Decor
- Sturdy branches at different levels for climbing and resting
- Artificial plants for aesthetics and cover
Lizards · Care guide
Fiji Island Iguana Care Guide
Brachylophus bulabula
Native to tropical wet forests of Fiji. Rarely available but much loved — vivid green hues, extremely placid, and largely vegetarian. They need a tall arboreal vivarium and high humidity.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
82 °F
28 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~6 °C · about 72 °F / 22 °C
-
Humidity
60–70% / 80–90%
Day / night · high humidity
-
UVB
T5 6%
Ceiling-mounted tube
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Fiji Island Iguanas are arboreal — they spend most of their time (and sleep) in trees. Prioritise height as well as floor space.
Adult minimum size
48″ W × 24″ D × 36″ H
Large vivarium required. Start smaller for babies and juveniles.
Substrate
- High-humidity mix — coir + orchid bark recommended
- Many good commercial high-humidity options exist
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- Every 4–6 weeks: full clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 24″) · multi-level branches · plants · water bowl
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 36″ tall (4:3); depth 24″
- Branches — sturdy, at different levels for climbing, resting, and sleeping
- Plants — artificial plants for aesthetics and cover
- Water bowl — large enough to drink and bathe; mist droplets on décor also help
- Substrate — high-humidity mix (coir + orchid bark recommended); daily spot clean, full clean every 4–6 weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature, UVB & humidity
Day/night cycling, a proper gradient, UVB, and steady humidity are essential for metabolism and long-term health.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~80 °F (~27 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 82 °F (28 °C) |
| Middle | 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) |
| Warm side | 90–95 °F (32–35 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | ~100 °F (~38 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the iguana
UVB lighting
- Forest species need a T5 6% UV tube
- Mount on the ceiling of the vivarium
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to heat schedule (morning on, evening off)
- UVA boosts appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
Humidity
Aim for 60–70% by day and 80–90% at night. High humidity is very important for Fiji Island Iguanas, and the night-time spike matters for high-humidity species.
- Mist the whole enclosure well twice daily with a pump sprayer
- Fogger and/or rain systems are also excellent options (some keepers use both)
- They do not need high humidity all the time — allow occasional dry-out during the day
- Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water
Daily humidity cycle
Target 60–70% day / 80–90% night — the night spike is important.
-
1 · Day
60–70%
Allow occasional dry-out — not high humidity every hour of the day
-
2 · Mist
Twice daily
Pump sprayer, fogger, and/or rain system — Reptisafe or bottled water
-
3 · Night
80–90% spike
Raise humidity in the evening — important for high-humidity species
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 6% UVB on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat schedule
- T5 6% UV tube — ceiling-mounted; UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Largely vegetarian with occasional live food (especially as youngsters). Dust every feed and gut-load insects when used.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Method
- Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
- Adults
- 5–10 crickets/locusts per day once settled · leave out 1–2 days per week
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal (store airtight)
- Food size
- Never larger than half the size of the lizard’s head (choking risk)
Insects (when accepted)
Especially youngsters · dust every feed
- Crickets
- Locusts
- Dubia roaches
- Calci Worms
Occasional insects
In moderation only
- Waxworms
- Mealworms
- Morios
Supplements — every feeding
Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Store the mix in an airtight container and use it to coat food every time you feed.
Feeding new iguanas — “method of 5”
New Fiji Island Iguanas often sulk and may not eat well for the first few days. This is perfectly normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases.
-
Offer 5 insects at a time
-
Wait until they are eaten before adding more
-
Prevents dumping 15–20 insects that go uneaten — reducing stress and insect-related injuries
Adult intake
- 5–10 crickets/locusts per day once settled
- Leave out feeding 1–2 days per week as appetite reduces
Water
- Adequately sized water bowl for drinking and bathing
- Droplets from misting on décor and leaves
- Reptisafe or bottled water only — not untreated tap water
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
- Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
- Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
- A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals
Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
Plant matter & Ca:P lists Supermarket, garden plants, and foods to avoid
Fiji Island Iguanas are largely vegetarian — salads, weeds, and herbs are the core of the diet (they will occasionally take live food, especially as youngsters). Use as many listed items as possible and alternate often for calcium-to-phosphorus balance. Naturally growing weeds and herbs are excellent when safe.
