the head (choking risk)
Staple insects
Fed regularly
- Crickets
- Locusts
- Calci Worms
- Veggies / salads (increase with age)
Occasional treats
In moderation only
- Waxworms
- Mealworms
- Morios
Supplements — every feeding
Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Store the mix in an airtight container and use it to coat food every time you feed.
Feeding new dragons — “method of 5”
New dragons often sulk and may not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases.
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Offer 5 insects at a time
-
Wait until they are eaten before adding more
-
Prevents dumping 15–20 insects that go uneaten — reducing stress and insect-related injuries
Adult intake
- 10–15 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
- As adults, skip feeding 1–2 days per week
- Salads/veg make up a decent amount of adult diet — introduce small amounts when young
Water
- Rarely drink from bowls — often omitted; if used, keep small to avoid humidity
- Morning drink: drip treated water on the nose (spray bottle or syringe)
- Weekly warm bath (~10 min, chest height) — towel dry before return
- Reptisafe or bottled water only — not untreated tap water
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
- Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
- Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
- A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals
Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
Plant matter & Ca:P lists Supermarket, garden plants, and foods to avoid
Salads and vegetables form a decent part of an adult's diet; youngsters take less. Introduce small amounts when young and increase as the dragon wants. Alternate items for balance. Naturally growing weeds and herbs are excellent when safe.
Good calcium to low phosphorus (examples)
Apricots, basil, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli tops, cantaloupe, carrots/carrot tops*, chicory, Chinese cabbage, clover, dandelion leaves and flowers, escarole, figs and fig leaves, green onion, leeks, okra, oranges, papaya, parsley, pea pods (not peas), rosemary, sow thistle, turnip greens, watercress, continental lettuces (romaine, cos, frisée, endive, radicchio, lollo rosso), mulberry, grape, ficus, rose, hibiscus, and opuntia cactus leaves. *Carrots/carrot tops not in high concentration (tannins).
Marginal Ca:P
Apple (no pips), aubergine, celery leaf only, pears, radish, sweet potato.
Poor Ca:P / high phosphorus — use sparingly
Asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, grapes, peaches, plums, squash, strawberries, tomato.
Generally exclude (oxalates / goitrogens / similar concerns)
Beans, rhubarb, spinach, beet greens, Swiss chard, cauliflower, cabbage, mustard greens, peas, collard greens, soy meal/beans, banana.
Garden plants often listed as safe
Carnations/dianthus, dracaena, echeveria/succulents, ficus, geranium, grape (Vitis), hibiscus, impatiens, maple leaves, nasturtiums, oregano, petunia, phlox, pinks, rose petals, soleirolia, viola/pansy/violets (not African). Always double-check any plant before offering.
Toxic / avoid
Apple bark/leaves/seeds, burdock, buttercup, cherry, clematis, crocus, daffodil, eggplant, elderberry, holly, horse chestnut, hyacinth, hydrangea, iris, lily of the valley, mistletoe, narcissus, oak, oleander, peach, peony, poinsettia, potato, primrose, privet, rhododendron, shamrock, snowdrop, sorrel, sweet pea, tomato plant, tulip, Virginia creeper — and some rosemary/sage varieties (verify before use).
Always dust plant and insect foods with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the dragon to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the dragon becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your dragon.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Remove natural digging behaviour
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed; insects may contact waste)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Rankin's Dragon need?
For a single Rankin's or a pair, a minimum of 36″ × 18″ × 18″, or larger. They will make good use of height in a 24″ tall vivarium. Provide climbing branches, rocks, a hide, and artificial foliage. Adults only reach about 10–12″, so they suit smaller spaces better than bearded dragons.
When can I start handling my Rankin's Dragon?
Allow the dragon to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
What UVB do Rankin's Dragons need?
A T5 UV unit mounted on the ceiling — straight across the top or diagonally (diagonal often gives nice light fall and can place the power unit toward a rear vent). Replace the tube when due — staff can advise on lifespan; UV output diminishes over time. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule.
What is the method of 5 for feeding?
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until they are eaten before adding more. This prevents dumping 15–20 insects that go uneaten, which can stress the dragon and cause insect-related injuries. Once settled, it is relatively common for 10–15 crickets to be consumed daily; as adults, skip feeding 1–2 days per week. Salads make up a decent amount of the adult diet.
Do Rankin's Dragons need a water bowl?
They rarely drink from bowls, so bowls are often omitted. If you use one, keep it small so water is not splashed into the enclosure (excess humidity can be harmful). Offer a drink each morning by dripping treated water (Reptisafe or bottled) onto the nose with a spray bottle or syringe. A weekly chest-height warm bath for about 10 minutes also helps rehydration.
Next steps
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