Jackson's Chameleon in a tall terrarium setup

Chameleons · Care guide

Jackson's Chameleon Care Guide

Trioceros jacksonii

Medium-sized chameleons (about 14″ total length, including the tail) with a lifespan of about 8–10 years. Tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and UV, high humidity, leaf-droplet drinking, and a live-insect diet.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Cool-end probe

    76 °F

    24 °C · ~6″ off substrate

  • Night drop

    ~66 °F

    ~19 °C · dimming thermostat

  • Humidity

    High

    Spray 2×+ daily · night spike

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    On mesh (6% if inside)

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Medium chameleons with high humidity and relatively cool temperatures — good candidates for a tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heating and UV, a branch network, foliage for cover and drinking droplets, and humidity-retentive substrate.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H

Tall glass terrarium. Generally about 14″ total length. Heat dome and T5 UV sit on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Good network of branches for climbing and choice
  • Foliage for cover and surfaces to lick drinking droplets
  • Heat dome on the mesh lid (warm back corner) + cool-end probe ~6″ off substrate
  • Drink from misted leaves and sides — treated water only (never straight tap)

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix — spray the substrate so it holds moisture and releases it over the following hours
  • Coir and coarse orchid bark work well for high-humidity glass setups
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 18″) · glass terrarium · mesh lid · branches · foliage · coir + orchid bark

Example Jackson's Chameleon glass terrarium front view at 24 inches wide by 36 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Jackson's Chameleon glass terrarium at 24 by 36 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the warm left-back corner. A T5 12% UV unit also sits on top of the mesh lid. Climbing branches fill multiple heights, with a vertical branch under the heat leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side. Foliage provides cover and surfaces for drinking droplets after misting. Substrate is humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. No standing water bowl — they drink by licking moisture from leaves and enclosure sides. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H MESH LID 36″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 36″ Branches Foliage Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 24″ wide × 36″ tall (2:3); depth 18″ — tall glass terrarium
  • Mesh lid — heat dome and T5 12% UV sit on top of the mesh
  • Branches — multi-height climbing structure
  • Foliage — cover plus surfaces for drinking droplets after misting
  • Drinking — mist foliage and sides so they can lick droplets (treated water only)
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; spray to hold moisture

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about 6″ off the substrate

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and probe six inches off substrate Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests about six inches above the substrate so cool-end temperature can be set to 76 degrees Fahrenheit by day. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh ≈ 6″ Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome ≈ 6″ off substrate WARM COOL Cool-end probe target: 76 °F (24 °C) day · ~66 °F (19 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; tip about 6″ off the substrate to monitor cool-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool-end probe control, a gentle basking gradient, T5 12% UVB on the mesh lid, high humidity with frequent misting, and a night spray priority.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 76 °F (24 °C) cool end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 76 °F (24 °C)
Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) ~85 °F (~29 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~66 °F (~19 °C) at night

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 9–10 hours light/heat
  • Summer: increase to 14–16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: drop thermostat to around 66 °F (19 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the chameleon

UVB lighting

  • T5 12% UV on the mesh lid — mesh reduces output (sheet notes 6% if the tube is fitted inside)
  • Sit the kit straight across or diagonally on top of the mesh — not under the lid
  • Replace tubes after 12 months — UV output diminishes daily
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — T5 12% UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: T5 12% UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Jackson's Chameleon glass terrarium with a mesh lid. The T5 tube with 12 percent UV output sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. A heat dome also sits on top of the mesh at the warm end. Photoperiod is about 9 to 10 hours in winter and 14 to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. FLOOR MESH LID T5 12% UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 9–10 h Summer 14–16 h
  • T5 12% UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Photoperiod — 9–10 hours in winter, 14–16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — high RH; spray at least twice daily; night spray priority; drink from leaf moisture

High humidity & drinking

  • Spray the whole terrarium a few times a day — at least twice daily
  • Especially wet the substrate so it holds moisture and releases it over the following hours
  • Night spray is the priority — humidity spikes then; fogger or rain system can help
  • They drink by licking moisture from leaves or enclosure sides (treated water only)

Daily humidity cycle

High humidity with frequent misting — night spray is the important one.

  1. 1 · Day sprays

    At least 2×

    Spray the whole terrarium a few times a day, especially the substrate

  2. 2 · Night spray

    Priority mist

    Night is when humidity naturally spikes — fogger or rain system can help

  3. 3 · Water quality

    Treated only

    Reptisafe, bottled, or water stood 24 hours — never straight from the tap

First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 76 °F (24 °C) for daytime once equipment is in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Live insects only with method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded feeders. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
10–15 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Dubia roaches

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios
  • Curly wing flies

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 10–15 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Adults often eat less — leave out 1–2 non-feeding days
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink by licking moisture from leaves or enclosure sides
  • Keep foliage and sides misted with treated water
  • Never use untreated tap water for spray or fogging

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Proprietary cricket food plus a slice of potato, carrot or apple for moisture; bug gel also works well
  • Dust every feed with a thorough 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix
  • Well gut-loaded insects pass nutrition on to your chameleon

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Generally excellent temperament, but always read body language — inflate and open-mouth means stop.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the chameleon to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse. At least two successful feeds first.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as they become more comfortable. They often tolerate handling well when settled.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your chameleon.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, high humidity with safe water, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Questions

FAQ

What size terrarium does a Jackson's Chameleon need?

Adult minimum glass terrarium 24″ wide × 18″ deep × 36″ tall. High humidity and lower temperatures suit mesh-lid glass housing. Heat dome and T5 UV sit on the mesh lid. Provide a branch network, foliage for cover and drinking droplets, and humidity-retentive substrate. They drink by licking moisture from leaves and enclosure sides — not from a standing water bowl.

What temperatures does a Jackson's Chameleon need?

Set the cool-end dimming thermostat probe to 76 °F (24 °C) by day and about 66 °F (19 °C) at night. Place the heat dome on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses left-back) and feed the sensor through the opposite lid side so it rests about 6″ off the substrate. That creates a gradient from about 76 °F up to roughly 85 °F under the basking spot. Recommended temps only apply with this placement.

What humidity do Jackson's Chameleons need?

They need high humidity. Spray the whole terrarium (especially the substrate, which holds moisture and releases it over the following hours) a few times a day — at least twice daily. The night spray is the important one because humidity naturally spikes then; a fogger or rain system can help. Use treated water (e.g. Reptisafe), bottled water, or water stood for 24 hours — never straight from the tap.

What UVB do Jackson's Chameleons need?

With UV on top of the mesh lid, use a T5 12% system (mesh reduces UV output; the sheet notes 6% would apply if the tube were fitted inside). Sit the kit straight across or diagonally on the mesh. Replace the tube every 12 months. Photoperiod about 9–10 hours in winter, increasing to 14–16 hours in summer.

When can I start handling my Jackson's Chameleon?

They generally have an excellent temperament and tolerate handling well, but watch for stress signs: they inflate and open their mouths when they do not want to be handled. Allow them to settle and begin eating regularly first (at least two successful feeds). Early sessions 5–10 minutes only. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more. Once settled, about 10–15 crickets daily is common; as adults, appetite often drops — leave out one or two non-feeding days. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, Dubia roaches; waxworms, morios and similar in moderation.

Next steps

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