Good calcium to low phosphorus (examples)
Apricots, basil, blackberries, bok choy, broccoli tops, cantaloupe, carrots/carrot tops*, chicory, Chinese cabbage, clover, dandelion leaves and flowers, escarole, figs and fig leaves, green onion, leeks, okra, oranges, papaya, parsley, pea pods (not peas), rosemary, sow thistle, turnip greens, watercress, continental lettuces (romaine, cos, frisée, endive, radicchio, lollo rosso), mulberry, grape, ficus, rose, hibiscus, and opuntia cactus leaves. *Carrots/carrot tops not in high concentration (tannins).
Marginal Ca:P
Apple (no pips), aubergine, celery leaf only, pears, radish, sweet potato.
Poor Ca:P / high phosphorus — use sparingly
Asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, grapes, peaches, plums, squash, strawberries, tomato.
Generally exclude (oxalates / goitrogens / similar concerns)
Beans, rhubarb, spinach, beet greens, Swiss chard, cauliflower, cabbage, mustard greens, peas, collard greens, soy meal/beans, banana.
Garden plants often listed as safe
Carnations/dianthus, dracaena, echeveria/succulents, ficus, geranium, grape (Vitis), hibiscus, impatiens, maple leaves, nasturtiums, oregano, petunia, phlox, pinks, rose petals, soleirolia, viola/pansy/violets (not African). Always double-check any plant before offering.
Toxic / avoid
Apple bark/leaves/seeds, burdock, buttercup, cherry, clematis, crocus, daffodil, eggplant, elderberry, holly, horse chestnut, hyacinth, hydrangea, iris, lily of the valley, mistletoe, narcissus, oak, oleander, peach, peony, poinsettia, potato, primrose, privet, rhododendron, shamrock, snowdrop, sorrel, sweet pea, tomato plant, tulip, Virginia creeper — and some rosemary/sage varieties (verify before use).
Always dust plant and insect foods with the 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the iguana to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse. They are renowned for sulking when new — this is normal.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the iguana becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your iguana.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, humidity, UVB, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, humidity, supplementation, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Hold humidity poorly and dry out quickly
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed; insects may contact waste)
Questions
FAQ
How often should I mist a Fiji Island Iguana enclosure?
Mist the enclosure well twice daily with a pump sprayer (or use a fogger/rain system). Aim for 60–70% humidity by day and 80–90% at night — the night-time spike is important for high-humidity species. Allow the enclosure to dry out occasionally during the day. Do not waterlog the substrate. Always use de-chlorinated water (Reptisafe) or bottled water.
When can I start handling my Fiji Island Iguana?
Allow the iguana to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. They are renowned for sulking when stressed — this is normal. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
What UVB do Fiji Island Iguanas need?
As a forest species they need a T5 6% UV tube mounted on the ceiling of the vivarium. Replace it every 12 months because UV output degrades over time. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule (on in the morning, off in the evening).
What size vivarium does a Fiji Island Iguana need?
Adult minimum is 48″ wide × 24″ deep × 36″ tall — tall as well as wide because they are arboreal. Start smaller for babies and juveniles. Use sturdy multi-level branches, artificial plants, and a high-humidity substrate such as coir and orchid bark.
What is the method of 5 for feeding?
Offer five insects at a time and wait until you see them eaten before adding more. This prevents dumping large numbers of uneaten insects, which can stress the animal and cause insect-related injuries. Once settled, adults commonly take 5–10 crickets per day; leave out one or two days a week as appetite reduces. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size should be no larger than half the size of the lizard’s head. They are largely vegetarian but will occasionally take live food, especially as youngsters.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Fiji Island Iguana?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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