Decor
- Rocks and crevices — they climb sheer faces and squeeze in
- Tunnels, and branches at differing levels
- Artificial foliage, if you want the cover
- Wet box — hide with a solid base and moss, for shedding
- Small water bowl on the cool side
Monitor lizards · Care guide
Pilbara Rock Monitor Care Guide
Varanus pilbarensis
Native from the west coast to the outback of northern Australia, this active rock dweller climbs sheer faces and squeezes into crevices. Plan a dry, very hot vivarium with rocks, tunnels and branches.
At a glance
Quick facts
Key parameters for day-to-day husbandry. Full detail is in the sections below.
-
Daytime probe
86–88 °F
30–31 °C · halfway down the back
-
Night
~74 °F
23 °C · evening set point
-
Humidity
30–40%
Daytime · dry species
-
UVB
T5 12%
Ceiling-mounted tube
01 · Housing
Enclosure & housing
A dry vivarium for a highly active rock dweller. Rocks, crevices, tunnels and branches at differing levels come first. Artificial foliage can be added.
Adult minimum size
48″ W × 24″ D × 36″ H
4 ft × 2 ft × 3 ft high, or larger, for a single adult. Babies can start in something smaller.
Substrate
- Dry mix
- Pelleted straw, a dry bio mix, or a coarser desert sand
- Some keepers mix the sand with the dry bio mix
Cleaning
- Daily: spot clean to keep the enclosure fresh and limit bacteria
- About every six weeks: if kept relatively clean — discard substrate, disinfect décor and the vivarium, add fresh substrate, and return clean, dry décor
Housing diagram
Enclosure example
Front view 48″ wide × 36″ tall (depth 24″) · multi-level branches · rocks & tunnel · wet box · small water bowl
- Front proportions — 48″ wide × 36″ tall (4:3); depth 24″ — or larger
- Branches — climbing wood at differing levels
- Rocks — rock faces and crevices to climb and squeeze into
- Tunnel — arched tunnel for enrichment
- Wet box — hide with solid base and moss for shedding
- Water bowl — small cool-side dish for drinking
- Heat & UV — heat dome warm end · T5 12% on the ceiling
Setup diagram · 1 of 2
Top-down view
Heat bulb & probe left–right positions · Recommended temps need this layout
Setup diagram · 2 of 2
Front view
Looking into the vivarium · bulb on the ceiling · probe hangs down the back
- Heat bulb — about one-quarter from one side, halfway front to back (on / through the ceiling)
- Probe — one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down
02 · Climate
Temperature & UVB
A dry rock setup, a steep gradient, and a very hot basking spot. Daytime humidity 30–40%.
Daytime temperature gradient
When the heat bulb and thermostat sensor are placed as instructed, a probe target of 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) creates this spread. The probe point is not the basking spot.
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Cool side | ~84 °F (~29 °C) |
| Probe point (thermostat probe target) | 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) |
| Middle | 96–98 °F (36–37 °C) |
| Warm side | 110–120 °F (43–49 °C) |
| Basking spot (hottest point under bulb) | ~140 °F+ (~60 °C+) |
| Night drop | Reduce thermostat by turning it down to around 74 °F (23 °C) |
Photoperiod & night
- Winter: about 12 hours of light and heat
- Summer: up to 16 hours when days are longer
- Night: turn the thermostat down to around 74 °F (23 °C)
UVB lighting
- A T5 unit with 12% UV output, mounted on the ceiling
- Straight across, or diagonally so the power unit sits toward a rear outlet or vent
- Replace every 12 months — UV output degrades over time
- Match UV on and off to the heat schedule
Humidity & water
Keep 30–40% humidity during the day. A light morning spray raises it a little and mimics dew. They lick droplets from the rocks.
- Wet box — higher humidity when shedding, to reduce stuck sheds on toes and tail
- Small cool-side water bowl
- Treat water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptishield, or use bottled water — never untreated tap
Climate diagram
Lighting setup
T5 12% UVB on the ceiling · heat on the warm / basking side
- T5 12% UV unit — ceiling-mounted (straight or diagonal); UVA supports appetite & activity; UVB enables vitamin D3 / calcium absorption
- Heat dome — warm side; basking ~140 °F+ (60 °C+); same on/off routine as UV (morning on, evening off)
- Photoperiod — 12 hours in winter, up to 16 hours in summer
- Replace UV every 12 months — output degrades even if the tube still glows
First power-up tip
Always have the thermostat dial turned down before you plug it into the mains for the first time.
