Garter Snake (Thamnophis ssp.) in a humid glass tank setup

Snakes · Care guide

Garter Snake Care Guide

Thamnophis ssp.

Small to medium North American colubrids (Thamnophis), usually about 2–3 ft. Glass tank 24″ × 18″ × 18″, cool-end probe 75 °F, humidity 50–70% with a night spike, T5 12% UV on mesh, coir and orchid bark, a large soak bowl, and a rodent diet sized to girth.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    75 °F

    24 °C · cool end

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~65 °F · ~18 °C

  • Humidity

    50–70%

    Night spike · spray 1–2×

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    On mesh lid · diurnal

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Small to medium diurnal colubrids — generally glass or acrylic for their lower heat needs. Fill the ground with hides, branches and tunnels, humidity-retentive coir and orchid bark, and a large cool-side soak bowl. Ideal adult size is 24″ × 18″ × 18″.

Adult ideal size

24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H

Glass or acrylic tank preferred (wooden vivariums also available). Heat dome and T5 12% UV on the mesh lid, coir and orchid bark, and a large cool-side water bowl. About 30 species and many subspecies — ask us for species-specific advice.

Decor

  • Minimum 2 hides — one cool side, one hot side
  • Fill the ground with hides, branches and tunnels — more enrichment means a more secure snake
  • Artificial plants for natural aesthetic appeal
  • Large water bowl — cool side; big enough to soak or swim (lake-edge species)

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive — coir mixed with orchid bark
  • Several humid substrates work — try what suits your setup
  • Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 18″ tall (depth 18″) · mesh lid · hides · branches · tunnels · large soak bowl · coir & bark

Example Garter Snake glass tank front view at 24 inches wide by 18 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Garter Snake glass terrarium at 24 by 18 inch proportions (4:3 front). Heat dome on the mesh lid at the warm back corner, T5 12 percent UV across the mesh lid, climbing branches, hides on warm and cool ends, an open tunnel, artificial foliage, a large cool-end soak bowl, and coir with orchid bark substrate. Depth is 18 inches. Ideal adult glass tank 24 by 18 by 18 inches. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 4:3 24″ W × 18″ D × 18″ H MESH LID 18″ tall 24″ wide · depth 18″ · height 18″ Branches Foliage Hides Tunnel Soak bowl Coir + bark WARM COOL
  • Front proportions — 24″ wide × 18″ tall (4:3); depth 18″ — adult minimum
  • Branches — climbing wood they appreciate for enrichment
  • Hides — a variety of dry hides for seclusion (they dig in the wild)
  • Tunnel — damp moss for occasional retreat and shedding
  • Soak bowl — small dish on the cool end (de-chlorinated water)
  • Substrate — coir and orchid bark (or suitable bio mix); daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe at cool-end back corner

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and cool-end thermostat probe Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests at the cool-end back corner so cool-end temperature can be set to the ideal daytime probe of 78 degrees Fahrenheit. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome Back corner · cold end WARM COOL Cool-end probe ideal: 75 °F (24 °C) day · ~65 °F (18 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; rests at the cool-end back corner to monitor cold-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, humidity & UVB

Cool-end probe 75 °F with a gradient to the basking corner, T5 12% UV on the mesh (diurnal snakes), and humidity 50–70% with a night spike.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 75 °F (24 °C) cool end · opposite heat creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 75 °F (24 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~65 °F (~18 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 65 °F (~18 °C)
  • Day/night definition lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake

UVB lighting

  • T5 12% — sits across the mesh lid (diurnal species need UV)
  • UVA supports appetite and activity; UVB helps vitamin D3 / calcium
  • Replace tubes every 12 months
  • Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — T5 12% UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: T5 12% UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Garter Snake glass terrarium with a mesh lid. The T5 tube with 12 percent UV output sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. A heat dome also sits on top of the mesh at the warm back corner. Daytime heat is about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. UV is essential for this diurnal species; replace tubes every 12 months. FLOOR MESH LID T5 12% UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD · HEAT / UV Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • T5 12% UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Heat photoperiod — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
  • Diurnal · UV essential — T5 12% on the mesh lid; replace tubes every 12 months

Humidity · 50–70%

  • Environmental humidity around 50–70%
  • Day can be as low as 50% (needs to dry out at times) · night rise to over 60%
  • Spray 1–2 times a day — night spray most important (wild night spike supports the respiratory system)
  • Foggers or misting devices can help — do not keep the enclosure constantly wet (bacteria risk); allow adequate ventilation
First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 75 °F (24 °C) for daytime once the heat dome and sensor are in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most hognoses.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Prey
Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
Schedule
Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
Food size
Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
When
Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning

Prey size stages

Guide as the snake grows — size relative to girth

Prey Frequency
1 pinkie 2× per week
2 pinkies 2× per week
1 fluff 2× per week
2 fluffs Every 5 days
1 hop Every 5 days
1 small mouse Every 7 days
1 medium mouse Every 7–10 days
1 large mouse Every 10–12 days
1 extra-large mouse Every 14 days

Feeding routine

  • Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
  • Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
  • If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
  • Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
  • Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime

Water

  • Cool-side bowl for drinking — large enough to soak or swim (lake-edge species)
  • Replace water daily so fresh drinking water is always available
  • Treat spray and bowl water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle

Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.

  • Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
  • Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
  • Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date

Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Remove natural digging behaviour
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)

Questions

FAQ

What size enclosure does a Garter Snake need?

Ideal adult size is a glass or acrylic tank 24″ wide × 18″ high × 18″ deep. Wooden vivariums are also options, but due to low temperature requirements they are generally kept in glass or acrylic. Use coir mixed with orchid bark, at least two hides (cool and hot), fill the ground with hides, branches and tunnels, artificial plants, and a cool-side water bowl large enough to soak or swim. Heat dome on the mesh in a back corner; cool-end probe opposite; T5 12% UV across the mesh lid.

What temperatures does a Garter Snake need?

Place the heat dome on top of the mesh in a back corner and feed the dimming thermostat probe through the opposite lid nodule so it rests at the cool-end back corner. Ideal daytime temperature at the probe point is 75 °F (24 °C), creating a gradient from the cool end to the basking spot under the dome. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 65 °F (18 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer. Recommended temps only apply with this placement.

What humidity and UV do they need?

Environmental humidity around 50–70%. Daytime can be as low as 50% (the enclosure needs to dry out at times); rise to over 60% at night. Spray 1–2 times a day with the night spray most important. Foggers or misting devices can help — do not keep the enclosure constantly wet. They are diurnal, so use a T5 12% UV system sitting across the mesh lid; replace tubes every 12 months.

How large do Garter Snakes get?

Genus Thamnophis — about 30 species and many subspecies. They are generally small to medium colubrids, usually around 2–3 feet. Native to North America and found widely across the continent. Contact the store for species-specific advice.

When can I start handling my Garter Snake?

Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

How often should I feed a Garter Snake?

Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about every five days; adults about once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.

Next steps

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