Chameleons · Care guide
Furcifer pardalis
Endemic to Madagascar (introduced elsewhere, including Florida). Tropical forest through savannah localities with famous colour morphs. Tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and UV, humidity 70% day / 80% night, leaf-droplet drinking, and a live-insect diet.
At a glance
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
Cool-end probe
76–78 °F
24–26 °C · ~6″ off substrate
Night drop
~68 °F
~20 °C · dimming thermostat
Humidity
70 / 80%
Day / night · spray 2–3×
UVB
T5 12%
On mesh (6% if inside)
01 · Housing
High humidity and relatively cool temperatures make panthers good candidates for a tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heating and UV, stable multi-height branches, foliage for cover and drinking droplets, and humidity-retentive substrate. Locality names (Ambilobe, Nosy Be, Sambava, and others) refer to colour origins — not different enclosure sizes.
Adult minimum size
24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H
Tall glass terrarium. Heat dome and T5 UV sit on the mesh lid. Coir + coarse orchid bark (or bio substrate).
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 24″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 18″) · glass terrarium · mesh lid · branches · foliage · coir + orchid bark
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about 6″ off the substrate
02 · Climate
Cool-end probe control, a basking gradient to about 90–95 °F, T5 12% UVB on the mesh lid, humidity 70% day / 80% night, and careful misting without waterlogging.
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) cool end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) | 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | ~90–95 °F (~32–35 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~68 °F (~20 °C) at night |
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
Glass terrarium mesh lid — T5 12% UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat
Target 70% by day and 80% at night — spray 2–3× and let it dry out between peaks.
~70% RH
Spray well 2–3×; allow drier periods between mists
~80% RH
Night spike is important — fogger or rain system can help
No waterlogging
Overspray can cause fungus and respiratory risk — find the right balance
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) for daytime once equipment is in place.
03 · Nutrition
Live insects only with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded feeders. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.
At a glance
Fed regularly
In moderation only
Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.
New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.
Offer 5 insects at a time
Wait until you see them consumed before adding more
Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
04 · Behaviour
Allow a full settle period before handling — new environments are stressful, and early handling can make it worse.
Allow the chameleon to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse. At least two successful feeds first.
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as they become more comfortable.
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your chameleon.
05 · Welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, humidity balance without waterlogging, safe water, and supplementation working together.
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Some keepers choose inert solid substrates such as paper, lino, or carpet. They can reduce impaction risk but also remove natural digging behaviour and can increase faecal contamination, because waste is not absorbed as it is in traditional substrates.
Questions
Adult minimum glass terrarium 24″ wide × 36″ high × 18″ deep. High humidity and lower temperatures suit mesh-lid glass housing. Heat dome and T5 UV sit on the mesh lid. Provide stable branches at different heights, foliage for cover and drinking droplets, and humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark (bio substrates also work). They will not drink from a standing water bowl — mist foliage so they can lick droplets.
Set the cool-end dimming thermostat probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) by day and about 68 °F (20 °C) at night. Place the heat dome on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses left-back) and feed the sensor through the opposite lid side so it rests about 6″ off the substrate. That creates a gradient from about 76 °F up to roughly 90–95 °F under the basking spot. Recommended temps only apply with this placement.
Aim for about 70% by day and 80% at night — the night spike is important. Spray the whole enclosure well 2 or 3 times a day, and mist foliage so they can drink leaf droplets. They do not need high humidity every moment: allow the setup to dry out occasionally during the day. Avoid waterlogging the substrate (fungus and mould can cause respiratory problems). A fogger or rain system can help; some keepers use both. Always use treated water (e.g. Reptisafe) or bottled water — never straight from the tap.
With UV on top of the mesh lid, use a T5 12% system (mesh reduces UV output; 6% applies if the tube is fitted inside). Sit the kit straight across or diagonally on the mesh. Replace the tube every 12 months. Photoperiod about 12 hours in winter, extended up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.
Allow them to settle and begin eating regularly first (at least two successful feeds). Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
Offer five insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more. Once settled, about 10–15 crickets daily is common. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. While growing, food size no larger than the distance between the eyes. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, mealworms; waxworms, morios and similar in moderation. Gut-load feeders well before offering.
Next steps
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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