Decor
- Minimum 2 hides — one cool side, one hot side
- Fill the ground with hides, branches and tunnels for security and enrichment
- Artificial plants for natural aesthetic appeal
- Water bowl on the cool side
Snakes · Care guide
Gopher Snake Care Guide
Pituophis catenifer
A North American colubrid that can quickly reach about 3–8 ft. Related species in the same genus include Mexican Pine Snakes and Bull Snakes. Dry vivarium heat with a probe target of 82 °F, Shadedweller Max UV, plenty of hides and enrichment, and a rodent diet sized to girth.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
82 °F
28 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~72 °F · ~22 °C
-
Diet
Rodents
By girth · size stages
-
UVB
Shadedweller Max
Ceiling-mounted UV
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Dry terrestrial snakes that like to hide by day. Give floor cover — hides on both ends, branches and tunnels, artificial plants, dry substrate, and a clear temperature gradient. Adult minimum is 36″–48″ × 18″ × 18″ depending on the species of Gopher Snake.
Adult minimum size
36″–48″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H
Depending on the species of Gopher Snake — wooden vivarium between 36″ and 48″ wide (or larger). Dry setup with heat bulb, Shadedweller Max UV, and cool-side water bowl.
Substrate
- Dry species — pelleted straw bedding or any meant for dryer species
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 36″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · hides · branches · tunnels · foliage · cool water bowl
- Front proportions — 36″ wide × 18″ tall (2:1); depth 18″ — adult minimum (up to 48″ × 18″ × 18″ or larger)
- Branches & tunnels — fill the ground area for security and enrichment
- Hides — minimum two: one cool side, one hot side
- Water bowl — cool side; replace daily with de-chlorinated or bottled water
- Artificial plants — natural aesthetic appeal
- Substrate — dry pelleted straw or other dry-species bedding; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature & UVB
Dry heat with a clear cool-to-warm gradient and Shadedweller Max UV — a dry-species setup rather than high ambient humidity.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~78 °F (~26 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 82 °F (28 °C) |
| Middle | 84–86 °F (29–30 °C) |
| Warm side | 90–95 °F (32–35 °C) |
| Basking spot | ~100 °F (~38 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~72 °F (~22 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake
UVB lighting
- Shadedweller Max — recommended even though snakes are generally nocturnal
- They may access UV in daylight (even while resting with part of the body exposed)
- Mount on the ceiling of the vivarium
- Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
Shadedweller Max on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- Shadedweller Max — ceiling-mounted; snakes may access UV during daylight even when largely nocturnal
- Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
- Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
- Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F in the evening so metabolism can slow
Dry species
- Main enclosure is dry — pelleted straw bedding or any substrate meant for dryer species
- Cool-side water bowl for drinking; replace daily with de-chlorinated or bottled water
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 82 °F (28 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most gopher snakes.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Prey
- Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
- Schedule
- Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
- Food size
- Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
- When
- Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning
Prey size stages
Guide as the snake grows — size relative to girth
| Prey | Frequency |
|---|---|
| 1 pinkie | 2× per week |
| 2 pinkies | 2× per week |
| 1 fluff | 2× per week |
| 2 fluffs | Every 5 days |
| 1 hop | Every 5 days |
| 1 small mouse | Every 7 days |
| 1 medium mouse | Every 7–10 days |
| 1 large mouse | Every 10–12 days |
| 1 extra-large mouse | Every 14 days |
Feeding routine
- Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
- Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
- If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
- Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
- Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime
Water
- Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
- Replace water daily
- Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle
Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.
- Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
- Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
- Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date
Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Remove natural digging behaviour
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Gopher Snake need?
Depending on the species of gopher snake, adult minimum is between 36″ × 18″ × 18″ and 48″ × 18″ × 18″, or larger. They are a dry species — use pelleted straw or other dry-species bedding, provide at least two hides (cool and hot), branches and tunnels for enrichment (fill the ground area for security), artificial plants, and a cool-side water bowl. Use a heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method and Shadedweller Max UV.
What temperatures does a Gopher Snake need?
Set the thermostat probe to 82 °F (28 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 78 °F cool, 84–86 °F middle, 90–95 °F warm, and around 100 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 72 °F (22 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What UV and photoperiod do they need?
Although snakes are generally nocturnal, use a Shadedweller Max UV system — research supports that they may access UV during daylight hours. Mount on the ceiling. Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.
How large do Gopher Snakes get?
They can quickly reach anywhere between about 3 and 8 feet. Related species in the same genus include the Mexican Pine Snake and Bull Snakes.
When can I start handling my Gopher Snake?
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling so digestion is not interrupted. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
How often should I feed a Gopher Snake?
Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about every five days; adults about once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size) — aim for a mouse roughly as thick as the body. Move up a size if a meal leaves no noticeable bulge a few hours after eating. Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.
Next steps
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