Pink Tongue Skink in a semi-arboreal terrarium setup

Skinks · Care guide

Pink Tongue Skink Care Guide

Cyclodomorphus gerrardii

Semi-arboreal, crepuscular/nocturnal skinks of eastern Australian subtropical forests and woodland edges (about 14–18″). Glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat, Shadedweller UV, multi-height branches, cork hides, and humidity about 60% day / 80% night.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Cool-end probe

    76–78 °F

    24–26 °C · ~6″ off substrate

  • Night drop

    ~68 °F

    ~20 °C · dimming thermostat

  • Humidity

    60 / 80%

    Day / night · spray 2×

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Nocturnal / crepuscular UV

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Arboreal forest skinks (about 14–18″) that live high in trees. Use a tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heating and UV, stable multi-height branches, foliage, and humidity-retentive substrate. High humidity with a strong night spike is essential.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H

Glass terrarium preferred (wood OK), or larger. Adults reach about 14–18″. Heat and Shadedweller UV sit on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Stable branches at different heights — semi-arboreal lifestyle
  • Cork hides, tunnels, and ground cover for security
  • Foliage for aesthetics and extra hiding places
  • Heat dome on the mesh lid (warm back corner) + cool-end probe ~6″ off substrate

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix — coir and coarse orchid bark (bio substrates also work)
  • Mist thoroughly but do not waterlog — fungus and mould risk respiratory issues
  • Full bio setups with live plants and cleanup crew can work very well

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 18″) · mesh lid · branches · cork hides · tunnel · foliage · coir + orchid bark

Example Pink Tongue Skink glass terrarium front view at 24 inches wide by 24 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Pink Tongue Skink glass terrarium at 24 by 24 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the warm left-back corner. A nocturnal Shadedweller UV unit sits on the mesh lid. Stable climbing branches at different heights, cork hides, an open arched tunnel, ground cover and foliage fill the enclosure. Substrate is humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 1:1 24″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H MESH LID 24″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 24″ Branches Foliage Cork hides Tunnel Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 24″ wide × 24″ tall (1:1); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Mesh lid — heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on top (glass preferred)
  • Branches — multi-height for a semi-arboreal lifestyle
  • Cork hides & tunnel — plus ground cover for security
  • Foliage — cover and naturalistic décor
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; mist twice daily without waterlogging

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about 6″ off the substrate

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and probe six inches off substrate Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests about six inches above the substrate so cool-end temperature can be set to 76 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit by day. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh ≈ 6″ Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome ≈ 6″ off substrate WARM COOL Cool-end probe target: 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) day · ~68 °F (20 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; tip about 6″ off the substrate to monitor cool-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool-end probe control, a moderate basking gradient, Shadedweller UV, and humidity about 60% day / up to 80% night.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) cool end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 76–78 °F (24–26 °C)
Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) ~90–95 °F (~32–35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~68 °F (~20 °C) at night

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to around 68 °F (20 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller UV — designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles
  • Terrestrial or arboreal Shadedweller forms — sits on the mesh lid
  • They use daylight occasionally even though they are mainly crepuscular/nocturnal
  • Match UV and heat to daylight hours (~12 h winter / up to 16 h summer)

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — Shadedweller UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: Shadedweller UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Pink Tongue Skink glass terrarium. A Shadedweller UV unit designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles sits on top of the mesh lid. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm end of the mesh. Heat and UV follow about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Humidity about 60% by day and up to 80% at night. FLOOR MESH LID Shadedweller UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 60% day / up to 80% night RH; spray once or twice daily with a heavier night mist

Humidity 60% day / up to 80% night

  • Spray manually twice daily
  • Night-time spike — spray more heavily in the evening
  • Foggers or misting devices can help maintain levels
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are perfectly safe and normal

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 60% day / up to 80% night RH — heavier evening mist for the night spike.

  1. 1 · Day

    ~60% day / up to 80% night

    Slightly drier spells are normal — do not chase a constant wet enclosure

  2. 2 · Night spray

    Heavier mist

    Spray more heavily to create the night-time humidity spike

  3. 3 · Ventilate

    Not always wet

    Constant wet conditions raise bacteria risk — allow drier periods and airflow

First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) for daytime once equipment is in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insect-led diet with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded insects. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes while growing. and gut-load insects well.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
5 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Plant matter as part of the overall diet described in this guide
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • 60% day / up to 80% night — night spike is essential
  • Spray the enclosure well twice daily (pump sprayer, fogger, or rain system)
  • Allow drier periods during the day — do not keep the terrarium permanently wet
  • Reptisafe or bottled water only

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size terrarium does a Pink Tongue Skink need?

Adult minimum is about 24″ wide × 24″ high × 18″ deep. Glass terrariums suit their high humidity and moderate heat (wood is fine if preferred). Provide multi-height branches, ground cover, cork hides and tunnels, foliage, and humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. Heat dome and Shadedweller UV sit on the mesh lid.

What temperatures does a Pink Tongue Skink need?

Set the cool-end dimming thermostat probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) by day and about 68 °F (20 °C) at night. Place the heat dome on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses left-back) and feed the sensor through the opposite lid side so it rests about 6″ off the substrate. That creates a gradient from about 76 °F up to roughly 90–95 °F under the basking spot.

What humidity and UV do they need?

Aim for about 60% humidity by day and up to 80% at night — the night spike matters. Spray the enclosure well twice daily without waterlogging the substrate. Foggers or rain systems help at night. Although crepuscular/nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal forms). Photoperiod about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer with heat.

When can I start handling my Pink Tongue Skink?

Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more. Once settled, about five crickets daily is common. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes while growing. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation.

Next steps

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