Decor
- Sturdy branches for climbing
- A hide on the cool end and a hide on the hot end for seclusion
- Artificial plants for aesthetic cover
- Large water bowl — drinking and bathing
Snakes · Care guide
Madagascan Tree Boa Care Guide
Sanzinia madagascariensis
Endemic to Madagascar’s eastern humid forests — arboreal and nocturnal, about 4–5 ft. Adult vivarium 3 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft, probe 78–80 °F, Shadedweller UV recommended, climbing branches, cool and hot hides, coir and orchid bark, and a rodent diet sized to girth.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
78–80 °F
25–27 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
10 °F
6 °C below daytime
-
Humidity
60–70%
With a night spike
-
UVB
Shadedweller
Recommended · not vital
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
An arboreal, nocturnal humid-forest boa. Adult minimum is 36″ wide × 24″ deep × 24″ tall (3 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft). Wooden vivarium preferred; because of the lower temperatures, glass is also suitable. Coir and orchid bark, sturdy climbing branches, cool and hot hides, artificial plants, and a large water bowl.
Adult minimum size
36″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H
3 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft for a single adult. Wooden vivarium preferred; glass is also suitable at these lower temperatures.
Substrate
- Humid retentive mix — coir mixed with orchid bark works well
- Any high-humidity mix
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- Every 4–6 weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect décor and vivarium, then return clean, dry décor
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 36″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 24″) · climbing branches · cool & hot hides · foliage · large water bowl
- Front proportions — 36″ wide × 24″ tall (3:2) adult minimum 3×2×2 ft; depth 24″
- Branches — sturdy climbing wood for this arboreal boa
- Hides — minimum two: one cool side, one hot side
- Water bowl — cool side; replace daily with de-chlorinated water
- Humidity — 60–70% with a night spike; high-humidity coir and orchid bark mix
- Substrate — coir mixed with orchid bark; daily spot clean, full clean about every 4–6 weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature & humidity
Probe 78–80 °F with a clear cool-to-warm gradient, Shadedweller UV recommended, and humidity of 60–70% with a night spike.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 78–80 °F (25–27 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | 76–78 °F (24–25 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 78–80 °F (25–27 °C) |
| Middle | 80–82 °F (27–28 °C) |
| Warm side | 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) |
| Basking spot | 88–90 °F (31–32 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by 10 °F (6 °C) drop |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: drop temperatures by 10 °F (6 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake
Heat & housing
- UV is not vital, but a Shadedweller is recommended
- Wooden vivarium preferred; because of the lower temperatures, glass is also suitable
- Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer
- Match UV on/off to the heat schedule if you use a Shadedweller
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
Shadedweller on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- Shadedweller — ceiling-mounted; snakes may access UV during daylight even when largely nocturnal
- Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
- Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
- Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F in the evening so metabolism can slow
Humidity & water
- Keep 60–70% humidity through the day, then spike it overnight
- Heavier evening spray to raise humidity a little toward the top of the 60–70% range overnight
- Large cool-side water bowl — drinking, bathing, and humidity support
- Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water — never untreated tap
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 78–80 °F (25–27 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
In the wild they take birds, mammals and amphibians. In captivity, rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then keep to the weekly schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit this nocturnal boa.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Prey
- Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
- Schedule
- Young / juveniles once a week · sub-adults every 2 weeks · adults every 3 weeks
- Food size
- Match girth — mouse or rat roughly as thick as the body
- When
- Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning
Feeding routine
- Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
- Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
- If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
- Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
- Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime
Water
- Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
- Replace water daily
- Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle
Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.
- Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
- Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
- Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date
Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Arboreal and nocturnal (about 4–5 ft). Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Remove natural digging behaviour
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Madagascan Tree Boa need?
Adult minimum is 3 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft (36″ wide × 24″ deep × 24″ tall). They are arboreal and nocturnal. Use a wooden vivarium; because of the lower temperatures, glass is also suitable. Provide sturdy climbing branches, a hide on the cool and hot ends, artificial plants, a high-humidity coir and orchid bark mix, and a large water bowl for drinking and bathing.
What temperatures does a Madagascan Tree Boa need?
Set the thermostat probe to 78–80 °F (25–27 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of 76–78 °F cool, 80–82 °F middle, 84–86 °F warm, and 88–90 °F under the basking bulb. At night drop temperatures by 10 °F (6 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What humidity do they need?
Aim for 60–70% humidity with a night spike. Use a high-humidity mix of coir and orchid bark, a large cool-side water bowl for drinking and bathing, and a light evening spray. Always treat water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water.
Do Madagascan Tree Boas need UVB?
UV is not vital, but a Shadedweller is recommended. Mount it on the vivarium ceiling and match UV on/off to the heat schedule: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
When can I start handling my Madagascan Tree Boa?
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24–48 hours after feeding before handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
How often should I feed a Madagascan Tree Boa?
Young / juveniles once a week; sub-adults every 2 weeks; adults every 3 weeks. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (mouse or rat). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.
Next steps
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