Decor
- Lots of stable climbing branches at different levels for heat choice and enrichment
- Artificial plants for natural aesthetic appeal
- Water bowl on the cool side
- They spend most of their time up in trees — fill vertical space
Snakes · Care guide
Carpet Python Care Guide
Morelia spilota
Relatively large arboreal pythons endemic to Australia, New Guinea, the Bismarck Archipelago and northern Solomon Islands — about 6–8 ft (some females near 9 ft). Tall humid vivarium, probe 84 °F, multi-level branches, coir and orchid bark, night humidity spike, and a rodent diet sized to girth.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
84 °F
29 °C · thermostat sensor
-
Night drop
~10 °F
~74 °F · ~23 °C
-
Humidity
50→70%
Day low · night spike
-
Adult vivarium
48×24×36
Tall · W×D×H inches
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
A tall, high-humidity arboreal setup. Adult minimum is 48″ wide × 36″ high × 24″ deep (or more). Coir and orchid bark, lots of stable multi-level climbing branches, artificial plants, and a cool-side water bowl.
Adult minimum size
48″ W × 24″ D × 36″ H
Tall vivarium (or larger). More height than width. Heat bulb with ¼/¼ probe method, multi-level branches, and cool-side water bowl.
Substrate
- Humid retentive mix — coir mixed with orchid bark works well
- High-humidity species — substrate should hold moisture between sprays
- Avoid fine mineral sands that can cause impaction
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to limit bacteria and odours
- About every six weeks: full clean if kept relatively clean — replace substrate, disinfect decor and vivarium
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 24″) · multi-level branches · foliage · coir & bark · cool water bowl
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 36″ tall (4:3); depth 24″ — adult minimum or more
- Branches — stable climbing wood at different levels for heat choice and enrichment
- Foliage — artificial plants for cover and aesthetics
- Water bowl — cool end; de-chlorinated water replaced daily
- Substrate — coir mixed with orchid bark; spray 1–2× daily (night priority)
- Arboreal — more height than width; they spend most of their time in the branches
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back, resting a few inches from the floor
02 · Climate
Temperature & humidity
Probe 84 °F with a clear cool-to-warm gradient, tall multi-level branches, and a strong night humidity spike — spray 1–2× daily with night priority.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 84 °F (29 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~78 °F (~26 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 84 °F (29 °C) |
| Middle | 84–88 °F (29–31 °C) |
| Warm side | 90–95 °F (32–35 °C) |
| Basking spot | ~100 °F (~38 °C) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by ~74 °F (~23 °C) at night · ~10 °F drop |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours light/heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: reduce thermostat by ~10 °F (~6 °C) to approx. 74 °F (~23 °C)
- Night drop lets metabolism slow — essential for the snake
Heat & housing
- Focus on heat and humidity for this species — no specific UV product is listed
- Tall setup with more height than width and multi-level climbing branches
- Heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer
- Ask our team if you want advice on optional lighting for your room setup
Climate diagram
Heat & photoperiod
Heat dome on the warm side · day length 12 h winter / up to 16 h summer
- Heat dome — warm side (~¼ from end); probe method on the opposite side
- Day length — about 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer when days are longer
- Night drop — reduce thermostat ~10 °F to about 74 °F so metabolism can slow
- Humidity — spray 1–2× daily with night priority (~50% day / ~70% night)
Humidity & water
- Daytime can be as low as about 50%
- Night rise to about 70% (higher when shedding) — night spray is the most important
- Spray 1–2× daily; foggers or spray systems can help
- Allow slightly drier periods in the day — constant wetness raises bacteria risk
- Cool-side water bowl; replace daily with de-chlorinated water (e.g. Reptisafe) or bottled water
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time. Set the probe to 84 °F (29 °C) for daytime once the heat bulb and sensor are in place.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Rodent feeders sized to girth. Settle first, then build a steady schedule — evening or overnight feeds suit most Carpet Pythons.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Prey
- Frozen prey – always feed thawed prey (rodent feeders)
- Schedule
- Young 2×/week · sub-adults every 5 days · adults 1×/week · larger every 2–3 weeks
- Food size
- Match girth — mouse or rat roughly as thick as the body
- When
- Evening / overnight preferred · allow overnight to eat · remove uneaten by morning
Feeding routine
- Allow the snake to settle before offering food — new arrivals often will not eat well the first week
- Some take food from tweezers; others prefer floor and overnight — give ample overnight time
- If uneaten by morning, throw the mouse away and try again on the next scheduled feed
- Do not offer more frequently than usual — that can stress the snake
- Missing the occasional meal is fine — they do not feed to a strict wild regime
Water
- Drink from water bowls — place one on the cool side
- Replace water daily
- Treat with a de-chlorinator such as Reptisafe, or use bottled water
Shedding & natural fasts When not to feed · breeding · slough cycle
Snakes may naturally refuse food at times — breeding season (males especially can go off feed for many months), and during shed (slough). The shed process can take 1–2 weeks; you may not notice the very beginning.
