Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) coiled on a branch

Snakes · Care guide

Green Tree Python Care Guide

Morelia viridis

Captivating arboreal pythons known for striking green colour and a sedentary lifestyle on a sturdy horizontal perch. Tall humid vivarium (24″ × 18″ × 36″), probe 80 °F, humidity about 50% day / 70% night, coir and orchid bark, and a rodent diet sized to girth.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    80 °F

    27 °C · cool-end sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~74 °F · ~23 °C

  • Humidity

    50→70%

    Day low · night spike

  • Adult vivarium

    24×18×36

    Tall · W×D×H inches

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

A tall, high-humidity arboreal setup. Adult minimum is 24″ wide × 36″ high × 18″ deep (or more). Coir and orchid bark, a sturdy horizontal perch, artificial plants, and a cool-side water bowl. Wooden or PVC preferred.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H

Tall wooden or quality PVC vivarium (or larger). More height than width. Heat bulb ~¼ from one side; cool-end probe 2–3″ from substrate; sturdy horizontal perch.

Decor

  • Sturdy horizontal branch is essential — they are very sedentary and rarely leave it
  • Extra branches at different heights are optional — the sheet notes they typically will not use them
  • Artificial plants for natural aesthetic appeal
  • Water bowl on the cool side (they rarely drink from bowls, but still provide one)

Substrate

  • Humid retentive mix — coir mixed with orchid bark works well
  • High-humidity species — substrate should hold moisture between sprays
  • Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • Every 4–6 weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 18″) · sturdy horizontal perch · foliage · coir & bark · cool water bowl

Example Green Tree Python vivarium front view at 24 inches wide by 36 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Green Tree Python vivarium at 24 by 36 inch proportions with 18 inch depth. Heat dome on the ceiling about one-quarter from the warm left. One sturdy horizontal perch across the upper third — Green Tree Pythons are sedentary and rarely leave this branch. Artificial foliage for aesthetic cover. Cool-end water bowl on the floor. Humidity-retentive coir mixed with orchid bark. Adult minimum wooden or PVC vivarium 24 by 36 by 18 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 2:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 36″ H CEILING 36″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 36″ Sturdy perch Foliage Water bowl Coir & bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions 24″ wide × 36″ tall (2:3); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Sturdy horizontal perch — primary rest site; very sedentary, rarely leave the branch
  • Foliage — artificial plants for natural aesthetic appeal
  • Water bowl — cool end (rarely drink from bowls; still provide); de-chlorinated water daily
  • Substrate — coir mixed with orchid bark; spray 1–2× daily (night priority)
  • Housing — wooden or quality PVC preferred; glass only if the room stays very warm

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout

Vivarium top-down: heat bulb and thermostat probe positions Rectangular vivarium viewed from above. Heat bulb one-quarter of the way from the left side, halfway between front and back. Thermostat sensor on the cold end opposite the heat, along the back wall, hanging 2 to 3 inches from the substrate. BACK FRONT Heat bulb ¼ from side · mid depth Thermostat probe cool end · back wall 2–3″ from substrate WARM COOL ≈ ¼ cool end

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back

Vivarium front view: heat bulb and thermostat probe heights and side positions Front elevation of the vivarium. Heat bulb sits on the ceiling about one-quarter from the left. Thermostat probe hangs down the back wall on the cool end opposite the heat, with the sensor tip about two to three inches above the substrate. CEILING FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat bulb on ceiling · ≈ ¼ from side 2–3″ Thermostat probe cool end · from vent cover 2–3″ above substrate WARM COOL ≈ ¼ cool end
  • Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
  • Probe — cold end (opposite heat), hanging from the top ventilation cover about 2–3″ from the substrate

