Conehead Lizard among foliage in a humid arboreal setup

Lizards · Care guide

Conehead Lizard Care Guide

Laemanctus longipes

An arboreal lizard endemic to the jungles of Cuba. Adults reach 20–28″ total length including the tail; house them in a minimum 24″ × 18″ × 24″ glass terrarium with branches, moderate humidity, and a cool-end probe target of 78 °F.

At a glance

Quick facts

Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.

  • Daytime probe

    78 °F

    26 °C · cool-end sensor

  • Night drop

    ~10 °F

    ~6 °C · about 68 °F / 20 °C

  • Humidity

    50–60%

    Night spray is the key mist

  • UVB

    T5 12%

    On top of mesh lid

01 · Housing

Enclosure & housing

Arboreal jungle lizards (adults 20–28″ total length). Adult housing starts at 24″ × 18″ × 24″ — prioritise a branch network, foliage for seclusion, humidity-retentive substrate, and correct heat/probe placement for the cool-end gradient.

Adult minimum size

24″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H

For an adult Conehead. Fill the space with a good network of branches and foliage so they can choose basking, cooler, and secluded spots.

Decor

  • Good network of branches for plenty of choice
  • Foliage for a natural look and seclusion
  • Water bowl (cool side is a practical placement)

Substrate

  • Humidity-retentive mix — coir and coarse orchid bark
  • Bio substrates also work well
  • Complete bio setups with live plants and clean-up crew work extremely well

Cleaning

  • Daily: spot clean to keep the environment fresh and limit bacteria
  • About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and terrarium

Housing diagram

Enclosure example

Front view 24″ wide × 24″ tall (depth 18″) · branch network · foliage · water bowl · humidity-retentive substrate

Example Conehead Lizard glass terrarium front view at 24 inches wide by 24 inches tall Front elevation of an adult Conehead Lizard glass terrarium at 24 by 24 inch proportions, with 18 inch depth. Heat dome sits on top of the mesh lid in a warm back corner. A T5 UV unit also sits on top of the mesh lid. A network of climbing branches fills the enclosure, with a vertical branch under the heat leaning about 25 degrees toward the cool side. Foliage offers seclusion. A water bowl sits on the cool-end floor. Substrate is humidity-retentive coir mixed with coarse orchid bark. ADULT MINIMUM · FRONT 1:1 24″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H 24″ wide · depth 18″ 24″ tall Branches Foliage Water bowl Coir + orchid bark WARM / BASK COOL
  • Adult minimum — 24″ W × 18″ D × 24″ H (front 1:1)
  • Branch network — plenty of areas to choose from
  • Foliage — natural look plus seclusion
  • Water bowl — provide treated water for drinking
  • Substrate — humidity-retentive coir + coarse orchid bark; bio setups work well
  • Cleaning — daily spot clean; full clean about every six weeks if kept clean

Setup diagram · 1 of 2

Top-down view

Heat dome in a back corner · probe on the opposite cool end · recommended temps need this layout

Terrarium top-down: heat dome in back corner and cool-end thermostat probe Rectangular glass terrarium viewed from above. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid in the left back corner. Thermostat sensor enters on the opposite side and rests at the back cool corner so the cool-end temperature can be monitored. BACK FRONT Heat dome Back corner · mesh lid Thermostat probe Opposite cool corner via lid nodule WARM COOL

Setup diagram · 2 of 2

Front view

Looking into the terrarium · dome on the mesh lid · probe about 6″ off the substrate

Terrarium front view: heat dome on mesh lid and probe six inches off substrate Front elevation of the glass terrarium. Heat dome sits on the mesh lid toward the warm left back corner. Thermostat probe enters on the cool right side and rests about six inches above the substrate so cool-end temperature can be set to 78 degrees Fahrenheit by day. MESH LID FLOOR / SUBSTRATE back wall (behind) Heat dome Back corner on mesh ≈ 6″ Thermostat probe Cool end · opposite dome ≈ 6″ off substrate WARM COOL Cool-end probe target: 78 °F (26 °C) day · 68 °F (20 °C) night
  • Heat dome — on the mesh lid in a back corner (this guide uses the left-back warm end)
  • Probe — opposite cool end via lid nodule; tip about 6″ off the substrate to monitor cool-end temperature

02 · Climate

Temperature, UVB & humidity

Cool-end probe control, a moderate basking gradient, T5 12% UVB, and 50–60% humidity with a night mist priority.

Daytime temperature gradient

When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 78 °F (26 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.

Daytime temperature gradient by zone, plus night drop
Zone Temperature
Cool end (probe) (thermostat probe target) 78 °F (26 °C)
Mid gradient ~80–85 °F (~27–29 °C)
Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) ~85–90 °F (~29–32 °C)
Night drop Reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 68 °F (~20 °C)

Photoperiod & night

  • Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
  • Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
  • Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to around 68 °F (20 °C)
  • Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the lizard

UVB lighting

  • T5 tube with 12% UV output — sits on top of the mesh lid
  • Mesh-lid setups only — do not mount the UV under the lid
  • Match UV on/off to the heat schedule

Climate diagram

Lighting setup

Glass terrarium mesh lid — T5 12% UVB sits on top of the lid · heat dome on the warm end · match UV to heat

Glass terrarium: T5 12% UV tube sits on top of the mesh lid with heat dome on the warm end Front view of a Conehead Lizard glass terrarium with a mesh lid. The T5 tube with 12 percent UV output sits on top of the mesh lid — never under it. A heat dome also sits on top of the mesh at the warm end. Photoperiod is 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer. FLOOR MESH LID T5 12% UV tube Sits on top of mesh lid Heat bulb / dome On mesh lid · warm corner WARM COOL PHOTOPERIOD (HEAT + UV TOGETHER) Winter 12 h Summer up to 16 h
  • T5 12% UV tube — sits on top of the mesh lid of a glass terrarium (never under the lid)
  • Heat dome — also on top of the mesh lid at the warm back corner; same day/night schedule as UV
  • Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
  • Humidity — about 50–60% RH; night spray is the important mist

Humidity 50–60%

  • Spray manually once or twice daily
  • Night spray is the important one — natural humidity spike timing
  • Foggers or misting machines can be very useful
  • Slightly drier periods during the day are perfectly safe and regular

Daily humidity cycle

Target about 50–60% RH — the night mist is the priority.