- Skin looks dull, belly creamy, then eyes go blue — height of shed; they usually will not feed
- Eyes clear and colour looks a little clearer — old skin lifting; about 2–3 days until the actual shed
- Do not feed during this period; wait until you find a shed, then feed on the next due date
Speak to a member of staff if feeding concerns continue after settlement and shed cycles.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Patience first. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — we recommend at least two successful feeds first. Adapting is stressful; early handling can make it worse.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen as the snake becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Always wash or disinfect hands before and after handling to prevent bacteria transfer both ways.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure — the chemicals can harm reptiles.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct husbandry — heat, UV, hydration, and safe substrate working together.
Best prevention: good husbandry
Correct temperatures, hydration, and UV where used keep the immune system and gut working well — supporting essential physiological processes.
Inert substrates Paper, lino, carpet — pros & cons
Pros
- Lower impaction risk
Cons
- Limit natural behaviours such as digging
- Remove natural digging behaviour
- Can increase faecal contamination (waste less absorbed than traditional substrates)
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Carpet Python need?
Adult minimum is a tall vivarium 48″ wide × 36″ high × 24″ deep, or more. They are arboreal — more height than width and high humidity. Use coir mixed with orchid bark, lots of stable multi-level climbing branches, artificial plants, and a cool-side water bowl. Heat bulb with the ¼/¼ probe method.
What temperatures does a Carpet Python need?
Set the thermostat probe to 84 °F (29 °C) by day with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the probe one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back a few inches from the floor. That creates a gradient of about 78 °F cool, 84–88 °F middle, 90–95 °F warm, and around 100 °F under the basking bulb. At night reduce the thermostat by about 10 °F to around 74 °F (23 °C). Daytime heat about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What humidity do they need?
Daytime can be as low as about 50%, rising to about 70% at night. Spray 1–2 times a day with the night spray most important — that night spike matches wild conditions and supports the respiratory system. Spray systems and foggers can help maintain levels.
How large do Carpet Pythons get?
Average length is about 6–8 ft, with some females possibly approaching 9 ft. Plan adult housing and handling for a large, arboreal snake.
When can I start handling my Carpet Python?
Allow the snake to settle and begin eating regularly before handling — at least two successful feeds first. Early sessions 5–10 minutes only; lengthen as they become more comfortable. Wait about 24–48 hours after feeding before handling. Always wash or disinfect hands before and after. No aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
How often should I feed a Carpet Python?
Young snakes twice a week while growing; sub-adults about every five days; adults about once a week. Larger individuals can be fed every 2–3 weeks. Prey size should match the snake’s girth (mouse or rat). Feed in the evening or overnight; remove uneaten food by morning. Do not feed during shed — wait until after the shed is complete.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Carpet Python?
Shop heating, housing and lighting on this site, browse livestock when available, or speak to our team for a tailored kit list.
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