02 · Climate

Temperature & humidity

Probe 80 °F on the cool end with a clear cool-to-warm gradient, a sturdy horizontal perch, and a strong night humidity spike — spray 1–2× daily with night priority.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 80 °F (27 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool side ~78 °F (~26 °C)
Probe point (thermostat probe target) 80 °F (27 °C)
Middle 82–84 °F (28–29 °C)
Warm side ~88 °F (~31 °C)
Basking spot ~90 °F (~32 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~74 °F (~23 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 74 °F (~23 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

Heat & housing

  • This sheet focuses on heat and humidity — no specific UV product is listed
  • Higher temperatures — wooden or quality PVC preferred (glass only if the house is very warm)
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer
  • Ask our team if you want advice on optional lighting for your room setup

Climate diagram

Heat & photoperiod

Heat dome on the warm side · day length 12 h winter / up to 16 h summer

Vivarium heat setup: heat dome on warm side and day-length bars Front view of a Green Tree Python vivarium. A heat bulb in a dome sits on the warm side of the ceiling, about one-quarter from the left. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. CEILING FLOOR Heat bulb / dome Warm side · ≈ ¼ from end WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT HOURS) Winter ~12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); probe method on the opposite side
  • Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
  • Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F to about 74 °F (~23 °C) so metabolism can slow
  • Humidity — spray 1–2× daily with night priority (as low as 50% day / 70% night; higher when shedding)

Humidity & water

  • Daytime can be as low as about 50%
  • Night rise to about 70% (higher when shedding) — night spray is the most important
  • Spray 1–2× daily; foggers or spray systems can help
  • Allow slightly drier periods in the day — constant wetness raises bacteria risk
  • Cool-side water bowl; replace daily with de-chlorinated water (e.g. Reptisafe) or bottled water
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 80 °F (27 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most Green Tree Pythons.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week · larger every 2–3 weeks
Food size
Match girth — mouse or rat roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • They rarely drink from water bowls, but still place one on the cool side
  • Replace water daily
  • Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe — not water straight from the tap
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Minimise handling. A suitable environment and watching natural behaviours from a distance is often the best way to enjoy these pythons.

  1. Priority

    Minimise handling

    Keep handling to a minimum. Prefer watching natural perch behaviour from a distance over frequent sessions.

  2. After feeding

    Digest first

    Allow 24–48 hours after a meal before any handling so digestion is not disturbed.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size vivarium does a Green Tree Python need?

Adult minimum is a tall wooden or quality PVC vivarium 24″ wide × 36″ high × 18″ deep, or more. They are arboreal — more height than width. Use coir mixed with orchid bark, a sturdy horizontal perch (they are very sedentary and rarely leave it), artificial plants, and a cool-side water bowl. Heat bulb about one-quarter from one side; cool-end probe 2–3″ from substrate. Glass is only an option if your house stays very warm.

What temperatures does a Green Tree Python need?

Set the thermostat probe to 80 °F (27 °C) by day on the cold end opposite the heat, hanging from the top ventilation cover about 2–3 inches from the substrate. Heat bulb about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back. That creates a gradient of about 78 °F cool, 82–84 °F middle, around 88 °F warm, and generally around 90 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 74 °F (23 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.

What humidity do they need?

Daytime can be as low as about 50%, rising to about 70% at night (higher when shedding). Spray 1–2 times a day with the night spray most important — that night spike matches wild conditions and is what their body and respiratory system need. Foggers or spray systems can help.

Should I handle my Green Tree Python often?

Minimise handling. While some may tolerate occasional gentle handling, it should be kept to a minimum to reduce stress and potential harm. Providing a suitable environment and observing natural behaviours from a distance is often best. Wait 24–48 hours after feeding before any handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Green Tree Python?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about every five days; adults about once a week. Larger individuals can be fed every 2–3 weeks. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (mouse or rat). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.

Do Green Tree Pythons need multi-level branches?

A sturdy horizontal branch is essential — they spend most of their time on it and are very sedentary. Extra branches at different heights for enrichment are nice in theory, but the sheet notes they typically will not use them. Artificial plants can be added for aesthetic appeal.

Next steps

Ready to set up your Green Tree Python?

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