03 · Nutrition
Diet & feeding
Insect-led, with pinkies or small mice once or twice a week. Dust every feed and use the method of 5 while settling.
At a glance
Feeding cheat sheet
- Method
- Method of 5 while settling · hunting in the enclosure
- Settled
- Often 10–20 crickets daily
- Adults
- Appetite drops — 1–2 food-free days a week is often needed
- Also
- Pinkies or small mice 1–2× a week — many breeders stress this
- Dust
- Every feed · 4:1 calcium : Nutrobal
Supplements — every feeding
Coat live food or salad with a 4:1 mix of calcium to Nutrobal (4 parts calcium to 1 part Nutrobal) on every feed.
Settling appetite — method of 5
A new monitor may not eat well for the first few days. That is normal. Offer five insects at a time and wait until they are eaten before adding more. Once settled, 10–20 crickets a day is relatively common. Adults often need one or two food-free days each week. Hunting and chasing food is vital. Hand feeding can help bonding; too much can lead to obesity.
Why gut loading matters
Feeder insects need a varied diet before you offer them. A tub with only a piece of carrot or potato is a poor calcium-to-phosphorus balance. Use a commercial gut-load and add fresh vegetables suitable for reptiles. The broader the insects’ diet, the better fed your monitor will be.
04 · Behaviour
Handling & behaviour
Highly active. Time spent with them matters if you want a pet that is comfortable with you. Settling and regular feeding come before handling.
- Step 1
Settle first
Wait until the monitor is eating regularly before you start.
- Step 2
Short sessions
Initial sessions: 5–10 minutes only. Lengthen them as it becomes more comfortable.
- Hygiene
Wash hands
Wash or disinfect hands before and after handling.
- Warning
No aerosols
Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
05 · Welfare
Health & welfare
Prevention starts with correct heat, UVB, hydration and supplementation. Contact the team before changing the setup.
Inert substratesPaper, lino, carpet — pros and cons
They lower impaction risk, but they limit digging and can increase faecal contamination because waste is less absorbed.
Questions
FAQ
What size vivarium does a Pilbara Rock Monitor need?
For a single adult, a minimum of 48″ wide × 24″ deep × 36″ tall (4 × 2 × 3 ft), or larger. They are active rock dwellers, so provide rocks and crevices, tunnels, and branches at differing levels. Babies can start in something smaller.
What temperatures does a Pilbara Rock Monitor need?
Set the thermostat probe to 86–88 °F (30–31 °C) with the heat bulb about one-quarter from one side and the sensor one-quarter from the opposite side, hanging down the back about halfway down. That creates about 84 °F on the cool side, 96–98 °F in the middle, 110–120 °F on the warm side, and a basking spot generally around 140 °F (60 °C) or higher. These monitors like it very hot. At night turn the thermostat down to around 74 °F (23 °C). Use about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What humidity do Pilbara Rock Monitors need?
They are a dry species. Ideally keep 30–40% during the day. A light morning spray raises humidity a little and mimics dew — they lick droplets from the rocks. Add a wet box (a hide with a solid base and moss) so they can reach higher humidity when shedding. Use a small cool-side water bowl. Always treat water with a de-chlorinator such as Reptishield, or use bottled water. Never use untreated tap water.
When can I start handling my Pilbara Rock Monitor?
Let it settle first. Once it is eating regularly, start with sessions of 5–10 minutes and lengthen them as it becomes more comfortable. Time spent with them matters if you want a pet that is comfortable with you. Always wash or disinfect your hands before and after handling. Do not use aerosols or plug-in air fresheners near the enclosure.
What UVB do Pilbara Rock Monitors need?
A T5 unit with 12% UV output, mounted on the ceiling — straight across or diagonally so the power unit sits toward a rear outlet or vent. Replace the tube every 12 months. Switch UV on and off with the heat: about 12 hours in winter and up to 16 hours in summer.
What do Pilbara Rock Monitors eat?
Staples are crickets, locusts, Dubia, and calci worms, plus vegetables — though most will not eat the vegetables. Wax worms, mealworms, and Morios are for moderation. Pinkies, or suitably sized small mice, once or twice a week — many breeders stress how important this is. Dust every feed with a 4:1 calcium to Nutrobal mix. Use the method of 5 while settling. Once eating well, 10–20 crickets a day is relatively common; adults often need one or two food-free days each week.
Next steps
Ready to set up your Pilbara Rock Monitor?
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