Decor
- Branches — diurnal and active during the day
- Hides so they can choose where to be
- Artificial foliage for a naturalistic look
- Water bowl on the cool side
Lizards · Care guide
European Eyed Lizard Care Guide
Timon lepidus
Terrestrial and diurnal, native to Spain, Portugal, and parts of Italy and France. Active and generally easy to care for, reaching 16–24″. Ideal housing is a 4 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft vivarium with dry substrate, branches, hides, and a cool-to-warm gradient.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
82 °F
28 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10–12 °F
~6–7 °C · about 72 °F / 22 °C
-
Diet
Insects + plants
Dust every feed · method of 5
-
UVB
T5 12%
Ceiling-mounted · replace yearly
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
Active terrestrial lizards from southern Europe (16–24″). Give branches, hides, dry substrate suited to drier habitats, and a solid temperature gradient with the ¼ / ¼ heat and probe layout.
Ideal vivarium size
48″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H
4 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft, or larger if you wish. Adults reach 16–24″. Branches and hides let them choose where to sit.
Substrate
- Dry substrate — straw pellets, arid earth mix, or coarser desert sand
- Reflects drier native habitat
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 24″) · branches · hides · foliage · water bowl · dry substrate
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 24″ tall (2:1); depth 24″ — ideal 4 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft
- Branches — branches for a diurnal active species
- Hides — so they can choose where to be
- Foliage — artificial plants for a naturalistic look
- Water bowl — cool-side dish; treat water with a de-chlorinator
- Substrate — straw pellets, arid earth mix, or coarser desert sand; daily spot clean, full clean about every six weeks
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature & UVB
Probe control at 82 °F, a cool-to-warm gradient, T5 12% UVB on the ceiling, and a clear day/night cycle.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 82 °F (28 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~78–80 °F (~26–27 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 82 °F (28 °C) |
| Middle | 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) |
| Warm side (hottest point under bulb) | ~90–95 °F (~32–35 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~10–12 °F (~6–7 °C) to approx. 72 °F (~22 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10–12 °F (~6–7 °C) to around 72 °F (22 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard
UVB lighting
- Recommended T5 unit with 12% UV output on the ceiling
- Mount straight across or diagonally (diagonal often places the power unit toward a rear vent)
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on/off to the heat schedule
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 12% UVB on the ceiling (straight or diagonal) · heat dome on the warm side · match UV to heat
- T5 12% UV unit — ceiling-mounted (straight or diagonal); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Insects and plant matter as described in this guide. Dust every feed and gut-load insects well.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Method
- Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
- Adults
- 5–10 crickets often consumed daily once settled
- Dust
- Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
- Food size
- No larger than the distance between the eyes
Staple insects
Fed regularly
- Crickets
- Locusts
- Calci Worms
- Mealworms
Occasional treats
In moderation only
- Waxworms
- Morios
Supplements — every feeding
Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.
Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”
New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.
-
Offer 5 insects at a time
-
Wait until you see them consumed before adding more
-
Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries
Adult intake
- 5–10 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
- Plant matter as part of the overall diet described in this guide
- Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
- Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment
Water
- They drink from water bowls — cool side is easy access
- Moisture also comes from live foods
- Treat all water with a de-chlorinator
Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards eat insects that themselves ate a wide variety of foods — providing complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.
- Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
- Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
- A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals
Hand feeding can help bonding, but excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity. Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment.
Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a European Eyed Lizard need?
An ideal size is 4 ft × 2 ft × 2 ft (48″ W × 24″ D × 24″ H), or larger if you wish. Provide branches and hides so they can choose where to be, plus artificial foliage for a naturalistic look. Adults reach 16–24″ total length.
What temperatures does a European Eyed Lizard need?
Set the thermostat probe to 82 °F (28 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side. That creates a gradient of about 78–80 °F on the cool side, 86–88 °F in the middle, and around 90–95 °F on the warm side. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10–12 °F to around 72 °F (22 °C).
When can I start handling my European Eyed Lizard?
Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling. Initial sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
What UVB do European Eyed Lizards need?
A T5 unit with 12% UV output mounted on the ceiling — straight across the top or diagonally (diagonal often gives nice light fall and can place the power unit toward a rear vent). Replace the tube every 12 months because UV output degrades. Match UV on/off to the heat schedule: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What is the method of 5 for feeding?
Offer five insects at a time and wait until you see them eaten before adding more. This reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries. Once settled, it is relatively common for 5–10 crickets to be consumed daily. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size should be no larger than the distance between the lizard’s eyes. Insects are the staple; plant matter is also part of the diet described in this guide.
Next steps
Ready to set up your European Eyed Lizard?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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