Decor
- Fill the ground area with hides and tunnels for enrichment and privacy
- Tall, sturdy climbing branches (arboreal)
- Artificial plants for natural aesthetic appeal
- Water bowl on the cool side
Snakes · Care guide
Mangrove Snake Care Guide
Boiga dendrophila
Large rear-fanged arboreal cat snake from South/East Asia, up to about 8 ft — not for beginners. Tall vivarium 48″ × 24″ × 48″, cool-end probe 78–80 °F (cool ~76 · mid 82–84 · warm 86–88 · bask ~90), humidity about 50% day / over 80% night, Shadedweller Max UV, multi-level branches, and a rodent diet sized to girth.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
78–80 °F
26–27 °C · cool end 2–3″
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~68 °F · ~20 °C
-
Humidity
50→80%+
Day / night · spray 1–2×
-
UVB
Shadedweller Max
Ceiling · nocturnal access
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
A tall high-humidity arboreal setup. Adult minimum is 4 ft wide × 4 ft high × 2 ft deep (48″ × 24″ × 48″). Multi-level climbing branches (they sleep on branches by day), cool and hot hides, tunnels, coir and orchid bark, and a cool-side water bowl.
Adult minimum size
48″ W × 24″ D × 48″ H
Tall vivarium (4 × 2 × 4 ft). Heat bulb with cool-end probe method (2–3″ from substrate), Shadedweller Max UV, multi-level branches, and cool-side water bowl.
Substrate
- Humid retentive mix — coir mixed with orchid bark works well
- Favours humid areas — substrate should hold moisture between sprays
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- Every 4–6 weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 48″ tall (depth 24″) · Shadedweller Max · climbing branches · hides · tunnel · coir & bark · cool water bowl
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 48″ tall (1:1); depth 24″ — adult minimum
- Shadedweller Max — ceiling UV for tree-dwelling racers (not a Shadedweller)
- Branches — ground enrichment plus climbing wood (arboreal)
- Hides — fill open floor space so the snake feels secure
- Tunnel — enrichment for night humidity and shedding
- Substrate — orchid bark mixed with coir (or bio); cool-side water bowl
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — cold end (opposite heat), hanging from the top ventilation cover about 2–3″ from the substrate
02 · Climate
Temperature, UV & humidity
Cool-end probe 78–80 °F with a clear cool-to-warm gradient (bask ~90 °F), Shadedweller Max UV, and humidity about 50% day / over 80% night — spray 1–2× daily with night priority.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) cool end · 2–3″ creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~76 °F (~24 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) |
| Middle | 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) |
| Warm side | 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) |
| Basking spot | ~90 °F (~32 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~68 °F (~20 °C) · ~10 °F drop |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 68 °F (~20 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake
UV lighting
- Although nocturnal, use Shadedweller Max — they sleep on branches with body parts exposed to daylight UV
- Mount on the ceiling; match UV on/off to heat
- Photoperiod: about 12 h winter / up to 16 h summer
- Replace the tube every 12 months as UV output falls
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
Shadedweller Max on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- Shadedweller Max — ceiling-mounted; snakes may access UV during daylight even when largely nocturnal
- Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
- Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
- Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F in the evening so metabolism can slow
Humidity & water
- Daytime can be as low as about 50%
- Night rise to over 80% — night spray is the most important
- Spray 1–2× daily; foggers or spray systems can help
- Night humidity spike supports the body and respiratory system
- Cool-side water bowl; replace daily with de-chlorinated water (e.g. Reptisafe)
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most beauty rats.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Prey
- Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
- Schedule
- Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
- Food size
- Match girth — mouse roughly as thick as the body
- When
- Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning
Prey size ladder Pinkie through extra-large mouse (sheet guide)
- 1 pinkie per feed × 2 a week → 2 pinkies per feed × 2 a week
- 1 fluff per feed × 2 a week → 2 fluffs per feed every 5 days
- 1 hop per feed every 5 days → small mouse every 7 days
- Medium mouse every 7–10 days · large every 10–12 days · XL every 14 days
Feeding routine
- Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
- Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
- If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
- Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
Water
- Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
- Replace water daily
- Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe — not water straight from the tap
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Large rear-fanged arboreal snakes — experienced keepers only. Settle and regular feeding come before handling; short early sessions.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, hydration, supplementing, and correct UV output keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Mangrove Snake need?
Adult minimum is a tall vivarium 4 ft wide × 4 ft high × 2 ft deep (48″ × 24″ × 48″). They are arboreal and sleep on branches by day. Use coir mixed with orchid bark, multi-level climbing branches, at least two hides (cool and hot), tunnels, artificial plants, and a cool-side water bowl. Heat bulb about one-quarter from one side; cool-end probe opposite, hanging 2–3″ from the substrate. Shadedweller Max UV.
What temperatures does a Mangrove Snake need?
Set the cool-end thermostat probe to 78–80 °F (26–27 °C) by day, hanging from the top ventilation cover about 2–3 inches from the substrate, opposite the heat source. With the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side, that creates a gradient of about 76 °F cool, 82–84 °F middle, 86–88 °F warm, and around 90 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 68 °F (20 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Recommended temps only apply with this placement.
What humidity and UV do they need?
High-humidity species. Daytime can be as low as about 50%, rising to over 80% at night. Spray 1–2 times a day with the night spray most important; spray systems and foggers can help. Use a Shadedweller Max UV system — although nocturnal, they sleep on branches with body parts exposed to daylight UV. Replace tubes every 12 months.
Are Mangrove Snakes good for beginners?
No. They are large rear-fanged cat snakes (Boiga dendrophila) that can grow to about 8 ft. Unsuitable as a first snake. If you are hypoallergenic, rear-fanged species are not recommended.
When can I start handling my Mangrove Snake?
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24–48 hours after feeding before handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
How often should I feed a Mangrove Snake?
Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about every five days; adults about once a week. Larger individuals can be fed every 2–3 weeks. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (mouse or rat). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.
Next steps
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