Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake (Madagascarophis ssp.) in a dry vivarium setup

Snakes · Care guide

Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake Care Guide

Madagascarophis ssp.

Medium Madagascan snakes about 3–4 ft for a large female — rear-fanged, like to hiss, best for experienced keepers. Dry terrestrial vivarium 30″ × 18″ × 18″, probe 80–82 °F halfway down, humidity about 50% day / 70% night with a wet box, Shadedweller UV, and a rodent diet sized to girth.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    80–82 °F

    27–28 °C · halfway down

  • Night drop

    ~70 °F

    ~21 °C · evening set

  • Humidity

    50→70%

    Day / night · wet box

  • UVB

    Shadedweller

    Ceiling T5 · nocturnal

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

A dry terrestrial setup with night humidity choice. Adult minimum is 30″ × 18″ × 18″ (or larger). Ground-level rocks, tunnels and fallen branches, wet box, artificial foliage, and a water bowl they can get into.

Adult minimum size

30″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Or larger (babies start smaller). Heat bulb, Shadedweller UV, dry substrate with wet box, ground-level enrichment, and a soak-capable water bowl.

Decor

  • Terrestrial — rocks, tunnels and fallen branches aimed at ground level
  • Wet box with damp moss — night humidity choice; they enjoy it any time, especially in shed
  • Artificial foliage for aesthetic appeal
  • Water bowl they can get into — de-chlorinated or filtered water only

Substrate

  • Dry substrate with a wet box for extra humidity, or dry bio soil lightly sprayed in the evening
  • Drier species with night-time humidity in the wild — aim for choice, not constant wetness
  • Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 30″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · hides · branches · tunnels · wet box · foliage · cool water bowl

Example Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake vivarium front view at 30 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake vivarium at 30 by 18 inch proportions (5:3 front). Heat dome on the warm left about one-quarter of the way in, Shadedweller UV on the ceiling, climbing branches under the heat, hides on warm and cool ends, an open arched tunnel, a wet box with damp moss for humid choice, artificial plants, a water bowl on the cool-end floor, and dry substrate or dry bio soil. Depth is 18 inches. Adult minimum vivarium 30 by 18 by 18 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 5:3 30″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H 18″ tall 30″ wide · depth 18″ · height 18″ Branches Foliage Hides Tunnel Wet box Water bowl Pelleted straw WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 30″ wide × 18″ tall (5:3); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Branches & tunnels — low-level climbing and floor enrichment
  • Hides — minimum two: one cool side, one hot side
  • Wet box — damp moss so the snake can choose humid areas in a dry setup
  • Water bowl — cool side; replace daily with de-chlorinated or bottled water
  • Substrate — dry substrate or other dry-species bedding; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor one-quarter of the way from the right side, along the back wall. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe ¼ opposite · back wall halfway down back WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall about one-quarter from the right, with the sensor tip a about halfway down the floor. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side halfway down Thermostat probe hangs down the back ≈ ¼ from opposite side WARM COOL ≈ ¼ ≈ ¼
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down

02 · Climate

Temperature & UVB

Probe 80–82 °F halfway down the back, clear cool-to-warm gradient, Shadedweller UV, and humidity about 50% day / 70% night via wet box or light evening spray.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80–82 °F (27–28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~75 °F (~24 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 80–82 °F (27–28 °C)
Middle 84–86 °F (29–30 °C)
Warm side 88–90 °F (31–32 °C)
Basking spot ~95 °F (~35 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~70 °F (~21 °C) at night

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: turn thermostat down to around 70 °F (~21 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

UVB lighting

  • Shadedweller — for nocturnal / crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal form)
  • T5 unit on the ceiling — straight across or diagonal
  • Replace the tube every 12 months as UV output falls
  • Match UV on/off to heat — on in the morning, off in the evening

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Shadedweller on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat

Vivarium lighting: Shadedweller on ceiling and heat dome on warm side Front view of a Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake vivarium. A Shadedweller UV unit sits on the ceiling. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side, about one-quarter from the left. UV and heat follow the same on/off schedule. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. CEILING FLOOR Shadedweller Ceiling T5 · nocturnal form Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (UV HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Shadedweller — ceiling-mounted; snakes may access UV during daylight even when largely nocturnal
  • Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
  • Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
  • Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F in the evening so metabolism can slow

Humidity & water

  • Aim for about 50% day / 70% night — drier species with a night spike
  • Light evening spray, or a wet box with damp moss (saves spraying)
  • They enjoy the wet box any time, especially when in shed
  • Water bowl they can get into; de-chlorinated water (e.g. Reptisafe) or bottled — not straight from the tap
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 80–82 °F (27–28 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most of these snakes.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
Food size
Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Prey size stages

Guide as the snake grows — size relative to girth

Prey Frequency
1 pinkie 2× per week
2 pinkies 2× per week
1 fluff 2× per week
2 fluffs Every 5 days
1 hop Every 5 days
1 small mouse Every 7 days
1 medium mouse Every 7–10 days
1 large mouse Every 10–12 days
1 extra-large mouse Every 14 days

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
  • Replace water daily
  • Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Best for experienced keepers. They like to hiss but do not generally bite — settle and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake need?

Adult minimum is a vivarium 30″ wide × 18″ tall × 18″ deep, or larger (babies start smaller). They are terrestrial — keep enrichment at ground level: rocks, tunnels and fallen branches, artificial foliage, a wet box with damp moss, and a water bowl large enough to get into. Dry substrate with night humidity via wet box or a light evening spray. Heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method (probe halfway down) and Shadedweller UV.

What temperatures does a Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake need?

Set the thermostat probe to 80–82 °F (27–28 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down. That creates a gradient of about 75 °F cool, 84–86 °F middle, 88–90 °F warm, and around 95 °F under the basking bulb. At night turn the thermostat down to around 70 °F (21 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

What humidity do they need?

They are a drier species aiming for about 50% by day and 70% at night. Use a light evening spray, or a wet box with damp moss (they enjoy the wet box any time, especially in shed). Use de-chlorinated water (e.g. Reptisafe) or bottled water.

What UV do they need?

Although nocturnal, use a Shadedweller UV system designed for nocturnal and crepuscular reptiles (terrestrial or arboreal form). A T5 unit mounted on the ceiling works well — straight across or diagonal. Replace the tube every 12 months. Match UV on/off to heat (on morning, off evening).

Are Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snakes venomous?

They are rear-fanged and like to hiss, but do not generally bite. They are best kept by experienced keepers. If you are allergic to bee stings, the sheet suggests choosing a different snake.

How large do they get?

Medium-sized snakes — about 3–4 ft for a large female.

When can I start handling my Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake?

Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Madagascan Cat-Eyed Snake?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about every five days; adults about once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.

Next steps

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