  1. 1 · Day

    ~50–60%

    Slightly drier spells are normal — do not chase a constant wet enclosure

  2. 2 · Night spray

    Priority mist

    Evening spray is when they would naturally meet a humidity spike

  3. 3 · Ventilate

    Not always wet

    Constant wet conditions raise bacteria risk — allow drier periods and airflow

First power-up tip

Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the cool-end probe to 78 °F (26 °C) for daytime once equipment is in place.

03 · Nutrition

Diet & feeding

Insects and plant matter as described in this guide. Dust every feed and gut-load insects well.

At a glance

Feeding cheat sheet

Method
Offer 5 insects at a time and wait until eaten before adding more
Adults
5–10 crickets often consumed daily once settled
Dust
Every feeding · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Food size
No larger than the distance between the eyes

Staple insects

Fed regularly

  • Crickets
  • Locusts
  • Calci Worms
  • Mealworms

Occasional treats

In moderation only

  • Waxworms
  • Morios

Supplements — every feeding

Dust every feeding with a 4:1 mix of calcium : Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal). Mix before dusting, then coat the food on every feed.

Feeding new lizards — “method of 5”

New arrivals often will not eat well for the first few days. This is normal. Once settled, appetite usually increases — exact cricket/locust counts vary.

  1. Offer 5 insects at a time

  2. Wait until you see them consumed before adding more

  3. Reduces uneaten insects, stress, and possible insect-related injuries

Adult intake

  • 5–10 crickets commonly consumed daily once settled
  • Plant matter as part of the overall diet described in this guide
  • Hand feeding can help bonding — excessive hand feeding can lead to obesity
  • Hunting and chasing food provide exercise and enrichment

Water

  • They drink from water bowls — cool side is easy access
  • Moisture also comes from live foods
  • Treat all water with a de-chlorinator

Gut-load insects before offering — variety matters for calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) and vitamins.

Why gut loading matters

Feeder insects must be well fed before offering. In the wild, lizards and amphibians scavenge a wide variety of prey that themselves ate varied foods — supplying complete nutrition and a better calcium-to-phosphorus (Ca:P) ratio.

  • Use commercial gut-load foods with quality ingredients
  • Add fresh reptile-safe vegetables for variety
  • A single piece of carrot or potato is not enough — poor Ca:P and limited vitamins/minerals

Speak to a member of staff for more feeding advice.

04 · Behaviour

Handling & behaviour

Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.

  1. Step 1

    Settle first

    Allow the lizard to settle in the new enclosure and begin eating regularly before handling. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.

  2. Step 2

    Short sessions

    Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the lizard becomes more comfortable.

  3. Hygiene

    Wash hands

    Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.

  4. Warning

    No aerosols

    Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm your lizard.

05 · Welfare

Health & welfare

Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UVB, hydration, and supplementation working together.

Best prevention: good husbandry

Correct temperatures, supplementation, hydration, and UVB keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.

Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons

Pros

  • Lower impaction risk

Cons

  • Limit natural behaviours such as digging
  • Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed)

Questions

FAQ

What size terrarium does a Conehead Lizard need?

Adult minimum is a glass terrarium 24″ wide × 18″ deep × 24″ tall. Provide a good network of branches, foliage for seclusion, a cool-side water bowl, humidity-retentive coir and orchid bark, heat and T5 12% UVB on top of the mesh lid, and a cool-end probe about 6″ off the substrate. Adults reach about 20–28″ total length including the tail.

What temperatures does a Conehead Lizard need?

Set the cool-end thermostat probe to 78 °F (26 °C) by day and about 68 °F (20 °C) at night (roughly a 10 °F / 6 °C drop). With the heat dome in a back corner and the probe on the opposite cool end about 6″ off the substrate, you get a gradient from 78 °F up to about 85–90 °F under the basking spot. Recommended temps only apply if dome and sensor are placed this way.

What humidity do Conehead Lizards need?

About 50–60% relative humidity. Spray the enclosure manually once or twice daily — the night-time spray is the important one, matching a natural humidity spike. Foggers or misting systems can help. Do not keep the enclosure wet at all times; slightly drier periods during the day are normal and safer for bacteria control. Allow adequate ventilation.

What UVB do Conehead Lizards need?

A T5 tube with 12% UV output that sits on top of the mesh lid (mesh-lid glass terrariums — do not mount the UV under the lid). Match UV on/off to the heat schedule: 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer.

When can I start handling my Conehead Lizard?

Allow the lizard to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — adapting to a new environment is stressful. Early sessions should be 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.

What is the method of 5 for feeding?

Offer five insects at a time and wait until you see them eaten before adding more. This reduces the chance of over-stocking uneaten insects, which can stress the lizard and cause insect-related injuries. Once settled, it is relatively common for 5–10 crickets to be consumed daily. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal mix. Food size should be no larger than the distance between the lizard’s eyes.

Next steps

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