Decor
- Lots of climbing branches at different levels for heat choice and enrichment
- Upright trunks — they often sit up high when not hunting
- Artificial plants for a natural look
Lizards · Care guide
Frilled Dragon Care Guide
Chlamydosaurus kingii
There are Indonesian and Australian Frilled Dragons — this guide focuses on the Indonesian form (native to New Guinea), which is more commonly kept. They need height, floor space, and high humidity.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
84 °F
29 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~6 °C · about 74 °F / 23 °C
-
Humidity
60% / 80%
Day / night · high humidity
-
UVB
T5 tube
Ceiling-mounted
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Frilled dragons need both height and floor space — a larger area than many regularly kept lizards. They spend much of the day on upright trunks and branches.
Adult minimum size
36″ W × 24″ D × 36″ H
Large vivarium required — or larger. Height and floor space both matter.
Substrate
- Humid-retentive mix — coir + orchid bark recommended
- Several commercial high-humidity options work well
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- Every six weeks: full clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 36″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 24″) · multi-level branches · plants · water bowl
- Front proportions — 36″ wide × 36″ tall (1:1); depth 24″ or larger
- Branches — lots of climbing wood at different levels (they often sit on upright trunks)
- Plants — artificial plants for a natural look and cover
- Water bowl — large enough to drink and bathe; mist droplets on décor also help
- Substrate — humid-retentive mix (coir + orchid bark recommended); daily spot clean, full clean every six weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs ~8″ from substrate
- Heat bulb — about 6–8 inches from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — 6–8 inches from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting roughly 8 inches from the substrate
02 · Climate
Temperature, UVB & humidity
Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, UVB, and a night humidity spike are essential for metabolism and respiratory health.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 84 °F (29 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~80 °F (~27 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 84 °F (29 °C) |
| Middle | 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) |
| Warm side | 90–95 °F (32–35 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | 100–110 °F (38–43 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 74 °F (~23 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 74 °F (~23 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the dragon
UVB lighting
- T5 UV unit mounted on the ceiling
- Fit straight across or diagonally (power unit can sit at a back corner/vent)
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
- UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
Humidity
Daytime can be as low as 60%, rising to about 80% at night. Frilled dragons are a high-humidity species — the night-time spike is what their body and respiratory system need.
- Spray 1–2 times a day — the night spray is the most important
- Spray systems and foggers can help maintain levels
- Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water
Daily humidity cycle
Target ~60% day / ~80% night — the night spike is important.
-
1 · Day
~60%
Daytime can be as low as 60% — not high humidity every hour
-
2 · Mist
1–2× daily
Night spray most important — pump sprayer, fogger, or spray system
-
3 · Night
~80% spike
Raise humidity in the evening for respiratory health
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 UVB on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat schedule
- T5 UV tube — ceiling-mounted (straight or diagonal); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side (6–8″ from end); same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Insects and plant matter. Dust every feed and gut-load insects well.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Method
- Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
- Adults
- 5–10+ crickets per day once settled is relatively common
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal (store airtight)
- Food size
- Never larger than the distance between the eyes (choking risk)
Staple insects
Fed regularly
- Crickets
- Locusts
- Calci Worms
- Mealworms
Occasional treats
In moderation only
- Waxworms
- Morios
- Plant matter (as accepted)
Supplements — every feeding
Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Store the mix in an airtight container and use it to coat food every time you feed.
Feeding new dragons — “method of 5”
New dragons often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases.
-
Offer 5 insects at a time
-
Wait until they are eaten before adding more
-
Prevents dumping large numbers of uneaten insects — reducing stress and insect-related injuries
Adult intake
- Once settled, 5–10 or more crickets per day is relatively common
- Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
- Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment
Water
- Adequately sized water bowl for drinking and bathing
- Droplets from misting on décor and leaves
- Reptisafe or bottled water only — not untreated tap water
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
- Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
- Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
- A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Intermediate keepers that become more docile with regular interaction. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the dragon to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the dragon becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your dragon.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, humidity, UVB, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, humidity, supplementation, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
Questions
FAQ
How often should I mist a Frilled Dragon enclosure?
Spray 1–2 times a day — the night-time spray is the most important. Daytime humidity can be as low as 60%, rising to about 80% at night. The night humidity spike is what occurs in the wild and what their body and respiratory system need. Spray systems and foggers can help. Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water.
When can I start handling my Frilled Dragon?
Allow the dragon to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Frilled dragons are intermediate keepers that become more docile with regular interaction. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
What UVB do Frilled Dragons need?
A T5 UV unit mounted on the ceiling of the vivarium (straight across or diagonally). Replace the tube every 12 months because UV output degrades over time. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule (on in the morning, off in the evening). UVA supports appetite and activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption.
What size vivarium does a Frilled Dragon need?
Adult minimum is 36″ wide × 24″ deep × 36″ tall or larger — they need both height and floor space. Provide lots of climbing branches at different levels, artificial plants, a humid-retentive substrate such as coir and orchid bark, and an adequately sized water bowl for drinking and bathing.
What is the method of 5 for feeding?
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until they are eaten before adding more. This prevents dumping large numbers of uneaten insects, which can stress the dragon and cause insect-related injuries. Once settled, it is relatively common for 5–10 or more crickets to be consumed daily.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Frilled Dragon?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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