Decor
- Terrestrial focus — rocks, tunnels and fallen branches at ground level
- Artificial foliage for cover and a natural look
- Large water bowl — preferably one the snake can get into
- Diurnal and active — entertaining when enrichment is well placed
Snakes · Care guide
False Water Cobra Care Guide
Hydrodynastes gigas
A large diurnal snake from South American rainforests, swamps and marshlands — females to about 8 ft. Adult vivarium 72″ × 36″ × 24″, probe 82–84 °F, high humidity 70/80, T5 6% forest UV, coir and bark, large soak bowl, and a rodent diet sized to girth. Best for experienced keepers.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
82–84 °F
28–29 °C · halfway down
-
Night
~74 °F
~23 °C · evening set
-
Humidity
70% / 80%
Day / night · high humidity
-
UVB
T5 6%
Forest · ceiling mount
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Large, active, diurnal terrestrial snakes. Give ground-level enrichment — rocks, tunnels and fallen branches, artificial foliage, humidity-retentive substrate, a large soak bowl, and a clear temperature gradient. Adult minimum is 72″ × 36″ × 24″.
Adult minimum size
72″ W × 36″ D × 24″ H
Wooden vivarium 72″ wide × 36″ deep × 24″ tall (or larger). Humid setup with heat bulb, T5 6% forest UV on the ceiling, coir and orchid bark, and a large water bowl the snake can enter. Babies start in something smaller.
Substrate
- Humidity-retentive — coir mixed with orchid bark
- Bio soil mixes with coarse reptile sand also work
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 72″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 36″) · ground-level rocks · tunnels · fallen branches · foliage · large soak bowl
- Front proportions — 72″ wide × 24″ tall (3:1); depth 36″ — adult minimum for this large species
- Ground-level enrichment — rocks, tunnels and fallen branches (terrestrial)
- Large soak bowl — preferably one the snake can get into; cool end
- Foliage — artificial plants for cover and aesthetics
- Substrate — coir mixed with orchid bark (or bio mixes); daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks
- Heat + UV — heat dome ~¼ warm side · T5 6% forest on ceiling
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down
02 · Climate
Temperature, humidity & UVB
Clear cool-to-warm gradient, high humidity with a night spike, and T5 6% forest UV — they are one of the few diurnal snake species in the collection.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~76 °F (~24 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) |
| Middle | 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) |
| Warm side | 90–95 °F (32–35 °C) |
| Basking spot | ~110 °F (~43 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~74 °F (~23 °C) at night · thermostat evening set |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: turn thermostat down to around 74 °F (~23 °C)
- Day/night definition lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake
UVB lighting
- T5 6% forest — recommended for this rainforest species
- Diurnal and active — UV is essential equipment
- Mount on the ceiling (straight or diagonal; power unit toward a back vent saves trailing cables)
- Replace tubes after 12 months · match UV on/off to heat photoperiod
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 6% forest on the ceiling · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 6% forest — ceiling-mounted for this diurnal rainforest species; replace tubes after 12 months
- Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); same on/off routine as UV
- Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
- Night — turn thermostat down to around 74 °F (~23 °C) so metabolism can slow
High humidity · 70% day / 80% night
- Aim for 70% by day and 80% at night — the night spike matters for high-humidity species
- Spray the whole enclosure well 2–3 times a day — do not waterlog the substrate (fungus, mould, respiratory risk)
- Foggers and rain systems can help maintain humidity
- Treat all water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle the snake first, then build a steady schedule — new arrivals often will not eat well for the first week.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Prey
- Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
- Schedule
- Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week
- Food size
- Match girth of the snake (not head size) — roughly as thick as the body
- When
- Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning
Feeding routine
- Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
- Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
- If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
- Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
- Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime
Water
- Large soak bowl — preferably one the snake can get into
- Cool end preferred · replace water regularly
- Treat spray and bowl water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle
Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.
- Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
- Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
- Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date
Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Experienced keepers preferred. Rear-fanged but not typically aggressive — settling and regular feeding still come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Remove natural digging behaviour
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a False Water Cobra need?
Adult minimum is a vivarium 72″ wide × 36″ deep × 24″ tall (or larger). Females can reach about 8 ft. Use humidity-retentive coir mixed with orchid bark (or suitable bio mixes), ground-level rocks, tunnels and fallen branches, artificial foliage, and a large water bowl the snake can get into. Heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method (probe halfway down the back) and a ceiling-mounted T5 6% forest UV unit.
What temperatures does a False Water Cobra need?
Set the thermostat probe to 82–84 °F (28–29 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side (halfway front to back) and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down. That creates a gradient of about 76 °F cool, 86–88 °F middle, 90–95 °F warm, and around 110 °F under the basking bulb. At night turn the thermostat down to around 74 °F (23 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What humidity and UV do they need?
Aim for about 70% humidity by day and 80% at night — the night spike is important for high-humidity species. Spray the whole enclosure well 2–3 times a day without waterlogging the substrate (fungus and mould risk). Foggers and rain systems can help. Use de-chlorinated water (e.g. Reptisafe) or bottled water. They are diurnal, so use a T5 6% forest UV unit on the ceiling; replace tubes after 12 months. Match UV on/off to the heat photoperiod.
How large do False Water Cobras get?
They are a large snake; females can reach about 8 ft. Native to tropical rainforests, swamps and marshlands of South America. Rear-fanged and best kept by experienced keepers — not typically aggressive, but not a beginner snake.
When can I start handling my False Water Cobra?
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24 hours after feeding before handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
How often should I feed a False Water Cobra?
Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about every five days; adults about once a week. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (not head size). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.
Next steps
Ready to set up your False Water Cobra?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
More in Snakes
