Decor
- Branches for climbing — they are quite active
- 2 or more hides to chill out in
- Artificial foliage — aesthetics and extra cover
- Wet box — hide with solid base + damp moss for shedding
- Decent cool-side water bowl for drinking and bathing
Lizards · Care guide
Legless Lizard Care Guide
Pseudopus apodus
Prefers drier, semi-arid habitats from eastern Europe through the Middle East to western Asia. Diurnal, active, and capable of growing up to about 4.5 ft — they need a roomy 4×2×2 ft vivarium with dry substrate, climbing branches, hides, and a wet box.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
82 °F
28 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~6 °C · about 72 °F / 22 °C
-
Diet
Insects + salads
Dust every feed · method of 5
-
UVB
T5 12%
Ceiling-mounted · replace yearly
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Active legless lizards that can reach about 4.5 ft. They need floor space, climbing branches, two or more hides, a damp wet box for shedding, dry substrate, and the ¼ / ¼ heat and probe layout.
Adult minimum size
48″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H
4 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft minimum — they are active. Pair with a dimming thermostat and T5 12% UV. Adults can grow up to about 4.5 ft.
Substrate
- Dry substrate — pelleted straw bedding or coarser desert sand
- Suits their preference for drier, semi-arid habitats
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 24″) · branches · hides · wet box · foliage · water bowl
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 24″ tall (2:1); depth 24″ — minimum 4 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft
- Branches — climbing furniture for an active species
- Hides — two or more so they can chill out
- Wet box — solid-base hide with damp moss for safer sheds
- Water bowl — decent cool-side dish for drinking and bathing
- Substrate — pelleted straw or coarser desert sand; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down
02 · Climate
Temperature & UVB
Probe control at 82 °F creates a varied cool-to-warm gradient when the ¼ / ¼ layout is followed. T5 12% UVB on the ceiling and a clear day/night cycle complete the climate.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | Cooler |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 82 °F (28 °C) |
| Warm / bask end (hottest point under bulb) | Warmer |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to around 72 °F (22 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for rest
UVB lighting
- Recommended T5 unit with 12% UV output on the ceiling
- Mount straight across or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent)
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to the heat schedule
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 12% UVB on the ceiling (straight or diagonal) · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 12% UV unit — ceiling-mounted (straight or diagonal); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Insects and salads, dusted every feed. Use the method of 5 while learning their appetite; gut-load insects well.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Method
- Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
- Settled
- 10–15 crickets commonly daily · leave out 1–2 days/week as adults
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
- Salads
- Offer plant matter as well as live foods — always dust
Staple insects
Fed regularly once settled
- Crickets
- Locusts
Occasional treats
In moderation only
- Waxworms
- Mealworms
- Morios
Supplements — every feeding
Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.
Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”
New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.
-
Offer 5 insects at a time
-
Wait until you see them consumed before adding more
-
Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries
Adult intake
- 10–15 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
- Leave out feeding 1–2 days per week as adult appetite reduces
- Salads may be offered alongside live foods — dust every time
- Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
- Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment
Water & wet box
- Decent-sized cool-side water bowl for drinking and bathing
- Cool-side placement avoids raising overall enclosure humidity too much
- Wet box — hide with solid base + moss for higher humidity when shedding
- Reptisafe or bottled water only — never untreated tap
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
- Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
- Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
- A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals
Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 10–15 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Legless Lizard need?
Minimum for an active adult is a 4 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft vivarium (48″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H) with a dimming thermostat and a T5 12% UV unit. Provide climbing branches, two or more hides, artificial foliage, a cool-side water bowl, and a damp wet box with moss for shedding. Adults can grow up to about 4.5 ft.
What temperatures does a Legless Lizard need?
Set the daytime thermostat probe to 82 °F (28 °C). Place the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side (halfway front to back) and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down. That spacing creates a varied temperature gradient the animal can choose from. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 72 °F (22 °C). Recommended temperatures only apply with this placement.
When can I start handling my Legless Lizard?
Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Initial sessions should be 10–15 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
What UVB do Legless Lizards need?
A T5 unit with 12% UV output mounted on the ceiling — straight across the top or diagonally (diagonal often gives nice light fall and can place the power unit toward a rear vent). Replace the tube every 12 months because UV output degrades. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What is the method of 5 for feeding?
Offer five insects at a time and wait until you see them eaten before adding more. This reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries. Once settled, it is relatively common for 10–15 crickets to be consumed daily; as adults, leave out one or two days a week as appetite reduces. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Waxworms, mealworms, and morios only in moderation. Salads may also be offered; always dust plant and insect foods.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Legless Lizard?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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