Mountain Horned Dragon among rainforest foliage

Lizards · Care guide

Mountain Horned Dragon Care Guide

Acanthosaura capra

Rainforest lizards of Southeast Asia (about 7.5–15″). Tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heat and UV, high humidity (around 70–90%), and a diet of insects and plant matter. Care applies across the family subspecies.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Cool-end probe

    76–78 °F

    24–26 °C · ~6″ off substrate

  • Night drop

    ~68 °F

    ~20 °C · ~10 °F drop

  • Humidity

    70–90%

    Spray twice daily · night spike

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    On top of mesh lid

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Southeast Asian rainforest lizards (about 7.5–15″). High humidity and lower temperatures make them good candidates for a tall glass terrarium with mesh-lid heating and UV, climbing space, foliage, and a cool-side water bowl.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H

Tall glass terrarium. Body length about 7.5–15″. Heat dome and T5 UV sit on the mesh lid.

Decor

  • Climbing branches and structure for a multi-level setup
  • Foliage for cover in a rainforest-style layout
  • Heat dome on the mesh lid (warm back corner) + cool-end probe ~6″ off substrate
  • Cool-side water bowl with de-chlorinated water

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix suited to high RH — avoid fine, mineral sands that raise impaction risk
  • Mist thoroughly but do not waterlog — constant wetness raises bacteria risk
  • Full clean about every six weeks if kept relatively clean — replace substrate and disinfect decor

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 18″) · glass terrarium · mesh lid · branches · foliage · cool-end water bowl · coir + orchid bark

Example Mountain Horned Dragon glass terrarium front view at 24 inches wide by 36 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Mountain Horned Dragon glass terrarium at 24 by 36 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the warm left-back corner. A T5 12% UV unit also sits on top of the mesh lid. Climbing branches fill multiple heights, with a vertical branch under the heat leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side. Foliage provides cover. A water bowl sits on the cool-end floor. Substrate is humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H MESH LID 36″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 36″ Branches Foliage Water bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 24″ wide × 36″ tall (2:3); depth 18″ — tall glass terrarium
  • Mesh lid — heat dome and T5 12% UV sit on top of the mesh
  • Branches — multi-height climbing structure
  • Foliage — cover in a rainforest-style layout
  • Water bowl — cool end; treat water with a de-chlorinator
  • Substrate — coir + coarse orchid bark; do not waterlog when misting

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about 6″ off the substrate

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and probe six inches off substrate Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests about six inches above the substrate so cool-end temperature can be set to 76 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit by day. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh ≈ 6″ Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome ≈ 6″ off substrate WARM COOL Cool-end probe target: 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) day · ~68 °F (20 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; tip about 6″ off the substrate to monitor cool-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool-end probe control, a moderate basking gradient, T5 12% UVB on the mesh lid, and humidity around 70–90% with twice-daily misting and a night spike.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) cool end creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 76–78 °F (24–26 °C)
Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) ~90–95 °F (~32–35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~68 °F (~20 °C) at night

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to around 68 °F (20 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard

UVB lighting

  • T5 12% UV on the mesh lid
  • Sit the kit straight across or diagonally on top of the mesh — not under the lid
  • Replace tubes after 12 months — UV output diminishes daily
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — T5 12% UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: T5 12% UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Mountain Horned Dragon glass terrarium with a mesh lid. The T5 tube with 12 percent UV output sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. A heat dome also sits on top of the mesh at the warm end. Photoperiod is 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. FLOOR MESH LID T5 12% UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • T5 12% UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 70–90% RH; spray twice daily with a heavier night mist

Humidity around 70–90%

  • Spray manually twice daily
  • Night-time spike — increase the night spray; a fogger or misting machine can help
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are perfectly safe and normal
  • Do not obsess over holding one RH figure every minute of the day

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 70–90% RH with twice-daily misting and a heavier night spray.

  1. 1 · Day

    ~70–90% RH

    Slightly drier spells are normal — do not chase a constant wet enclosure

  2. 2 · Night spray

    Heavier mist

    Increase the night spray (fogger or misting machine optional) for the night-time spike

  3. 3 · Ventilate

    Not always wet

    Constant wet conditions raise bacteria risk — allow drier periods and airflow

First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) for daytime once equipment is in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insects and plant matter, method of 5, dusting every feed, and well gut-loaded insects. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
5–10 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5–10 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Insects and plant matter as described in this guide
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from water bowls — cool side is easy access
  • Moisture also comes from live foods
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size terrarium does a Mountain Horned Dragon need?

Adult minimum glass terrarium 24″ wide × 18″ deep × 36″ tall. High humidity and lower temperatures suit mesh-lid glass housing. Heat dome and T5 12% UV sit on the mesh lid. Provide climbing branches, foliage, humidity-retentive substrate, and a cool-side water bowl with de-chlorinated water.

What temperatures does a Mountain Horned Dragon need?

Set the cool-end dimming thermostat probe to 76–78 °F (24–26 °C) by day and about 68 °F (20 °C) at night (about a 10 °F drop). Place the heat dome on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses left-back) and feed the sensor through the opposite lid side so it rests about 6″ off the substrate. That creates a gradient from about 76 °F up to roughly 90–95 °F under the basking spot. Recommended temps only apply with this placement.

What humidity do Mountain Horned Dragons need?

Aim for about 70–90% environmental humidity. Spray the enclosure manually twice daily; increase the night spray (and use a fogger or misting machine if helpful) to recreate a night-time spike. Slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safe. Do not keep the enclosure wet at all times — that raises bacteria risk. Allow ventilation or drier periods.

What UVB do Mountain Horned Dragons need?

A T5 12% system that sits on top of the mesh lid (straight across or diagonally). Replace the tube every 12 months because UV output diminishes daily. Match photoperiod to daylight hours: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer with heat.

When can I start handling my Mountain Horned Dragon?

Allow the dragon to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — the sheet recommends at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until they are eaten before adding more. Once settled, about 5–10 crickets daily is common. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size no larger than the distance between the eyes. Staples: crickets, locusts, calci worms, mealworms; waxworms and morios in moderation. Insects and plant matter form the overall diet.

Next steps

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